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Paris Revealed by Stephen Clarke
In 1868, Worth was instrumental in the creation of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne, and as we all know, once a French syndicat (union) gets involved, nothing will ever change again. Which is why all the Parisian haute couture houses, from Chanel to Dior to Yves Saint Laurent and beyond, have followed the same basic model—create a look, imbue it with Parisian exclusivity, and make people worship you. In short, Charles Worth invented not only haute couture but the whole concept of luxury branding, which has been as much a part of Paris’s appeal for the last century as the legs of its Eiffel Tower and those of its can-can dancers. France has a habit of denying foreigners credit for things they wish they had invented themselves, like the guillotine and the baguette.* Charles Worth, though, is an exception. Today, Paris’s haute couture industry is completely open about its debt to this Englishman.
But are its glory days over? 8 Food For Parisians, food isn’t only about taste—they also have to squeeze, prod and sniff it to make sure it’s fresh. The problem is, they like doing all these things to the food that other people are about to eat. Includes the best food markets in Paris, and how to spot a good or bad restaurant. 9 Fashion Surprisingly, it was an Englishman who created the concept of Parisian haute couture. And even more surprisingly, the Parisians give him credit for it. But why exactly is Paris la capitale de la mode? A designer explains. 10 Cinema The city’s movie career is stage-managed just as efficiently as that of any Hollywood star, and it has an agent who fights to get Paris’s name up on the big screen as often as possible. So what are the essential ingredients for a great Parisian film?
Franklin D. Roosevelt—its Line 9 platforms are like a rundown museum of 1950s design. Its aluminium walls and glass advertising display cases were, half a century ago, the height of avant-garde. These days, the dusty relics are boarded up and ignored by the crowds of commuters. Above ground, things are still trendy—the station’s Line 9 exit takes you to Avenue Montaigne, which is lined with haute couture stores. Porte de Montreuil—at the opposite end of Paris’s social scale, this station is one of the access points for the massive flea market on a Sunday. Ligne 10: Boulogne–Pont de Saint-Cloud–Gare d’Austerlitz A posh people’s line that goes through the Latin Quarter and out into the wilds of the 16th arrondissement, where it is used only by nannies, old ladies and rich schoolkids who haven’t yet been given a Vespa.
Hijacking the Runway: How Celebrities Are Stealing the Spotlight From Fashion Designers by Teri Agins
In Paris, the birthplace of couture, where the government used to rule on which fashion houses could carry the name of haute couture, it was something of a blood sport to diss the top American fashion businesses for being merely “sportswear houses,” as unsubstantial as fast food, lacking creative artistry and true craftsmanship. The French pooh-poohed Calvin Klein for the billions he raked in on designer jeans, fragrance, and underwear; they sneered at Ralph Lauren for being an Anglophile imposter who mined billions on repurposed preppy style. The house of Yves Saint Laurent went so far in 1994 as to sue—and win a French commercial court decision against—Ralph Lauren. YSL cofounder Pierre Bergé charged in WWD that Lauren’s $1,000 sleeveless tuxedo gown copied “line for line, cut for cut” YSL’s $15,000 haute couture sleeveless tuxedo gown—a creation that was protected under French law.
Chapter Thirteen • • • • PARIS WHEN IT FIZZLES Lindsay Lohan and “Tragiqueistan” By the mid-2000s, with reality-show personalities elbowing their way onto the front row in New York’s Fashion Week, big-time American celebrities from stage and screen began to flock to Paris for their fashion-show fix, to see and be seen on the front row at Givenchy, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga without any desperate Housewives mucking up the photo ops. Four times a year, Serious Fashion People converged in Paris in droves for the women’s ready-to-wear collections and the haute couture shows—still relatively untainted by D-listers. The avant-garde designs and unbridled creativity that were the signature of many French labels still created fashion’s loudest, heard-round-the-world buzz. Mounir Moufarrige, the chief executive officer of the rapidly fading house of Emanuel Ungaro, badly needed some buzz. Moved by what had now become an immutable law—it took celebrities to create splash in fashion, the edgier the better—Moufarrige set his sights on the edgiest celeb he could think of, the controversial actress Lindsay Lohan, shamelessly naming her to be “artistic advisor” of the fashion house in 2009.
Ungaro was the archetype of the tortured artist, uniformed in his white lab coat, who sketched, draped, and painstakingly pinned—in perfectly spaced, perpendicular rows—muslin toile fabric in twelve-hour stretches of solitary confinement in his atelier, while the chamber music of Beethoven and Wagner played in the background. He said the creative process was exhilarating but “full of suffering.” He was as old-school as it gets, having apprenticed for six years under Cristóbal Balenciaga, who everybody in fashion agreed was the most celebrated couturier of the twentieth century. Ungaro had one foot in the ivory tower of elite haute couture—made-to-measure handmade clothes for the world’s richest socialites—with his other foot firmly planted in the commerce that paid the bills: the merchandise Ungaro marketed through licensing contracts with manufacturers. Nearly all of Ungaro’s $280 million in annual revenue came from twenty-five licensees in America and Japan that he had nothing to do with. Most American women were familiar with the Ungaro brand only because of Emanuel by Emanuel Ungaro, a successful, midpriced line of women’s apparel designed by GFT, an Italian licensee for American department stores that generated about $170 million in annual wholesale revenue at its peak in the mid-1990s.
Cultureshock Paris by Cultureshock Staff
Chain of sporting equipment stores. Extensive selection of clothes at reasonable prices. 262 CultureShock! Paris SHOPPING Haute Couture Paris is, of course, the capital of haute couture. Haute couture may affect only a few men and women who can afford thousands of euros for a handmade suit or dress; nonetheless, the fashion industry occupies a prominent position in Paris and the world. Paris has always been known for its couturiers—Dior, Chanel, Givenchy, Hermès, Lanvin and Saint Laurent—but is now also feeling the presence of international designers such as the German Jill Sander, the Italian Giorgio Armani, the Japanese Issey Miyake and the Americans Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. The famous Parisian haute couture fashion shows take place in February and July, but unless you are a celebrity, a fashion editor at a prominent magazine or newspaper, or a particularly heavy spender, do not expect to be invited.
Paris were settled into faceless residential suburbs. Fifty years later, these suburbs are openly seething with unrest. Nonetheless, city life after the war began to shine. Intellectuals once again rose to the forefront—Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and Albert Camus frequented the cafés on the Left Bank, foreign writers again found Paris as their muse and the film industry gained prominence worldwide. Haute cuisine and haute couture rose to their greatest heights and Paris became a tourist Mecca once again. Not even the explosive student unrest of 1968 could dent the reputation of Paris; today Paris is the most visited city in the world. Indeed, over the next several decades of the Fifth Republic (1958– ), under presidents from both the Right and the Left, Paris continued to build, restore and modernise. Some streets were widened and the péripherique was built to alleviate the clogging of the roads brought on by the proliferation of cars.
But not today! The old mansions are now occupied by embassies and offices, and the Palais de l’Elysée is the official residence of the president of France. Few of the old gems of apartments still exist, so when the corporate types go home for the evening, the side streets are left empty and dull. Contributing both to the commercialisation and elegance of this eastern edge is the Golden Triangle of the haute couture salons of famous French and international designers, high-class shops of other sorts and some of Paris’ finest purveyors of haute cuisine. Nonetheless, people live here and live very well. Around Place François-1er, tucked quietly toward the Seine and farther west at avenue George-V, graceful buildings house a privileged few—primarily older, wealthy Parisians. The apartments are large and comfortable, but rarely available.
Top 10 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent by Antony Mason
Adrien de Gerlache Pioneer polar explorer (1866–1934) who led the first expedition to overwinter in Antarctica in 1897–99. Jacky Ickx One of the great Formula One racing drivers of the 1960s and 1970s (born 1945). Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker A leading choreographer (born 1960) in the world of contemporary dance. Dries van Noten A celebrated fashion designer (born 1958) who has helped bring Antwerp to the forefront of haute couture. < Top 10 of Everything Festivals and Events Ommegang, Brussels Ommegang, Brussels In Brussels’ most spectacular parade, some 2,000 participants, dressed as Renaissance nobles, guildsmen, mounted soldiers and entertainers, perform an ommegang (tour) in the Grand Place. It’s a tradition said to date back to 1549. First Tue & Thu in July Plantation du Meiboom, Brussels A jolly slice of ancient folklore dating back to 1213.
Biscuits and Pâtisserie It is hard not to drool in front of the ravishing shop windows of Belgian pâtisseries – and the mouth-watering offerings taste as good as they look. An alternative is to buy some of the equally famed biscuits (cookies) – from a specialist like Dandoy. Tapestry Tapestry was one of the great medieval industries of Brussels and Bruges. It is still made on a craft basis, but of course large pieces come at luxury prices. Haute Couture Over the last two decades, Belgium – Antwerp in particular – has shot to the forefront of the fashion world, with designers such as Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten, Raf Simons and Walter Van Bierendonck. Many of the major designers have their own shops in Antwerp (For further details see Shopping around Antwerp), but there are plenty of outlets elsewhere, notably in the Rue Dansaert in Brussels.
Hendrik Conscienceplein 6 03 231 37 51 Open 10am–12:30pm, 2–5pm Mon–Sat; for religious services Sun Centraal Station Architect Louis Delacenserie created this grand Neo-Classical station in 1905. Cogels-Osylei In the late 19th century, this area became a showcase for opulent architecture – extraordinary. Maagdenhuis Quirky museum with some lovely old masters, in an old orphanage. Lange Gasthuisstraat 33 03 223 56 20 Open 10am–5pm Mon, Wed–Fri, 1–5pm Sat–Sun. Closed public hols Adm charge ModeMuseum (MoMu) A museum of haute couture. Nationalestraat 28 03 470 27 70 www.momu.be Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun Adm charge < Around Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Shopping View map Meir The main shopping street is a broad pedestrianized avenue, fronted largely by high-street chain stores. Pelikaanstraat Wall-to-wall diamond and jewellery shops in the Jewish quarter. Fascinating, partly because there’s nothing romantic about it – the gems are commodities like any other.
The Runaway Species: How Human Creativity Remakes the World by David Eagleman, Anthony Brandt
active measures, Ada Lovelace, agricultural Revolution, Albert Einstein, Andrew Wiles, Burning Man, cloud computing, computer age, creative destruction, crowdsourcing, Dava Sobel, delayed gratification, Donald Trump, Douglas Hofstadter, en.wikipedia.org, Frank Gehry, Google Glasses, haute couture, informal economy, interchangeable parts, Isaac Newton, James Dyson, John Harrison: Longitude, John Markoff, lone genius, longitudinal study, Menlo Park, microbiome, Netflix Prize, new economy, New Journalism, pets.com, QWERTY keyboard, Ray Kurzweil, reversible computing, Richard Feynman, risk tolerance, self-driving car, Simon Singh, stem cell, Stephen Hawking, Steve Jobs, Stewart Brand, the scientific method, Watson beat the top human players on Jeopardy!, wikimedia commons, X Prize
., Crusinallo, Italy Toyota FCV plus (No attribution required) Mercedes F 015 (No attribution required) Toyota i-Road Photo by Clément Bucco-Lechat Peugeot Moovie Photo by Brian Clontarf Mercedes Biome car Courtesy of Mercedes Benz Viktor & Rolf haute couture from the Spring-Summer 2016 and Spring-Summer 2015 collections Courtesy of Peter Stigter Pierre Cardin haute couture from the fashion show “Pierre Cardin in Moscow Fashion With Love for Russia.” Fall-Winter 2016/2017 © Strajin | Dreamstime.com – The Fashion Show Pierre Cardin In Moscow Fashion Week With Love For Russia Fall-Winter 2016/2017 Photo Antii Asplund “Heterophobia” haute couture at the Charity Water fashion show at the Salon at Lincoln Center, 2015 © Antonoparin | Dreamstime.com – A Model Walks The Runway During The Charity Water Fashion Predicta television (No attribution necessary) Lowe’s Holoroom Courtesy of Lowe’s Innovation Labs David wearing the NeoSensory Vest Photo by Bret Hartman Skin smoothing laser prototypes Courtesy of Continuum Innovation Office, 1937 (No attribution required) Cubicle farm Ian Collins An office in London Phil Whitehouse RCA advertisement “Radio & Television” (magazine) Vol.
For now, the Biome car exists only on the computer: Mercedes has no plans to develop it. The goal of a concept car is not to be the next car. Instead, the idea is to focus on a far-reaching possibility. It allows one to refine the next step by examining what lies on the distant horizon – whether or not society ever goes in that direction. The Mercedes-Benz Biome car The same thing happens in haute couture, where fashion is stretched into the future. Haute couture by Pierre Cardin Antii Asplund Viktor Rolf No one is expected to wear this avant-garde clothing – not now, and maybe not ever. But the act of flying far from the hive refines one’s view of the possible. As the artist Philip Guston remarked, “Human consciousness moves but it is not a leap: it is one inch. One inch is a small jump but that jump is everything.
Scott ref1 flag series ref1 Flag (Johns, 1967) ref1 Flag (Johns, 1972) ref1 Flag (Moratorium) (Johns) ref1 Flatlands (1970) (Guston) ref1 Flea Theater (New York) ref1 flexibility ref1, ref2, ref3 cognitive ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4 companies ref1 flight ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6 Floating Heads (Cave) ref1 Foer, Jonathan Safran ref1 Ford, Henry ref1, ref2 Ford Edsel ref1 Ford Motor Company ref1 The Founding Mothers (Eagleman) ref1 frangible masts ref1 Frankenstein (Shelley) ref1 Franklin, Benjamin ref1 Frazier, Bud ref1, ref2 Freckles (spider-goat) ref1 French Art Academy ref1 “funnel of ideas” ref1, ref2 futevolei ref1 future ref1, ref2 car industry ref1 predictions ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5 simulating outcomes ref1 what-ifs ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6, ref7 “Future of Parenting” ref1 Gagaku (music) ref1 Gajasimha ref1 Ganesh, Chitra ref1 Gardner, John ref1 Gauguin, Paul ref1, ref2, ref3 GBO Innovation Maker ref1 Gehry, Frank ref1 General Electric ref1 General Mills ref1 General Relativity, Theory of ref1 gene-sequencing ref1 Gertner, Jon ref1 Giacometti, Alberto ref1, ref2, ref3 Gnomeo and Juliet (animated film) ref1 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von ref1 Google ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6 Google Glass ref1 Google Translate ref1 Gordiner, Jeff ref1 Graham, Martha ref1 The Grasshopper Lies Heavy (The Man in the High Castle) (Dick) ref1 Green, Barrett ref1 Gregorian calendar ref1, ref2 Grendel (Gardner) ref1 Greyhound Bus Lines ref1 Grosse Fuge (Beethoven) ref1, ref2 Groundhog Day (film) ref1, ref2 Guerin, Amy ref1 Guernica (Picasso) ref1 Guston, Philip ref1, ref2 Guy Fawkes ref1 Guys and Dolls (musical) ref1 H-4 “Sea Watch” ref1 habit ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5 Hack Week (Twitter) ref1 hairstyles ref1 Hamlet (Shakespeare) ref1, ref2 Harrison, John ref1 Haute couture ref1, ref2, ref3 Haydn, Joseph ref1 health crisis ref1 hearts, artificial ref1 Heisenberg, Werner ref1 Hellman, Lillian ref1 Hemingway, Ernest ref1, ref2, ref3 Hendrix, Jimi ref1 Hermès ref1, ref2 Hewlett-Packard ref1 high definition (HD) video ref1 high dynamic range (HDR) photography ref1 “Hills Like White Elephants” (short story) (Hemingway) ref1 Hilversum ref1 histories, alternate ref1 history, mining ref1 art ref1 design ref1 literature ref1 music ref1 H.O.
Frommer's Paris 2013 by Kate van Der Boogert
Airbnb, airport security, British Empire, Chuck Templeton: OpenTable:, clean water, eurozone crisis, haute couture, Honoré de Balzac, housing crisis, music of the spheres, place-making, starchitect, sustainable-tourism, urban renewal
Neighborhoods in Brief The Right Bank Les Halles, Louvre & Palais Royal (1er & 2e) Home to some of Paris’s most important historical sites, the area around the Louvre and Palais-Royal is one of the most visited (but least residential) parts of the city. Whether you’re strolling through the Jardin des Tuileries or admiring the classic beauty of the place Vendôme, this is one of the most elegant neighborhoods in the city. It’s also one of the most luxurious, with designer boutiques filling the arcades of the Palais-Royal and haute couture lining the sidewalks of the rue St-Honoré. Rue de Rivoli, the main artery running through the 1st arrondissement, is one of the busiest streets in Paris, full of shops, cafes, and restaurants. For a little peace and quiet, head south for a walk along the banks of the Seine or take refuge in the gardens of the Palais-Royal. The view of the Louvre from the Jardin des Tuileries. © Nicholas MacInnes North of the Palais-Royal is the Bourse (stock exchange).
Champs-Élysées & Western Paris (8e, 16e & 17e) One of the most famous avenues in the world, the tree-lined avenue des Champs-Élysées is the embodiment of Parisian grandeur. While strolling along the Champs-Élysées may be something of a disappointment thanks to the fast-food restaurants, overpriced cafes, and chain stores, leading off to the south are avenue George V and avenue Montaigne, home to haute couture boutiques and several of Paris’s most luxurious hotels. The Champs-Élysées continues to be a rallying point for parades and festivities, and there’s a popular Christmas market here in winter. You’ll find similar levels of wealth and grandeur in the 16th arrondissement, which is full of embassies, diplomats, and exclusive residences. Fans of Art Nouveau will enjoy walking around the 16th as it was here that Hector Guimard built nearly all of his buildings, the most famous of which is Castel Béranger.
Here you’ll find three of Paris’s most famous cafes, all within a few meters of one another. Known as The Golden Triangle, the Brasserie Lipp, Les Deux Magots, and Café de Flore were frequented by the likes of Hemingway and Picasso in the 1920s, and Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir in the 1950s. However, the neighborhood has lost a lot of its intellectual appeal in the last few decades and nowadays, you’ll find more haute couture (Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, and more) than highbrow culture. Despite being one of the smaller arrondissements (in terms of both surface area and population) you can find a little of everything in St-Germain. It’s home to two of the city’s most famous churches, Eglise-St-Germain-des-Prés and St-Sulpice, as well as the Institut de France and former mint, the Hôtel des Monnaies. There’s art, thanks to the Ecole des Beaux Arts on rue Bonaparte, and you’ll find an abundance of art dealers and small, private galleries on the nearby streets.
The Words You Should Know to Sound Smart: 1200 Essential Words Every Sophisticated Person Should Be Able to Use by Bobbi Bly
Albert Einstein, Alistair Cooke, Anton Chekhov, British Empire, Columbine, Donald Trump, George Santayana, haute couture, Honoré de Balzac, Joan Didion, John Nash: game theory, Network effects, placebo effect, Ralph Waldo Emerson, school vouchers, Stephen Hawking, Steve Jobs
–William Butler Yeats, Irish poet and dramatist haughty (HAW-tee), adjective Snobbish and arrogant. “The HAUGHTY sommelier, with his talismanic tasting cup and sometimes irritating self-assurance, is perceived more as the high priest of some arcane rite than as a dining room functionary paid to help you enjoy the evening.” – Frank J. Prial, former New York Times wine columnist haute couture (OAT-koo-TOOR), noun Highly fashionable clothing on the cutting edge of the latest design fads and trends. “HAUTE COUTURE should be fun, foolish, and almost unwearable.” – Christian Lacroix, French fashion designer haut monde (oh-MAHND), noun High society. “The literary wiseacres prognosticate in many languages, as they have throughout so many centuries, setting the stage for new HAUT MONDE in letters and making up the public’s mind.” – Fannie Hurst, American novelist hearsay (HEER-say), noun Information gathered from another that is not part of one’s direct knowledge.
Thomas’s STOLID demeanor hides the heart of a jet-setting playboy. stringent (STRIHN-juhnt), adjective Rigorous, strict, severe. “No laws, however STRINGENT, can make the idle industrious, the thriftless provident, or the drunken sober.” – Samuel Smiles, Scottish author and reformer strophe (STROF), noun A stanza containing lines that do not conform to the type, style, or form of the poem in which they appear. Those not wearing haute couture stick out at our gatherings like STROPHES stick out in short poems. stultify (STUHL-tuh-fie), verb To cause to appear foolish or ridiculous. The out-of-date chapeau absolutely STULTIFIED Heather’s otherwise immaculate couture. stygian (STY-gee-an), adjective Eerily quiet, so dark as to be almost pitch black. “STAND close around, ye STYGIAN set, / With Dirce in one boat convey’d! / Or Charon, seeing, may forget / That he is old and she a shade” – Walter Savage Landor, British writer and poet subjugation (sub-jih-GAY-shun), noun The process of making someone your inferior and requiring them to take orders from you.
Frommer's Irreverent Guide to Las Vegas by Mary Herczog, Jordan S. Simon
(127) • Thumbs up from the galleries (128) •Rev your motors (129) • For your viewing pleasure (129) • Away from the Strip (130) • Head for the lake (131) • Par for the course (131) • Rockin’ it (134) • Parking it (134) Maps Map 10 Las Vegas Diversions 108 The Index 135 An A to Z list of diversions, with vital statistics 4 CA S I N O S 142 Basic Stuff 144 The Rules & the Odds 145 Gambling terms 146 Getting Comped 147 The Lowdown 148 Friendliest pit staff (148) • Cheekiest waitress costumes (149) • For nickel-and-dimers (150) • Casinos Royale (151) • Most witty theme (151) • Old-style flavor (152) • Over the top (even by Vegas standards) (152) • Don’t live up to their billing (153) • Worth leaving the Strip to see (154) • High-roller havens (155) • Best bets (156) The Index 157 An A to Z list of places to gamble, with vital statistics 5 SHOPPING 162 Basic Stuff 165 Target Zones 165 Bargain Hunting 168 Hours of Business 169 The Lowdown 169 Best for kids (169) • Tackiest tchotchkes (170) • Souvenirs with panache (170) • Campier than thou (171) • For collectors (171) • Books and record deals (172) • Retro-fitting (172) • Haute couture (172) • Clubbier wear (172) • To beautify your home (173) • Forbidden delights (173) Maps Map 11 Las Vegas Shopping Districts 164 The Index 174 An A to Z list of places to shop, with vital statistics 6 NIGHTLIFE 178 Basic Stuff 181 Sources 182 What It Will Cost 182 Liquor Laws & Drinking Hours 183 Drugs 183 The Lowdown 183 Big throbbing dance clubs (183) • Dancing cheek to chic (185) • Ultratrendy ultra-lounges (185) • Best people-watching (186) • Drinks with a theme (186) • Class lounge acts (188) • Tit-illations (188) • Sin is in (190) • See-and-be-scenes (190) • Vintage Vegas (191) • Love shacks (191) • Where to get intimate (192) • Rainbow nights (192) • Wildest decor (193) • Rooms with a view (193) • True brew (194) • Martini madness (194) • Cocktail culture (195) • Country roots (196) • Sports bars (196) • Frat parties (196) • Where locals hang out (197) • Cigars, cigarettes (197) • The piano man (198) • Singing a blues streak (198) • Where to hear local bands (198) Maps Map 12 Map 13 Map 14 Map 15 Las Vegas Nightlife 180 Strip Nightlife 199 Nightlife East of Strip 200 Nightlife West of Strip 201 The Index 202 An A to Z list of nightspots, with vital statistics 7 E N T E R TA I N M E N T 210 Basic Stuff 213 Sources 214 Getting Tickets 215 The Lowdown 216 What money does for the imagination (216) • And the Liberace award goes to (217) • The bare necessities (218) • Where the boys aren’t (219) • Presto!
In the late ’90s, Las Vegas casino-hotels were suddenly struck with a desire for “class,” like a retired madam who madly redecorates in an effort to win over her former clients’ wives. The prime class-monger is Steve Wynn, whose swan song as CEO of Mirage Resorts was the surface-exquisite Lake Como–style palazzo Bellagio. Highly refined (at least by Las Vegas standards), it strives to offer the best of the best, or at least the best that money can buy: world-renowned chefs/restaurateurs, haute couture shops, a spa offering no less than eight facials, the ACCOMMODATIONS casino-hotels, emphasis on the casino), seem more expensive on the surface, but have much less in the way of hidden costs—at other properties, you pay extra for health club access and other goodies, which add up fast. While there are still bargains on the Strip itself (especially on weekdays), many people on a budget prefer to stay Downtown, where you can hit 15 casinos in a four-block radius.
Valentino’s caters to the Swing Era revival, with everything from 1920s rhinestone anklets to 1940s zoot suits. For the ultimate in retro bijoux, scope out Tiffany’s and Gucci’s Via Bellagio neighbor, Fred K. Leighton, renowned for estate and antique jewelry, including items from the Duchess of Windsor’s collection and Art Deco masterpieces from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. At Buffalo Exchange you can find funky ’70s stuff like tan suede leisure suits and red platform shoes. Haute couture... The Armani boutique at Via Bellagio displays clothing fetishistically for maximum impact. Hunt down tiny Ice in the Forum Shops for one-of-a-kind delights from the owner’s various international forays— silver, shawls, sweaters, and hand-painted silk and cutvelvet scarves. Also in the Forum Shops you’ll find Shauna Stein, which sells hot looks from Oldham to Valentino, and the over-the-top sequined and beaded bags of Judith Leiber.
The Rough Guide to Toronto by Helen Lovekin, Phil Lee
airport security, British Empire, car-free, glass ceiling, global village, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, haute cuisine, indoor plumbing, Jane Jacobs, joint-stock company, Khyber Pass, Kickstarter, Marshall McLuhan, megacity, place-making, urban renewal, urban sprawl
Courage My Love 14 Kensington Ave, at Dundas St W, Downtown T416/979-1992. Streetcar: Dundas (#505). Vintage clothing for men and women augmented with an eclectic selection of beads, amulets and buttons. The clientele ranges from high-school girls looking for funky prom dresses to fashion-magazine editors looking for cheap chic. The most venerable of the Kensington Market schmatta shops. | Clothing Designer/haute couture Who Lunch, Chanel offers dependable excellence at astronomical prices. I-cii 99 Yorkville Ave, at Bellair St, Uptown T416/925-3380. Subway: Bay. A gallery-like space that displays clothes as if they were sculptures. Regulars really know their stuff and appreciate the selection of Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe and Undercover. Prada 131 Bloor St W, at Bay St, Uptown T416/513-0400. Subway: Bay.
Fashion-forward local houses that have earned widespread success include Damzels in This Dress (Wwww.damzelsinthisdress.com) and House of Spy (Wwww.houseofspy.com), both found in various stores throughout the city, as well as Pink Tartan (Wwww.pinktartan .com), on sale at Holt Renfrew. 197 S HO P S A N D G A L L E R I E S Divine Decadence Originals 136 Cumberland Ave, 2nd ﬂoor, at Avenue Rd, Uptown T416/3249759. Subway: Bay (Cumberland exit). With its museum-quality accesories and stunning collection of vintage haute couture (Chanel from the 1930s; Dior from the ’50s; Pucci from the ’60s), it’s no wonder this store is a local favourite. Gadabout 1300 Queen St E, at Leslie St, Downtown T 416/463-1254. Streetcar: Queen (#501). Top-quality vintage, including linens, shoes, hats and jewellery, with an emphasis on items from the 1950s to the ’80s. An excellent source for beaded cashmere sweaters and leather gloves in perfect condition.
Get Outside 437 Queen St W, Downtown T416/593-5598. Streetcar: King (#504). At the very sharp point of cutting edge, this ’tween-to-teen emporium has shoes, clothes and accessories for today’s youth. Arguably the best place in town for items by Paul Frank and Emily the Strange, with recent additions of Dish and Second Company. Stay tuned for future trends. Jacadi 87 Avenue Rd, Uptown T416/923-1717. Subway: Bay. The Toronto branch of the haute couture Parisian chain, this is onestop shopping if you want your child to look like a character from the Madeline books. The clothes are very well made, very bon chic bon genre, and very expensive. Kol Kid 670 Queen St W, at Palmerston Ave, Downtown T416/681-0368. Streetcar: Queen (#501). This collection of clothing, books, toys and children’s accoutrements are almost as much for parents’ nostalgia about childhood as they are for the children themselves.
Lonely Planet Florence & Tuscany by Lonely Planet, Virginia Maxwell, Nicola Williams
Palazzo Pitti’s 2nd-floor Galleria d’Arte Moderna MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun summer, shorter hr winter) curates 18th- and 19th-century works. The work of the Florentine Macchiaioli school (the local equivalent of Impressionism) dominates the collection. Few visitors get as far as the Galleria del Costume MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 8.15am-6.50pm summer, shorter hr rest of yr, closed 1st & last Mon of month), a parade of fashions from the times of Cosimo I to the haute-couture 1990s. Giardino di Boboli GARDEN MAP GOOGLE MAP (Boboli Gardens; Piazza Pitti; adult/reduced/child €7/3.50/free; 8.15am-7pm summer, shorter hr winter) Behind Palazzo Pitti, the Boboli Gardens laid out in the mid-16th century to a design by architect Niccolò Pericoli are a prime example of a formal Tuscan garden and they are lovely to wander. At the upper, southern limit, beyond the box-hedged rose garden and Museo delle Porcellane MAP GOOGLE MAP (Porcelain Museum; Giardino di Boboli; adult/reduced €7/3.50 incl Giardino di Boboli, Museo delgi Argenti & Museo del Costume; Mar 8.15am-5.30pm, Apr-May & Sep-Oct 8.15am-6.30pm, Jun-Aug 8.15am-7.30pm, Nov-Feb 8.15am-4.30pm), fantastic views over the Florentine countryside fan out.
Giardino Bardini GARDEN MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.bardinipeyron.it; entrances at Via de’ Bardi 1r & Costa di San Giorgio 2; adult/reduced/child €7/3.50/free; 8.15am-7pm summer, shorter hr winter) This garden was named after art collector Stefano Bardini (1836–1922), who bought the villa in 1913 and restored its medieval garden. Smaller and more manicured than the Boboli, it has all the features of a quintessential Tuscan garden, but not the crowds. Inside the villa, the Museo Roberto Capucci MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.bardinipeyron.it; Giardini Bardini; adult/reduced €8/6; 10am-9pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct) hosts a collection of Capucci -designed haute couture and temporary exhibitions. A springtime stroll past artificial grottos, an orangery, marble statues and fountains is idyllic. Beds of azaleas, peonies and wisteria bloom in April and May, irises in June. The romantic summer cafe (open from 10am to 6pm April to September), set in a stone loggia overlooking the Florentine skyline, is a wonderful spot for a panino lunch, ice cream or afternoon tea.
Grevi HATS MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.grevi.com; Via della Spada 11-13r; 10am-2pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat) It was a hat made by Siena milliner Grevi that actress Cher wore in the film Tea with Mussolini; ditto Maggie Smith in My House in Umbria (2003). So if you want to shop like a star for a hat by Grevi, this hopelessly romantic boutique is the address. Hats range in price from €30 to unaffordable for many. Vintage di Antonini Alessandra FASHION MAP GOOGLE MAP (Piazza Piero Calamandrei; 3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-1.15pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat) For Real McCoy haute-couture pieces – Chanel handbags, strappy 1970s Dior sandals – look no further than this stylish boutique off via delle Seggiole. Alessandro Gherardeschi FASHION MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.alessandrogherardeschi.com; Via della Vigna Nuova 97r; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Distinctive men’s and women’s shirts and blouses, short- and long-sleeved, in dozens of designs – floral, cupcakes, vintage cars, all sorts! – is what this colourful little designer boutique near the river sells.
Only Americans Burn in Hell by Jarett Kobek
AltaVista, coherent worldview, corporate governance, crony capitalism, Donald Trump, East Village, ghettoisation, Google Chrome, haute couture, illegal immigration, indoor plumbing, Jeff Bezos, mandelbrot fractal, MITM: man-in-the-middle, pre–internet, sexual politics, Skype, Snapchat, Steve Jobs, Telecommunications Act of 1996
“We have little choice,” said Celia. “We shall follow each until we find the one that brings us to Fern.” Two practical matters arose. Celia pointed out that their clothes, the haute couture of Fairy Land, were going to attract attention. She cast a spell. Celia wasn’t well versed enough in contemporary American fashion to pick clothes, so she let the magic do the work of a personal stylist. The magic made the women look like recent transplants to Echo Park, which was a traditionally Latino neighborhood that had gentrified into a fashionable enclave of upscale dining and high-level annoyance. The women’s fur-clad haute couture transformed into designer denim, vintage metal T-shirts, Balenciaga sneakers, and Marni handbags. Rose Byrne’s T-shirt said: EMPEROR. Celia’s T-shirt said: SAVATAGE. Neither of the women knew it, but the magic had failed in its job as a personal stylist.
Then Diana kills Ares, who turns out to be an Englishman in a bowler hat, which is probably the only realistic thing in the entire film, and then the war ends and everyone is happy because Diana has committed genocide against the right people at the right time and there’s no way that the roman numeral at the end of World War One could possibly predicate a sequel. At least the genocide simulator of Wonder Woman gave some people at the Vista an opportunity to dress in goofy costumes. And it was those costumes that brought Celia and Rose Byrne to the premiere. The magic bullshit window had chosen well. Celia and Rose Byrne were clothed in Fairy Land’s haute couture, which over the last season had moved into animal pelts. Had they arrived anywhere else in Los Angeles, their outfits would have drawn a lot of attention. At Wonder Woman, they were just making a political statement. They arrived through the magic bullshit faery window, popping dead center into the lobby of the Vista, right in front of the concessions counter. They saw a lot of people going into the twin double doors of the theater.
The Big Book of Words You Should Know: Over 3,000 Words Every Person Should Be Able to Use (And a Few That You Probably Shouldn't) by David Olsen, Michelle Bevilacqua, Justin Cord Hayes
fin de siecle (fahn-day-say-ECK-luh), adjective This French expression meaning “end of the century” typically refers to the fashions, art, ideas, etc. associated with the end of the nineteenth century, but in general use, the expression describes ideas, art, fashions, etc. considered modern and up-to-date. Martin prides himself on always being aware of FIN DE SIECLE philosophies, especially those that come from Europe. haute couture (OAT kyoo-CHOOR), noun High fashion. Haute couture is the most stylish and influential way of designing clothes at a given time. (Haute couture also refers to articles of clothing currently considered of the highest style.) Unfamiliar with the ways of HAUTE COUTURE, Wendell decided to pass up the fashion show. haute cuisine (oat kwi-ZEEN), noun Gourmet preparation of food. Haute cuisine can also refer to the preparation of meals as an art form. Glenn knows more than we do about HAUTE CUISINE; let’s let him pick the restaurant tonight.
Speculative Everything: Design, Fiction, and Social Dreaming by Anthony Dunne, Fiona Raby
3D printing, augmented reality, autonomous vehicles, Berlin Wall, Buckminster Fuller, Cass Sunstein, computer age, corporate governance, David Attenborough, en.wikipedia.org, Fall of the Berlin Wall, game design, global village, Google X / Alphabet X, haute couture, life extension, Mark Zuckerberg, mouse model, New Urbanism, Peter Eisenman, RAND corporation, Richard Thaler, Ronald Reagan, self-driving car, Silicon Valley, social software, technoutopianism, Wall-E
In Facestate (2011) Metahaven use the kind of strategic thinking usually applied to commercial corporate identity projects to critique the political implications of blurring boundaries between consumerism and citizenship, especially when social software is embraced by governments in the name of improved transparency and interaction. Metahaven, Facestate, 2011. Photograph by Gene Pittman. Photograph courtesy of Walker Art Center. In fashion it ranges from one-off haute couture pieces for the catwalk to mass-produced diffusion lines for sale in high street shops. In the 1960s, inspired by the space age, designers such as Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin, and Pacco Rabanne disregarded practicalities to explore ideas about the future using new forms, production processes, and materials. In the 1980s, Katherine Hamnett made protest t-shirts fashionable with her infamous slogan t-shirts such as "NUCLEAR BAN NOW," "PRESERVE THE RAINFORESTS," "SAVE THE WORLD," and "EDUCATION NOT MISSILES."
Yet designers participate in the generation and maintenance of all sorts of fictions, from feature-heavy electronic devices meeting the imaginary needs of imaginary users, to the creation of fantasy brand worlds referenced through products, their content, and their use. Designers today are expert fictioneers in denial. Although there have always been design speculations (e.g., car shows, future visions, haute couture fashions shows), design has become so absorbed in industry, so familiar with the dreams of industry, that it is almost impossible to dream its own dreams, let alone social ones. We are interested in liberating this story making (not storytelling) potential, this dreammaterializing ability, from purely commercial applications and redirecting it toward more social ends that address the citizen rather than the consumer or perhaps both at the same time.
Lonely Planet Pocket Florence (Travel Guide) by Planet, Lonely, Maxwell, Virginia, Williams, Nicola
The cafe hosts everything from readings and interviews with authors – Florentine, Italian and international – to film screenings, debates, live music and art exhibitions. Its funky interior has vintage chairs and table tops built from recycled window frames. In summer everything spills onto the wonderful brick courtyard. Check upcoming events online. Shopping 21 Vintage di Antonini Alessandra Fashion Offline map Google map For real-McCoy haute-couture pieces – Chanel handbags, strappy 1970s Dior sandals – look no further than this stylish boutique off Via delle Seggiole. (Piazza Piero Calamandrei; 3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-1.15pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat) Scuola del Cuoio GMFIRENZE/ALAMY © 22 Mercato dei Pulci Antiques Offline map Google map While prices are much higher than the name implies (mercato dei pulci means flea market), this outdoor market is nevertheless still worth a gander for patient pickers keen to bring home a piece of Old Tuscany.
Today, Florentines are equally enamoured of design and artisanship and go out of their way to source quality goods. Most are also happy to pay what’s required (usually a considerable amount) to fare la bella figura (cut a fine figure). Fashion Florentines take great pride in their dress and appearance, which is not surprising given that the Italian fashion industry was born here. Guccio Gucci and Salvatore Farragamo got the haute- couture ball rolling in the 1920s, and the first Italian prêt-à-porter show was staged here in 1951. Via de’Tornabuoni and its surrounding streets – especially Via della Vigna Nuova, Via della Spada and Borgo SS Apostoli – are the city’s fashion epicentre, home to upmarket designers from Italy and abroad. Some up-and-coming designers are also here, although high rents mean that they are more likely to be located in the Oltrano and Santa Croce.
Fodor's Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North With Paris by Fodor's
call centre, car-free, glass ceiling, happiness index / gross national happiness, haute couture, haute cuisine, Henri Poincaré, Kickstarter, Murano, Venice glass, Nelson Mandela, urban planning, young professional
Nonvintage Vintage Champagne is named for a specific year, on the premise that the grapes harvested in that year were of extraordinary quality to produce a Champagne by themselves without being blended with wine from other years. Cuvées de Prestige are the finest and most expensive Champagnes that a firm has to offer. What You’ll Pay Champagne relentlessly markets itself as a luxury product—the sippable equivalent of perfume and haute couture—so it’s no surprise that two of the top Champagne brands, Krug and Dom Pérignon, are owned by a luxury goods conglomerate (Louis Vuitton-Moët Hennessy). Sure, at small local producers, or in giant French hypermarkets, you can find a bottle of nonvintage bubbly for $15. But it’s more likely to be nearer $40 and, if you fancy something special—say a bottle of vintage Dom Perignon Rose—be prepared to fork out $350.
Thanks to its stunning nighttime illumination, topped by four 6,000-watt projectors creating a lighthouse beacon visible for 80 km (50 mi) around, it continues to make Paris live up to its moniker La Ville Lumière—the City of Light. Water is the second highlight here: fountains playing beneath Place du Trocadéro and boat tours along the Seine on a Bateau Mouche. Museums are the third; the area around Trocadéro is full of them. Style is the fourth, and not just because the buildings here are overwhelmingly elegant—but because this is also the center of haute couture, with the top names in fashion all congregated around Avenue Montaigne, only a brief walk from the Champs-Élysées, to the north. Top Attractions from the Eiffel Tower to the Arc de Triomphe Arc de Triomphe. Set on Place Charles-de-Gaulle—known to Parisians as L’Étoile, or the Star (a reference to the streets that fan out from it)—the colossal, 164-foot Arc de Triomphe arch was planned by Napoléon but not finished until 1836, 20 years after the end of his rule.
You can find everything you’ll need for a picnic as well as gifts to bring home to your favorite foodie. If you’re here in the morning, Le Mouffetard Café (No. 116) is a good place to stop for breakfast (for about €8). For one of the best baguettes in Paris detour to the nearby Boulanger de Monge, which includes a scrumptious selection of organic offerings, at 123 rue Monge. Note that most of the shops are closed on Monday. Quick Bites: Cafés all over sell this haute couture brand of ice cream, but the headquarters of Berthillon (31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, Ile St-Louis | 75004 | 01–43–54–31–61) is the place to come for this amazing treat. It features more than 30 flavors that change with the seasons, including scrumptious chocolat au nougat and mouth-puckering cassis (black currant). Expect to wait in line. The shop and adjacent tea salon is open Wednesday to Sunday 10–8 but closed during the peak summer season, from July 20 to September 1.
Fodor's Dordogne & the Best of Southwest France With Paris by Fodor's Travel Publications Inc.
Thanks to its stunning nighttime illumination, topped by four 6,000-watt projectors creating a lighthouse beacon visible for 80 km (50 mi) around, it continues to make Paris live up to its moniker La Ville Lumière—the City of Light. Water is the second highlight here: fountains playing beneath Place du Trocadéro and boat tours along the Seine on a Bateau Mouche. Museums are the third; the area around Trocadéro is full of them. Style is the fourth, and not just because the buildings here are overwhelmingly elegant—but because this is also the center of haute couture, with the top names in fashion all congregated around Avenue Montaigne, only a brief walk from the Champs-Élysées, to the north. TOP ATTRACTIONS FROM THE EIFFEL TOWER TO THE ARC DE TRIOMPHE Arc de Triomphe. Set on Place Charles-de-Gaulle—known to Parisians as L’Étoile, or the Star (a reference to the streets that fan out from it)—the colossal, 164-foot Arc de Triomphe arch was planned by Napoléon but not finished until 1836, 20 years after the end of his rule.
You can find everything you’ll need for a picnic as well as gifts to bring home to your favorite foodie. If you’re here in the morning, Le Mouffetard Café (No. 116) is a good place to stop for breakfast (for about €8). For one of the best baguettes in Paris detour to the nearby Boulanger de Monge, which includes a scrumptious selection of organic offerings, at 123 rue Monge. Note that most of the shops are closed on Monday. QUICK BITES: Cafés all over sell this haute couture brand of ice cream, but the headquarters of Berthillon (31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile,Ile St-Louis | 75004 | 01–43–54–31–61) is the place to come for this amazing treat. It features more than 30 flavors that change with the seasons, including scrumptious chocolat au nougat and mouth-puckering cassis (black currant). Expect to wait in line. The shop and adjacent tea salon is open Wednesday to Sunday 10–8 but closed during the peak summer season, from July 20 to September 1.
The basement has a water bar and a small restaurant that’s good for a quick bite. Jean-Paul Gaultier (44 av. George V,Champs-Élysées,8e | 01–44–43–00–44 | Station: George V | 6 Galerie Vivienne,Opéra/Grands Boulevards,2e | 75002 | 01–42–86–05–05 | Station: Bourse) first made headlines with his celebrated corset with the ironic i-conic breasts for Madonna, but now sends fashion editors into ecstasy with his sumptuous haute-couture creations. Designer Philippe Starck spun an Alice in Wonderland fantasy for the boutiques, with quilted cream walls and Murano mirrors. GIFTS FOR THE HOME Maison de Baccarat (11 pl. des États-Unis,Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel, 16e | 75016 | 01–40–22–11–00 | Station: Trocadéro) was once the home of Marie-Laure de Noailles, known as the Countess of Bizarre; now it’s a museum and crystal store of the famed manufacturer.
Eyewitness Top 10 Los Angeles by Catherine Gerber
It’s fun peeking at the clothes, home furnishings, beauty products, and exercise gear favored by fashionistas. d Map C3 • Between 7th & 17th Sts, Santa Monica Boulevard £ Robertson Price tags are steep at the boutiques on this ultra-cool twoblock stretch, but you may be browsing next to celebrities such as Cameron Diaz or Jennifer Aniston. Part of the mix are cutting-edge LA designers. d Map L5 • Between 3rd St & Beverly Blvd shopping street (see p114) is a must. All the big names in haute couture have staked out their turf on Rodeo, including Armani, Chanel, Ralph Lauren, and Versace. For better prices, walk one block east to Beverly Drive. Avenue % Melrose Melrose puts the “fun” into “funky” (see p104 & p108). Tattooed 20-somethings pick up vintage clothing, eccentric clubwear, and jewelry in stores between La Brea Boulevard and Fairfax Avenue. West of Fairfax is a newer designer enclave and farther west, the Paciﬁc Design Center (see p103) is more about trendy home furnishings.
It’s been featured in movies and on the cover of the Eagles’ Hotel California album. And stars still come – Elton John celebrated his 55th birthday here in 2002. d Map J4 • 9641 Sunset Blvd • 310-2762251 • www.beverlyhillshotel.com Drive @ Rodeo Rodeo Drive (see p52 & p114) is one of the world’s most famous – and expensive – shopping streets, synonymous with a lifestyle of luxury and fame. Only three blocks long, it is essentially an haute couture runway, with all the major international players represented. Most people alive today have grown up watching television, one of the deﬁning media of the 20th century. This center, housed in a striking building by Getty Center architect Richard Meier, was originally built to collect, preserve, and share nearly 80 years of radio and TV history. About 120,000 programs – news to musicals, sports to sitcoms – have been catalogued and are available for viewing and listening.
Fodor's Rome: With the Best City Walks and Scenic Day Trips by Fodor's Travel Publications Inc.
call centre, Donald Trump, glass ceiling, haute couture, haute cuisine, Honoré de Balzac, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, low cost airline, Mason jar, mega-rich, Murano, Venice glass, starchitect, urban planning, young professional
Pros: flat-screen TVs with satellite TV; doesn’t have the feel of a budget hotel; discount if you pay cash; great value. Cons: rooms are small; no individual climate control or refrigerators in the rooms. | Rooms from: €140 | Via Magenta 15, Termini | 00185 | 06/44363836 | www.yeshotelrome.com | 29 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast. VENETO, BORGHESE, AND SPAGNA Though the glamorous days of dolce vita, when celebs and paparazzi packed the famed Via Veneto, are long gone, this area still houses haute couture shops—Gucci, Prada, Fendi—and loads of fine restaurants and luxury lodgings. It’s the absolute best place to do some serious shopping, and its dining scene and street caffè make for great people-watching. The American Embassy is here and so is the Hard Rock Café, and it’s convenient to Villa Borghese, the Spanish Steps, and Rome’s Metro stop—Barberini is at the bottom of the uphill-winding (and rather steep) street.
Rome has been setting fashion trends since the days of the Caesars, so it’s little wonder that this is the city that gave us the Gucci “moccasin” loafer, the Fendi bag, and the Valentino dress Jackie O wore when she became Mrs. Onassis. While the famous double-Gs can now be found in boutiques around the world, the mother store is right here on Via Condotti, a “shopping mall” lined with Bulgari diamonds and Pratesi linens. A stroll along this concentrated corridor is as great for people-watching as it is for Italian haute couture and prêt-à-porter. The shops can be as intimidating as they are strikingly beautiful, but plastic is the universal equalizer so go ahead and indulge your inner celebrity. BEST TIME TO GO Visitors with a sumptuous sense of bella figura will want to time their retail therapy for just after lunch Tuesday through Friday afternoons or during the evening passeggiata when Via Condotti becomes one gigantic catwalk.
Whether you are looking for a wedding dress or a seductive bustier, you are bound to find something unconventional here. Designer and owner Patriza Pieroni creates many of the pieces on display, all cleverly cut and decidedly captivating. | Via del Pellegrino 172 | 00186 | 06/6880242 | www.patriziapieroni.it. Le Tartarughe. Designer Susanna Liso, a Rome native, adds suggestive elements of playful experimentation to her haute couture and ready-to-wear lines, which are much loved by Rome’s aristocracy and intelligentsia. With intense and enveloping designs, she mixes raw silks or cashmere and fine merino wool together to form captivating garments that are a mix of seduction and linear form. Le Tartarughe can be found at two locations close to the Pantheon. | Via Piè di Marmo 17 | 00186 | 06/6792240 | www.letartarughe.eu. Maga Morgana.
Plutocrats: The Rise of the New Global Super-Rich and the Fall of Everyone Else by Chrystia Freeland
activist fund / activist shareholder / activist investor, Albert Einstein, algorithmic trading, assortative mating, banking crisis, barriers to entry, Basel III, battle of ideas, Bernie Madoff, Big bang: deregulation of the City of London, Black Swan, Boris Johnson, Branko Milanovic, Bretton Woods, BRICs, business climate, call centre, carried interest, Cass Sunstein, Clayton Christensen, collapse of Lehman Brothers, commoditize, conceptual framework, corporate governance, creative destruction, credit crunch, Credit Default Swap, crony capitalism, Deng Xiaoping, disruptive innovation, don't be evil, double helix, energy security, estate planning, experimental subject, financial deregulation, financial innovation, Flash crash, Frank Gehry, Gini coefficient, global village, Goldman Sachs: Vampire Squid, Gordon Gekko, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, high net worth, income inequality, invention of the steam engine, job automation, John Markoff, joint-stock company, Joseph Schumpeter, knowledge economy, knowledge worker, liberation theology, light touch regulation, linear programming, London Whale, low skilled workers, manufacturing employment, Mark Zuckerberg, Martin Wolf, Mikhail Gorbachev, Moneyball by Michael Lewis explains big data, NetJets, new economy, Occupy movement, open economy, Peter Thiel, place-making, plutocrats, Plutocrats, Plutonomy: Buying Luxury, Explaining Global Imbalances, postindustrial economy, Potemkin village, profit motive, purchasing power parity, race to the bottom, rent-seeking, Rod Stewart played at Stephen Schwarzman birthday party, Ronald Reagan, self-driving car, short selling, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, Simon Kuznets, Solar eclipse in 1919, sovereign wealth fund, starchitect, stem cell, Steve Jobs, the new new thing, The Spirit Level, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, Tony Hsieh, too big to fail, trade route, trickle-down economics, Tyler Cowen: Great Stagnation, wage slave, Washington Consensus, winner-take-all economy, zero-sum game
He saw an opportunity to expand the business by sewing clothes for his clients, not just selling them fabrics. Worth persuaded his initially hesitant employers to back his idea, and they opened a small dressmaking department. It became increasingly profitable, and Worth was made a partner in the firm. That success emboldened him to set up his own venture in 1858, financed by Otto Gustav Bobergh, a Swedish investor. Before long Worth had created a new superstar profession—haute couture—and become its first practitioner. Worth sewed his label into his dresses. Rather than sewing clothes created by his clients, he invented modern fashion design by presenting his own styles four times a year, then custom producing them for his clients. Worth was an avid adopter of technology. The first reliable sewing machine was patented in Boston by Isaac Singer in 1851, seven years before Worth opened his dressmaking shop, and his seamstresses used sewing machines wherever that was quicker and more efficient than stitching by hand.
Billington’s earnings were limited by the number of people who could hear her perform in person, the six thousand to seven thousand gowns the House of Worth produced a year were each tailored to the body of a specific client. — But just as Charlie Chaplin’s superstardom dwarfed Elizabeth Billington’s since he could perform for the masses, fashion designers became exponentially richer when they expanded from the haute couture business to prêt-à-porter. That revolution happened in 1966, when Yves Saint Laurent opened his first Rive Gauche ready-to-wear store on the rue de Tournon in the sixth arrondissement of Paris, less than two miles away from the original home of Worth and Bobergh, where Charles Worth had gone into business just over a century earlier. It took the couturiers a long time to reap the benefits of mass production.
Many of Saint Laurent’s fellow elite couturiers were horrified. Emanuel Ungaro wrote that the opening of Rive Gauche saddened him greatly. Pierre Cardin, who had experimented with, then abandoned his own foray into, ready-to-wear a year earlier, warned that by leveling and standardizing, we are going to fabricate a world where “we will die of boredom.” Before long, however, it became clear that by producing both an haute couture line and a prêt-à-porter line—offering very costly personal service to the super-rich, and using technology to scale their talent—the fashion designers at the very height of their profession could benefit from both Marshall and Rosen effects. In 1975, Yves Saint Laurent earned $25 million, a hundred times what Charles Worth earned at the peak of his career (when taking inflation into account).
The Cloudspotter's Guide by Gavin Pretor-Pinney
In this way, they develop a narrow central shaft with a wide hexagonal plate at the end, known as a ‘capped column’. It is not uncommon for a plate to develop at both ends of the central shaft, so that it now looks as if the clumsy seamstress has dropped her spools, as well as her needles. The glittering secrets of ice-cloud fashion: from the finest ‘ice needles’ to the spool-shaped ‘capped columns’; from the classic haute couture of ‘stellar dendrites’ to the more street look of ‘rime’ deposits. The speed at which a cloud’s crystals grow depends on the temperature and humidity of the surrounding air, and appears to be the crucial factor in determining their shape. The faster they grow, the more complex and intricate their forms. As anyone in fashion knows, the secret of style is in combinations. As crystals fall through very different regions of air, they can take on combined forms, such as plates, columns or stellar dendrites with additional dendrite branches sprouting from them at strange angles.
When ice finds its way to the ground and falls as snow, it will have passed through many different temperatures and humidities on the way down, and will frequently have played its part in several cloud formations as it did so. No wonder, then, that snow is often in the form of a tangle of individual crystals, generally referred to as ‘snowflakes’. The shape of crystals becomes less regular as they fall through clouds of liquid droplets, which tend to freeze on to them as ‘rime’, roughening their sides or making them fur up, like the element of a kettle. It is more of a street look, compared with the timeless haute couture of elevated, pure crystals. Despite the stunning range of crystal forms, there is one theme that keeps appearing season after season –the number six. The arms of the stellar dendrites and the sectored plates, the edges of the hexagonal plates, the sides of the columns…when it comes to ice crystals, six, rather than three, is the magic number. This is due to the shape of water molecules, which determines that as they join to form crystals, they do so in a lattice formation of hexagons –a molecular honeycomb.
Branded Beauty by Mark Tungate
augmented reality, Berlin Wall, call centre, corporate social responsibility, double helix, East Village, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Frank Gehry, haute couture, invention of the printing press, joint-stock company, liberal capitalism, placebo effect, Ray Kurzweil, Silicon Valley, stem cell
Chanel’s global CEO, Maureen Chiquet, said in a statement: ‘His larger-than-life personality, immense talents and unique vision have defined Chanel as the ultimate house of luxury, with an unparalleled global presence… He succeeded in bringing Chanel into the 21st century as a leader in the world of exclusivity.’ This might have somewhat wounded Karl Lagerfeld, designer of the brand’s fashion collections. But as Coco discovered when she emerged from her Swiss redoubt, the fashion industry is fuelled by fragrances. It’s no coincidence that, during the brand’s fall/winter 2009 haute couture show, the models stalking the runway were overshadowed by towering replicas of the Chanel No. 5 bottle. A FANTASY IN A BOTTLE Yves Saint Laurent knew all about the importance of fragrances to the fashion industry. The designer’s blockbuster ‘oriental’ scent Opium transformed the fortunes of his house; by its 30th anniversary in 1992 the company was earning more than 80 per cent of its income from fragrances and cosmetics.
That’s why beauty products continue to sell during a recession. Consumers are not addicted to the result, but to the feeling. Imagining the opulent spa or the brave eco-scientist hacking his way through a tropical rainforest is part of that experience. Still, it’s worth bearing in mind that the main ingredient of most skincare products – from the cheapest to the most expensive – is water. BEAUTY TIPS • Haute couture fashion brands were quick to move into perfume and make-up, establishing a legitimacy in the beauty sector. • They followed up with creams as their consumers turned to combating wrinkles rather than simply hiding them. • They invested in research departments in order to compete with the likes of P&G and L’Oréal. • Research into ‘active ingredients’ drives the stories that are used to sell creams
Barcelona by Damien Simonis
Berlin Wall, call centre, carbon footprint, Fall of the Berlin Wall, feminist movement, Frank Gehry, haute couture, haute cuisine, Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), Kickstarter, land reform, Murano, Venice glass, New Urbanism, North Sea oil, sustainable-tourism, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl
While they sometimes have interesting programming, the most important local stations, such as the Catalan government’s TV-3 and Canal 33, push an almost constant Catalanist line. Documentaries on the civil war, the horrors of the Franco period and so forth abound, while investigative journalism on some of the dodgier sides of Catalan government since 1980 are noticeable by their absence. Return to beginning of chapter FASHION For years, Barcelona and Madrid ran competing haute couture shows but the end came in 2006 when the Generalitat pulled the plug on funding. Alternative shows were staged in 2007, but by 2008 it was all over. The shows may come and go, but Barcelona teems with its own designers. Names range from the ebullient Custo Barcelona to the international prêt-a-porter phenomenon of Mango. Based outside the city in the Vallès area, it has more than 900 stores throughout the world (in locations as far-flung as Vietnam and London’s Oxford St), and has come a long way since opening its first store on Passeig de Gràcia in 1984.
Barcelona is a style city and this is evident in its flagship design stores, such as Vinçon and Cubiña, whether you are looking for homewares, gifts or decoration. Even the souvenirs have flair. Fashion, in the broadest possible sense, occupies a sizable wedge of the city’s retail space. Local names such as Mango, Custo Barcelona, Antonio Miró and Purificación García jostle side by side with big Spanish names in haute couture and prêt-à-porter (such as Zara and Adolfo Domínguez). Almost every taste is catered to, with loads of youthful designers, club and street wear, grunge dealers and secondhand operators. For high fashion, design, jewellery and department stores, the principal shopping axis starts on Plaça de Catalunya, proceeds up Passeig de Gràcia and turns left into Avinguda Diagonal, along which it extends as far as Plaça de la Reina Maria Cristina.
Encompassing anything from regal party gowns to kids’ outfits (that might have you thinking of British aristocracy), the broad range generally oozes a conservative air, with elegant cuts that make no concessions to rebellious urban ideals. Return to beginning of chapter ANTONIO MIRÓ Map Fashion 93 487 06 70; www.antoniomiro.es, in Spanish; Carrer del Consell de Cent 349; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; Passeig de Gràcia Antonio Miró is one of Barcelona’s haute couture kings. The entrance to the airy store, with dark hardwood floor, seems more like a hip hotel reception. Miró concentrates on light, natural fibres to produce smart, unpretentious men’s and women’s fashion. High-end evening dresses and shimmering, smart suits lead the way. Or you could just settle for an Antonio Miró T-shirt. Return to beginning of chapter ARMAND BASI Map Fashion 93 215 14 21; www.armandbasi.com; Passeig de Gràcia 49; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; Passeig de Gràcia Local design star Basi appeals to a thirties and forties crowd with a slick line in casual elegance.
Florence & Tuscany by Lonely Planet
Bonfire of the Vanities, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, European colonialism, haute couture, Kickstarter, period drama, post-work, sensible shoes, Skype, trade route, urban planning
Few visitors get as far as the Galleria del Costume (Costume Gallery; 8.15am-7.30pm Jun-Aug, shorter hr rest year, closed 1st & last Mon of month) , thus missing its absolutely fascinating, if somewhat macabre, display of the semidecomposed burial clothes of Cosimo I, his wife Eleonora di Toledo and their son Don Garzia. Considering their age and the fact that they were buried for centuries, Eleanora’s gown and silk stockings are remarkably preserved, as are Cosimo’s satin doublet and wool breeches and Garzia’s doublet, beret and short cape. In contrast, the sculptural 1990s haute couture pieces by Maurizio Galante look as if they’ve just been created – they’re guaranteed to impress. Giardino di Boboli PALACE GARDEN ( Piazza Pitti; 8.15am-sunset) Behind Palazzo Pitti, the Boboli Gardens laid out in the mid-16th century according to a design by architect Niccolò Pericoli are a prime example of a formal Tuscan garden and they are great fun to get lost in: skip along the Cypress Alley ; let the imagination rip with a gallant frolic in the walled Giardino del Cavaliere (Knights’ Garden); dance around 170-odd statues; meditate next to the Isoletto , a gorgeous ornamental pool; discover birdsong and species in the garden along the signposted nature trail ; or watch Venere (Venus) by Giambologna rise from the waves in the Grotta del Buontalenti ( guided visits hourly 11am-6pm Jun-Sep, to 5pm Mar, May & Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb) , a fanciful grotto designed by the eponymous artist.
A springtime stroll is an extra-special joy when its azaleas, peonies, wisteria (all April and May) and irises (June) are in bloom. Its somewhat idyllic, summer cafe terrace , set in a stone loggia overlooking the Florentine skyline, is a wonderful spot for a panino lunch, ice cream or afternoon tea. Inside the villa, the Museo Bardini (www.bardinipeyron.it, in Italian; adult/reduced €6/4; 10am-6pm Wed-Sun Apr-Sep, to 4pm Wed-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar) hosts a collection of Roberto Capucci–designed haute couture and temporary exhibitions. Casa Guidi MUSEUM ( 055 28 43 93; www.browningsociety.org; Piazza San Felice 8; admission free; 3-6pm Mon, Wed & Fri Apr-Nov) It was here, on the ground floor of 15th-century Palazzo Guidi, across from the south wing of Palazzo Pitti, that Robert and Elizabeth Browning rented an apartment in 1847, a year after their marriage. Robert wrote Men and Women in the apartment they called home for 14 years and poetess Elizabeth both gave birth to their only child here and died here.
Published first on Flickr, the award-winning title pioneered the term ‘flicktion’ . A sense of style is vital to Tuscans, who take great pride in their dress and appearance to ensure their bella figura (good public face). Dressing impeccably comes naturally to most and for most Florentines, chic is a byword. Indeed, it was in their naturally beautiful city that the Italian fashion industry was born and bred. Guccio Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo got the haute-couture ball rolling in the 1920s with boutiques in Florence. And in 1951 a well-heeled Florentine nobleman called Giovanni Battista Giorgini held a fashion soirée in his Florence home to spawn Italy’s first prét-à-porter fashion shows. The catwalk quickly shifted to Florence’s Palazzo Pitti, where Europe’s most prestigious fashion shows dazzled until 1971 (when the women’s shows moved to Milan). The menswear shows stayed put, though, and top designers still leg it to Florence twice a year to unveil their menswear collections at the Pitti Immagine Uomo fashion shows and their creations for bambini (kids) at Pitti Bimbo.
Fodor's Barcelona by Fodor's
Even within Barcelona, a healthy sense of national identity goads designers, architects, merchants, and industrialists to ever higher levels of originality and effectiveness. Ever since 1990, when the International Olympic Committee announced that the 1992 Olympic Games were to be held in the Catalan capital, Barcelona has been booming with pride and confidence in its ever brighter future as (finally!) a bona fide European capital recognized on its own merits. Design, Architecture, Fashion, Style Now that the city’s haute couture status is increasingly seen as biting at the heels of more established design superstars such as Paris and Milan, present-day Barcelona more and more resembles a carousel of postmodern visual surprises, from “cool hunter” Brandery fashions to dizzying architecture—Jean Nouvel’s Torre Agbar gherkin, Norman Foster’s giant erector-set communications tower on the Collserola skyline, or Ricardo Bofill’s Hotel Vela (Sail), the W hotel’s nickname, looming over the waterfront.
In general, Anna Povo’s designs are sleek and minimalist, more influenced by Mies van der Rohe than Gaudí. Colors follow this aesthetic, with cool tones in gray and beige. | Carrer Vidrieria 11, Born-Ribera | 08003 | 93/319–3561 | Station: Jaume I. Antonio Miró. With his Miró jeans label making major inroads with the young and fashionably adventurous, classicist Toni Miró is known for the very upper stratosphere of Catalan haute couture, with clean lines fortified by blacks and dark grays for both men and women. Miró’s look is, in fact, so unisex that couples of similar sizes could probably get away with sharing some androgynous looks and saving closet space. | Consell de Cent 349, Eixample | 08007 | 93/487–0670 | Station: Passeig de Gràcia | Valencia 272, Eixample | 08007 | 93/272–2491 | Station: Passeig de Gràcia | Vidrieria 5, Born-Ribera | 08003 | 93/268–8203 | Station: Jaume I | Carrer del Pi 11, Barri Gòtic | 08002 | 93/342–5875 | www.antoniomiro.es | Station: Liceu.
Essentials Visitor Information: Figueres (Pl. del Sol | 17600 | 972/503155). Exploring Figueres Off the Beaten Path: Casa-Museu Gala Dalí. The third point of the Dalí triangle is the medieval castle of Púbol, where the artist’s wife Gala is buried in the crypt. During the 1970s this was Gala’s residence, though Dalí also lived here in the early 1980s. It contains paintings and drawings, Gala’s haute-couture dresses, elephant sculptures in the garden, furniture, and other objects chosen by the couple. Púbol, roughly between Girona and Figueres, is near the C255, and is not easy to find. If you are traveling by train, get off at the Flaçà station on the Barcelona-Portbou line of RENFE railways; walk or take a taxi 4 km (2½ mi) to Púbol. By bus, the Sarfa bus company has a stop in Flaçà and on the C255 road, some 2 km (1 mi) from Púbol. | Púbol | 972/677500 | www.salvador-dali.org | €7 | Mid-Mar.
Capital Without Borders by Brooke Harrington
banking crisis, Big bang: deregulation of the City of London, British Empire, capital controls, Capital in the Twenty-First Century by Thomas Piketty, complexity theory, corporate governance, corporate social responsibility, diversified portfolio, estate planning, eurozone crisis, family office, financial innovation, ghettoisation, haute couture, high net worth, income inequality, information asymmetry, Joan Didion, job satisfaction, joint-stock company, Joseph Schumpeter, liberal capitalism, mega-rich, mobile money, offshore financial centre, race to the bottom, regulatory arbitrage, Robert Shiller, Robert Shiller, South Sea Bubble, the market place, Thorstein Veblen, transaction costs, upwardly mobile, wealth creators, web of trust, Westphalian system, Wolfgang Streeck, zero-sum game
Generally the status of professional work hinges on “the belief that it cannot be standardized, rationalized, or … ‘commodified.’ ”87 The service model enacted by wealth managers is opposed to standardization and commodification: rather than one-size-fits-all products, they create one-of-a-kind structures designed to fit the unique specifications of each client. Indeed, in this field, “personalization … increases proportionately as the size of the fortune to be managed increases.”88 Its commitment to individualized products and long-term relationships with clients distinguishes wealth management as a bit of an anachronism in an industry that is otherwise at the forefront of modernity.89 Like haute couture, wealth management operates on a business model in which low profit margins are counterbalanced—at least in theory—by high social prestige for the profession.90 But while wealth management may enjoy prestige in the larger scheme of occupations, its position is less well regarded by peer professions within finance. In addition to bespoke service, rising compliance costs are driving lower profit margins in wealth management.91 Compliance work—which ensures that an institution follows all the rules, laws, and regulations that govern its activities—is not only expensive but often resented and even stigmatized within finance.92 As Bruce, a Geneva-based practitioner, observed of wealth management’s image within financial services, “Bankers, including private bankers, understand their job as growing clients’ assets, which also means growing profits for the bank; they regard compliance as a nuisance.
Constance, the native Caribbean wealth manager working in the British Virgin Islands said she was optimistic about the future growth prospects of the profession because “there will never be a shortage of wealth in the world … and there will always be a place for services to the very wealthy.” Erika, the German wealth manager based in Zurich, took a similar view. Echoing the observation of Mark, the English practitioner in Dubai who compared his work to the provision of “extra-special bespoke service, just like suits,” Erika said she expected that there would always be demand for wealth management, just “like there will always be a market for haute couture.” This is not to discount the global changes that affect the industry. For example, many of those interviewed for this study mentioned the decline in privacy and the increased costs of compliance as drivers of transformation in practice. Lynn, an Asian woman practicing in Panama City, said that “at the end of day, you’re not going to be able to hide anymore. That and increased compliance are going to scare some clients off” wealth management services.
Revolution Française: Emmanuel Macron and the Quest to Reinvent a Nation by Sophie Pedder
Airbnb, Berlin Wall, Bernie Sanders, bike sharing scheme, centre right, disruptive innovation, Donald Trump, Downton Abbey, Erik Brynjolfsson, eurozone crisis, failed state, Fall of the Berlin Wall, ghettoisation, haute couture, Jean Tirole, knowledge economy, liberal capitalism, mass immigration, mittelstand, new economy, post-industrial society, rent-seeking, ride hailing / ride sharing, Second Machine Age, sharing economy, Silicon Valley, Travis Kalanick, urban planning, éminence grise
The French factory turned out every one of these luxury record-breaking cars after their launch in 2005. In 2017 Bugatti unveiled a successor, the Chiron, which pushed the limits of physics and sleek design further still. The car reaches 100 kilometres (62 miles) an hour in two and a half seconds and has a starting price of €2.4 million. Christophe Piochon, head of the French plant, compares the exquisite craftsmanship that goes into the construction of a Bugatti car to haute couture. ‘Functional parts,’ he told me when I visited, ‘should also be works of art.’ Although France has a reputation for making life difficult for business, and struggles to hold on to low-end industries and jobs, it is in some ways well placed to carve out a competitive niche in the knowledge economy – if it can get its policy mix right. Bugatti may be a commercial indulgence for its parent company: a badge of engineering and design prowess rather than the basis for a profit line.
France has more winners of the Fields Medal for excellence in maths than any other country except the United States, and has a number of world-class grandes écoles for business (HEC, Essec) and engineering (Ecole Polytechnique, Mines ParisTech, Ecole Centrale) that recruit the best high-school graduates after fearsomely competitive exams. French high-end luxury – Hermès, Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Cartier – is unrivalled in the world, and envied these days even by the Italians. The design aesthetic is part of the national mindset. French culture delights in elegance, sensuality, quality and form: the exquisite hand-stitching on the haute-couture dress; the geometrically arranged tartes aux framboises lined up in the pâtisserie window. The aesthetics of daily life, the art de vivre, remains a source of both grand gestures and small stolen pleasures. It is no coincidence that the two biggest and most successful luxury-goods groups in the world, LVMH and Kering, are French. The world’s fifth-largest economy and sixth-largest exporter, France has more big multinational companies in the global Fortune 500 than Germany.
Le Freak: An Upside Down Story of Family, Disco, and Destiny by Nile Rodgers
It made sense that I wasn’t treated like a star that first night, because no one knew what Chic looked like, and Studio was all about who you were and how you looked. Nefi was really into how to achieve the look; she was a stylist who could design and make clothing. It was she who taught me about high fashion. Before I met Nefi, I’d never heard of Fendi, Fortuny, or Fiorucci. I learned about haute couture and met many top designers, like Calvin Klein and Roy Halston, at Studio. I had many great nights in Studio, but none as important as the night I tried to get in without Nefertiti and failed: New Year’s Eve, 1977. BERNARD AND I rounded the corner at Eighth Avenue onto Fifty-fourth Street. The first thing I saw was a massive mob, herded like cattle onto a sidewalk that couldn’t possibly contain them, and spilling onto the street.
Then she told me to open my mouth and close my eyes. She placed a tablet on my tongue and said, “You belong to me tonight.” I didn’t want to look like a chump in her eyes, because I admired her so much. She looked like an exotic cross between film starlets Dorothy Dandridge and Black Orpheus’s Marpessa Dawn, only more brown-skinned. She was impeccably adorned from head to toe in the latest haute couture, and she spoke perfect French and Italian, because she’d been a European runway model. As stunning as she was physically, it was her Mensa-level intellect that made her unique. Standing before her, I felt overmatched and somewhat afraid. “What did you just give me?” I asked. “X.” “Ecstasy?” “Yeah, ecstasy,” she said. “Oh wow, I haven’t done that in years.” She held my hand, then kissed me in a reassuring way and said, “This is really good stuff, and I’ve been saving it to do it with someone special.”
The Pirate's Dilemma by Matt Mason
"side hustle", Albert Einstein, augmented reality, barriers to entry, citizen journalism, creative destruction, don't be evil, Donald Trump, Douglas Engelbart, East Village, Firefox, future of work, glass ceiling, global village, Hacker Ethic, haute couture, Howard Rheingold, Internet of things, invisible hand, Isaac Newton, jimmy wales, job satisfaction, John Markoff, Joseph Schumpeter, Kickstarter, Lao Tzu, Marshall McLuhan, means of production, Naomi Klein, new economy, New Urbanism, patent troll, peer-to-peer, prisoner's dilemma, RAND corporation, RFID, Richard Florida, Richard Stallman, SETI@home, Silicon Valley, South China Sea, Stephen Hawking, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, Steven Levy, Stewart Brand, Tim Cook: Apple, urban sprawl, Whole Earth Catalog
Pirate-à-Porter Intellectual property works very differently in fashion than it does in the world of entertainment. The 2-D design of a garment is protected, We Invented the Remix | 95 but the 3-D physical object is not, so copying is, and always has been, rife. Freedom to copy other people’s designs is taken for granted in the world of fashion, which makes it unusual, but it’s also the reason it’s so successful. Haute couture designs are copied, sampled, and modiﬁed, gradually trickling down until there are versions of last season’s catwalk designs in bargain basements everywhere. The view that remixing or sampling a design is a serious threat to business is not one held by the fashion industry.* There are rarely objections from design houses when an idea is copied; in fact, it’s almost encouraged. This is an industry where as soon as a high-priced designer garment becomes a trend, there are factories full of copies and knockoff designs competing at lower prices.
In the United States, hip-hop stars rap about buying jewelry and going platinum, while MCs in South Africa talk of exploited workers toiling in plat- 186 | THE PIRATE’S DILEMMA inum mines. Newsstands contain shelves of mass market glossy magazines that document excessive dreams of the lifestyle, while across the street a guy is selling subversive hip-hop literature from a makeshift table. Its contributions to fashion stretch from haute couture to hoochie mama, and it evolved into a scholarly pursuit as easily as it became violent video games and branded bathrobes. How can it constantly contradict itself without tearing itself apart? Credit Where Credit Is Due Once again, the answer lies in authenticity. Hip-hop has managed to make connections with several audiences in several different regional and national markets. It works with every scene, sound, and culture it can.
The Power of Habit: Why We Do What We Do in Life and Business by Charles Duhigg
Atul Gawande, Checklist Manifesto, corporate governance, cuban missile crisis, delayed gratification, desegregation, game design, haute couture, impulse control, index card, longitudinal study, meta analysis, meta-analysis, patient HM, pattern recognition, randomized controlled trial, rolodex, Rosa Parks, Silicon Valley, Stanford marshmallow experiment, telemarketer, Tenerife airport disaster, Toyota Production System, transaction costs, Walter Mischel
If you could somehow diagram all your work habits—and the informal power structures, relationships, alliances, and conflicts they represent—and then overlay your diagram with diagrams prepared by your colleagues, it would create a map of your firm’s secret hierarchy, a guide to who knows how to make things happen and who never seems to get ahead of the ball. Nelson and Winter’s routines—and the truces they make possible—are critical to every kind of business. One study from Utrecht University in the Netherlands, for instance, looked at routines within the world of high fashion. To survive, every fashion designer has to possess some basic skills: creativity and a flair for haute couture as a start. But that’s not enough to succeed.6.25 What makes the difference between success or failure are a designer’s routines—whether they have a system for getting Italian broadcloth before wholesalers’ stocks sell out, a process for finding the best zipper and button seamstresses, a routine for shipping a dress to a store in ten days, rather than three weeks. Fashion is such a complicated business that, without the right processes, a new company will get bogged down with logistics, and once that happens, creativity ceases to matter.
The literature started by Steven Klepper interpreted this aspect of routines as part of the reason why spinoffs are in performance similar to their parents. I use this same reasoning in the fashion design industry: fashion design entrepreneurs form to a large extent their new firm’s blueprint based on the organisational routines learned at their former employer. In my PhD research, I found evidence that from the start of the haute couture industry (1858 Paris), spinoff designer firms (whether located in NY, Paris, Milan or London, etc.) do indeed have a similar performance as their motherfirms.” 6.26 and found the right alliances Details regarding truces—as opposed to routines—within the fashion industry draw on interviews with designers themselves. Wenting, in a response to fact-checking questions, wrote: “Note that I do not speak of truces between entrepreneur and former employer.
Born Standing Up: A Comic's Life by Steve Martin
My mother was the daughter of a strict Baptist matriarch who barred dancing, dating, and cardplaying, and she must have viewed her marriage to my theatrically inclined father as an exciting alternative to small-town life. But my father overpowered her easily intimidated personality, and she only escaped from one repressive situation into another. My mother in Waco, Texas, ca. 1933. My sister and me in haute couture, hand-sewn by my mother. Though I was just eight years old, I was, like most children in that benign era, allowed to walk alone the few blocks to my new school, Oak Street Elementary, which opened in the 1920s and is still operating today. It has a wee bit of architecture about it, featuring an inner Spanish courtyard with six shady ficus trees. It is directly under the flight path of LAX, and our routine civil defense drills had us convinced that every commercial jet roaring overhead was really a Russian plane about to discharge A-bombs.
Lonely Planet Cape Town & the Garden Route (Travel Guide) by Lucy Corne
Berlin Wall, British Empire, Cape to Cairo, carbon footprint, haute couture, haute cuisine, load shedding, Mark Shuttleworth, mass immigration, Nelson Mandela, New Urbanism, Robert Gordon, upwardly mobile, urban renewal, urban sprawl
Call to see if you can visit for lunch or dinner. Enmasse Thai massage the modern way, in a historic building tucked away in Gardens. The Luxe Life Status Luxury Vehicles Cruise Cape Town’s roads in a top-marque convertible, or have a chauffeur drive it for you. Prins & Prins Go shopping for diamonds and other precious jewels at this emporium based in a historic City Bowl house. Klûk & CGDT Haute couture from a former apprentice to John Galliano. Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel Not a guest? Come for afternoon tea or visit the Planet bar and restaurant. Sports Helicopters Hire a chopper and take some photos of the peninsula that will really impress your friends. Month by Month Top Events Cape Town Minstrel Carnival, January Infecting the City, March Design Indaba, February Cape Town Fringe, September Adderley St Christmas Lights, December January Expect packed hotels and restaurants, crowds at the beaches and traffic on main coastal roads.
There are several more antique and curio stores on Long St if you can’t find what you’re looking for here. Klûk & CGDTFASHION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %083 377 7780; kluk.co.za; 43-45 Bree St, City Bowl; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; gLower Loop/Lower Long) The showroom and atelier of Malcolm Klûk (once an apprentice to John Galliano) and Christiaan Gabriel du Toit are combined here. Expect haute couture, with similarly haute prices, and some more affordable prêt-à-porter pieces. AVA GalleryARTS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-424 7436; www.ava.co.za; 35 Church St, City Bowl; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; gChurch/Longmarket) Exhibition space for the nonprofit Association for Visual Arts (AVA), which shows some very interesting work by local artists. Pick up signed prints of works by the famous local cartoonist Zapiro.
Lonely Planet Amsterdam by Lonely Planet
More unique shops, selling everything from Dutch-designed homewares, fashion and art to reconditioned retro computer games, can be found in the backstreets. The Red Light District is home to a wild assortment of adult and fetish shops, as well as 'smart shops' selling magic truffles. 7Medieval Centre oX BankDESIGN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://xbank.amsterdam; Spuistraat 172; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat, noon-8pm Sun; j1/2/5/13/14/17 Dam) More than just a concept store showcasing Dutch-designed haute couture and ready-to-wear fashion, furniture, art, gadgets and homewares, the 700-sq-metre X Bank – in a former bank that's now part of the striking W Amsterdam hotel – also hosts exhibitions, workshops, launches and lectures. Interior displays change every month; check the website for upcoming events. LocalsFASHION & ACCESSORIES ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.localsamsterdam.com; Spuistraat 272; h1-6pm Mon, 11.30am-6pm Tue-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; j1/2/5 Spui) Jeweller Suzanne Hof set up this boutique to showcase designs from her own label, Sugarz, but also to provide a platform for small-scale designers from the Netherlands and especially from Amsterdam.
Not simply places to view the artistic designs, gain inspiration, or even pick up products for your own home or workplace (although they are all that), these accessible galleries frequently incorporate cafes where you can browse design magazines amid the wares (and where, often, even the chair you're sitting on is for sale). Design & Fashion As the Dutch furniture, product and interior designers were taking flight, so too was a generation of cutting-edge fashion designers. Amsterdam fashion house Viktor & Rolf, founded by Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, is enjoying huge international success. From haute couture to ready-to-wear collections, their range now spans men's and women's apparel, shoes, accessories including eyewear, and fragrances. Collaborations such as with retail giant H&M have broadened their appeal. Dutch retail brands making a global impact include Amsterdam success story Scotch & Soda ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.scotch-soda.com; Huidenstraat 3-5; h10am-6pm Tue & Wed, to 9pm Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat, noon-6pm Sun & Mon; j1/2/5 Spui), selling its own-label affordable designs for men, women and children, as well as the Amsterdams Blauw denim line and a vintage furniture collection.
My Misspent Youth: Essays by Meghan Daum
Even though I was heading into my late twenties, I was still a child, ignorant of dance steps or health insurance, a prisoner of credit-card debt and student loans and the nagging feeling that I didn’t want anyone to find me until I had pulled myself into some semblance of an adult. I was a true believer in the urban dream—in years of struggle succumbing to brilliant success, in getting a break, in making it. Like most of my friends, I was selfish by design. To want was more virtuous than to need. I wanted someone to love me but I certainly didn’t need it. I didn’t want to be alone, but as long as I was, I had no choice but to wear my solitude as though it were haute couture. The worst sin imaginable was not cruelty or bitchiness or even professional failure but vulnerability. To admit to loneliness was to slap the face of progress. It was to betray the times in which we lived. But PFSlider derailed me. He gave me all of what I’d never realized I wanted. He called not only when he said he would, but unexpectedly, just to say hello. His guard was not merely down but nonexistent.
Tuscany Road Trips by Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy, Robert Landon, Nicola Williams
Private operators run horse and pony treks in the park – contact Il Gelsomino (0564 40 5 133; www.ilgelsomino.com; Via Strada del Barbicato 4, Alberese; treks from €30) or Circolo Ippico Uccellina (334 9797181; www.circoloippicouccellina.it; Località Collecchio 38, Magliano in Toscana; per half-/full day from €55/95). Fattoria San Martino Agriturismo €€ (0578 71 74 63; www.fattoriasanmartino.it; Via di Martiena 3; r €140-180; closed Dec-Easter; ) Dutch-born Karin and Italian Antonio met when working in Milan’s high-velocity fashion industry, but eventually decided organic farming was more to their liking than haute couture. The homespun-chic rooms in this rebuilt 12th-century farmhouse and purpose-built annexe are sure to please, as will the all-vegetarian meals (dinner €35 plus wine), pretty garden, biological filtered pool and emphasis on sustainability. 5 Eating & Drinking Osteria Acquacheta Tuscan €€ (0578 71 70 86; www.acquacheta.eu; Via del Teatro 2; meals €25; 12.15-4pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon) Hugely popular with locals and tourists alike, this bustling osteria specialises in bistecca alla fiorentina (chargrilled T-bone steak), which arrives in huge, lightly seared, exceptionally flavoursome slabs (don’t even think of asking for it to be served otherwise).
Quality Investing: Owning the Best Companies for the Long Term by Torkell T. Eide, Lawrence A. Cunningham, Patrick Hargreaves
air freight, Albert Einstein, backtesting, barriers to entry, buy and hold, cashless society, cloud computing, commoditize, Credit Default Swap, discounted cash flows, discovery of penicillin, endowment effect, global pandemic, haute couture, hindsight bias, low cost airline, mass affluent, Network effects, oil shale / tar sands, pattern recognition, shareholder value, smart grid, sovereign wealth fund, supply-chain management
This is a beneficial side effect of making execution a high priority. The result is often a pattern of steady small adjustments made routinely – updating systems or shifting to offshore locations – rather than bold reorganizations and grand master plans. Self-perpetuation Industries and companies tend to recruit people with personalities that fit the associated culture. Creative types are an asset for the design of haute couture, but are not the ideal choice to help build nuclear reactors. Similarly, a deep-rooted cost culture is more critical to a low-cost provider than for purveyors of premium brands. Cultures, as a result, tend to self-perpetuate. Companies with questionable practices are more in danger of attracting people unwilling to raise ethical issues or report wrongdoing. People prone to bending the rules are likely to survive and even prosper in organizations that tolerate deviance.
The Rough Guide to Barcelona 8 by Jules Brown, Rough Guides
active transport: walking or cycling, bike sharing scheme, centre right, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, Kickstarter, sustainable-tourism, trade route, urban planning, urban renewal
THE NORTHE RN S UBURBS Museu Textil i d’Indumentaria | Pavellons Güell The latest collection to arrive at the palace is that of the Museu Textil i d’Indumentaria (W www.museutextil.bcn.cat), the textile and clothing museum formerly located in La Ribera. Its layout was undecided at the time of writing, but the extensive collection presents selected items from late-Roman fabrics to 1930s cocktail dresses, while demonstrating the art and technique behind cloth-making, embroidery, lace and tapestry work. There are also pieces by Spanish and Catalan designers of the 1970s to the current day, like those of Pedro Rodríguez (1895–1990), the first haute couture designer to establish a studio in Barcelona, and Catalan designer Antonio Miró, who has recently donated pieces to the museum. Pavellons Güell A block east of the Palau Reial gardens, Avinguda Pedralbes heads north off the Diagonal up to the Monestir de Pedralbes. Just a couple of minutes up the avenue, you’ll pass Gaudí’s remarkable Pavellons Güell on your left. As an early test of his capabilities, Antoni Gaudí was asked by his patron, Eusebi Güell, to rework the entrance, gatehouse and stables of the Güell summer residence, on a large working estate which was sited well away from the filth and unruly mobs of downtown Barcelona.
La Roca Village La Roca del Vallès T938 423 900, Wwww.larocavillage.com. The out-oftown outlet mall is one for serious designer discount-hounds, with 100 stores selling designer gear at up to sixty percent off normal prices. It’s half an hour from the city centre and you can get there by bus or train – there are full public transport details on the website. Stockland c/Comtal 22, Barri Gòtic T 933 180 331; M Urquinaona. A bargain-hunter’s dream. Top-name haute couture from Spanish designers at thirty- to sixty-percent discounts. Shoes Camper c/Pelai 13-37, El Triangle, Dreta de l’Eixample T 902 364 598, W www.camper.com; MCatalunya; plus others. Spain’s favourite shoe store opened its ﬁrst shop in Barcelona in 1981. Providing hip, wellmade, casual city footwear at a good price has been the cornerstone of its success. Czar Pg. del Born 20, La Ribera T933 107 222; M Jaume I.
The Bedwetter: Stories of Courage, Redemption, and Pee by Sarah Silverman
At one of the last fittings, Yuliy seemed very nervous. "Yuliy? Are you okay?" "I have to tell you something," he said, gravely. I couldn't imagine what fashiony thing could possibly be so worrisome. Yuliy said, "I sent the picture of the final dress to the designers, and...well...they're opting to take their name off the dress." Truthfully, I didn't care. I'm not into the glamour of fancy designer names and haute couture shows. I thought I totally understood--this creation didn't look like the conservative kind of dress they made. It had become something else entirely. Something crazy awesome, that is! I did not falter in thinking this was the prettiest dress in the world. I told Yuliy, "I'm so happy now that when people ask who made this dress, I can say, 'Yuliy Mosk!'" I took Yuliy's lack of response as an expression of modesty and humble gratitude.
1947: Where Now Begins by Elisabeth Åsbrink
There, he and his colleagues labor, with feverish discipline, among folds and flounces of fabric. Owing to the new law banning brothels throughout France, numerous women are seeking alternative employment. Christian Dior advertises for models in the press and is swamped by applications. Amid this plethora, he finds only one — Marie-Thérèse. The others — Noëlle, Paule, Yolande, Lucile, and Tania — are recruited from the world of haute couture. They are all extremely svelte, naturellement, so Christian urges them to acquire false bosoms. Now is now, and everything is to be different: curves, corsets, padded hips; a waist so slender that it can be spanned by a man’s hands. The New Look. Outside, the women wear state-approved gabardine, paint their legs brown to compensate for the lack of stockings, and finish off with a darker vertical line that stands in for a seam.
Fewer, Better Things: The Hidden Wisdom of Objects by Glenn Adamson
big-box store, blood diamonds, blue-collar work, Buckminster Fuller, carbon footprint, crowdsourcing, dematerialisation, dumpster diving, haute couture, informal economy, Jacquard loom, Joseph-Marie Jacquard, Mason jar, race to the bottom, trade route, white flight
According to her father: Es went home and got every plumbing manual she could find, she studied them all night, and, next day, she came into the theatre and showed a complete mastery of all these plumbing terms and of what could be done.4 As for McQueen, he began his career as an apprentice in the tailoring shops on Savile Row and is reputed to have been the maker of last resort when he was finishing his first collection—if his staff wasn’t able to execute a particular cut, he would stay up all night and do it himself. (Maybe great designers are also distinguished by their insomnia.) As he matured, McQueen continued to be unswervingly dedicated to craftsmanship, commissioning lavish featherwork, wood carving, embroidery, and innumerable other techniques to realize his ideas.5 The large-scale constructions of Heatherwick, the mass spectacles conceived by Devlin, and McQueen’s haute couture all share a common basis in deep craft training and practice. Chapter 3 THE PAPER CHALLENGE Having said all this, we should also remember that there is more to making, and more to material intelligence, than craft alone. Design writer David Pye suggested in his 1968 book The Nature and Art of Workmanship that we should distinguish between the “workmanship of risk” and the “workmanship of certainty.”
Sweetness and Light: The Mysterious History of the Honeybee by Hattie Ellis
We passed ten minutes or so, discussing how the United States Department of Agriculture had classified light honeys above dark honeys, despite their rich flavors; about the gender politics of the hive (“all women love the bit about the drones being expelled,” he quipped ruefully); about the eucalyptus honey of California and the blueberry honey of Maine. It was an encounter that was part of the serendipity of the city, and of the subject. THE CITY is the place where humans gather and hum; the city is where we fly to get the pick of the crop from shops. La Maison du Miel, in the rue Vignon, just north of the haute couture near the Madeleine, is the longest established honey shop in Paris, opened in 1905, with the original mosaic bees still on the floor. The shop started as a cooperative of beekeepers who wanted to get their produce sold in the capital. It is still run by the same family; they now buy other honeys and have seven hundred hives of their own, which they move around the countryside to the best nectar sources.
Geek Sublime: The Beauty of Code, the Code of Beauty by Vikram Chandra
Alan Turing: On Computable Numbers, with an Application to the Entscheidungsproblem, Apple II, barriers to entry, Berlin Wall, British Empire, business process, conceptual framework, create, read, update, delete, crowdsourcing, don't repeat yourself, Donald Knuth, East Village, European colonialism, finite state, Firefox, Flash crash, glass ceiling, Grace Hopper, haute couture, iterative process, Jaron Lanier, John von Neumann, land reform, London Whale, Norman Mailer, Paul Graham, pink-collar, revision control, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley ideology, Skype, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, supercomputer in your pocket, theory of mind, Therac-25, Turing machine, wikimedia commons, women in the workforce
In general, though, programmers are now skeptical of the notion that there’s any silver bullet for complexity. The programmer and popular blogger Steve Yegge, in his foreword to a book called The Joy of Clojure, describes the language as a “minor miracle” and “an astoundingly high-quality language … the best I’ve ever seen,” but he also notes that it is “fashionable,” and that our industry, the global programming community, is fashion-driven to a degree that would embarrass haute couture designers from New York to Paris … Fashion dictates the programming languages people study in school, the languages employers hire for, the languages that get to be in books on shelves. A naive outsider might wonder if the quality of a language matters a little, just a teeny bit at least, but in the real world fashion trumps all.19 In respect to programming languages and techniques, the programming industry has now been through many cycles of faith and disillusionment, and many of its members have acquired a sharp, necessary cynicism.
Humans Need Not Apply: A Guide to Wealth and Work in the Age of Artificial Intelligence by Jerry Kaplan
Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, Amazon Web Services, asset allocation, autonomous vehicles, bank run, bitcoin, Bob Noyce, Brian Krebs, business cycle, buy low sell high, Capital in the Twenty-First Century by Thomas Piketty, combinatorial explosion, computer vision, corporate governance, crowdsourcing, en.wikipedia.org, Erik Brynjolfsson, estate planning, Flash crash, Gini coefficient, Goldman Sachs: Vampire Squid, haute couture, hiring and firing, income inequality, index card, industrial robot, information asymmetry, invention of agriculture, Jaron Lanier, Jeff Bezos, job automation, John Markoff, John Maynard Keynes: Economic Possibilities for our Grandchildren, Loebner Prize, Mark Zuckerberg, mortgage debt, natural language processing, Own Your Own Home, pattern recognition, Satoshi Nakamoto, school choice, Schrödinger's Cat, Second Machine Age, self-driving car, sentiment analysis, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, Skype, software as a service, The Chicago School, The Future of Employment, Turing test, Watson beat the top human players on Jeopardy!, winner-take-all economy, women in the workforce, working poor, Works Progress Administration
Once a humdrum collection of workaday stores, it now sports upscale establishments with the latest luxury goods. The town diner has gone out of business because far fewer people could afford to eat out, and in its place stands a gourmet restaurant, frequented almost exclusively by the wealthiest twenty families in town. The shop windows that used to display galoshes now showcase designer pumps, and the haberdashery has become an haute couture boutique. What beautiful improvements— the townspeople must be so pleased! Unfortunately, what the visitor can’t see is that most of the residents never visit these stores. Instead they drive to a Walmart fifty miles away to pick up in bulk the weekly staples they can afford. Enormous disparities in living standards are a public disgrace, and we need to fix it. I’m old enough to remember when being rich meant that you had a color TV, and being poor meant you could afford only a black-and-white set.
Sweden by Becky Ohlsen
accounting loophole / creative accounting, car-free, centre right, clean water, financial independence, glass ceiling, haute couture, Kickstarter, low cost airline, low cost carrier, mass immigration, New Urbanism, period drama, place-making, post-work, starchitect, the built environment, white picket fence
RÖHSSKA MUSEET Refreshing Röhsska Museet (61 38 50; www.designmuseum.se; Vasagatan 37; adult/under 20yr Skr40/free; noon-8pm Tue, noon-5pm Wed-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) is Sweden’s only art and design museum. Exhibitions cleverly contrast the classic and the cutting-edge, whether it’s Josef Frank and Bruno Mathsson furniture or 18th-century porcelain and Scandi-cool coat-stands. Eastern treasures include Chinese sculptures and Japanese theatre masks, while the museum’s burgeoning fashion collection spans haute couture to ’80s politicised T-shirts. Temporary exhibitions often favour the offbeat – think skateboard art and denim. RÖDA STEN Occupying a defunct, graffitied power station beside the giant Älvsborgsbron, Röda Sten (12 08 16; www.rodasten.com; Röda Sten 1; adult/under 21yr Skr40/20; noon-5pm Tue-Sun, to 7pm Wed) is one of Sweden’s coolest art centres. Its four gritty floors are home to any number of temporary exhibitions, ranging from edgy Swedish photography to New York sound installations.
It’s quite ironic considering how much foreign influence has shaped this city over the centuries. A perfect day in Göteborg? If it’s sunny, take the tram to Saltholmen and catch a ferry to Brännö Click here. It’s one of the archipelago’s most beautiful islands and a lot of artistic people have moved there. If it’s raining, head to Röhsska Museet. The curator is a progressive thinker, expanding the fashion collection to include recycled clothes and not just haute couture. Varldskulturmuseet is also fantastic. Favourite places to eat? For lunch, head to Alexandras for delicious soups. For dinner, don’t miss Björns Bar. It’s a wine bar with good drops by the glass and fantastic staff who know a lot about food. Another favourite is Publik. How did DEM Collective come about? We met seven years ago while studying project management. Karin was running a club night at Nefertiti and asked where she could source T-shirts that were organic, fair-trade and actually fashionable.
Blue Ocean Strategy, Expanded Edition: How to Create Uncontested Market Space and Make the Competition Irrelevant by W. Chan Kim, Renée A. Mauborgne
Asian financial crisis, borderless world, call centre, cloud computing, commoditize, creative destruction, disruptive innovation, endogenous growth, haute couture, index fund, information asymmetry, interchangeable parts, job satisfaction, Joseph Schumpeter, Kickstarter, knowledge economy, market fundamentalism, NetJets, Network effects, RAND corporation, Skype, telemarketer, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, There's no reason for any individual to have a computer in his home - Ken Olsen, Thomas Kuhn: the structure of scientific revolutions, Vanguard fund, zero-sum game
Today, twenty years out, it has nearly ten thousand clubs worldwide serving more than four million members.4 Despite bumps along the way, it has become the largest women’s fitness franchise in the world. Beyond Curves, many companies have created blue oceans by looking across strategic groups. Ralph Lauren created the blue ocean of “high fashion with no fashion.” Its designer name, the elegance of its stores, and the luxury of its materials capture what most customers value in haute couture. At the same time, its updated classical look and price capture the best of the classical lines such as Brooks Brothers and Burberry. By combining the most attractive factors of both groups and eliminating or reducing everything else, Polo Ralph Lauren not only captured share from both segments but also drew many new customers into the market. In the luxury car market, Toyota’s Lexus carved out a new blue ocean by offering the quality of the high-end Mercedes, BMW, and Jaguar at a price closer to the lower-end Cadillac and Lincoln.
Empire of Illusion: The End of Literacy and the Triumph of Spectacle by Chris Hedges
Albert Einstein, Ayatollah Khomeini, Cal Newport, clean water, collective bargaining, corporate governance, creative destruction, Credit Default Swap, haute couture, Honoré de Balzac, Howard Zinn, illegal immigration, income inequality, Joseph Schumpeter, Naomi Klein, offshore financial centre, Ralph Nader, Ronald Reagan, single-payer health, social intelligence, statistical model, uranium enrichment
The American oligarchy, 1 percent of whom control more wealth than the bottom 90 percent combined, are the characters we envy and watch on television. They live and play in multimillion dollar beach houses and expansive modern lofts. They marry professional athletes and are chauffeured in stretch limos to spa appointments. They rush from fashion shows to movie premieres, flaunting their surgically enhanced, perfect bodies in haute couture. Their teenagers throw $200,000 parties and have $1 million dollar weddings. This life is held before us like a beacon. This life, we are told, is the most desirable, the most gratifying. The working classes, comprising tens of millions of struggling Americans, are shut out of television’s gated community. They have become largely invisible. They are mocked, even as they are tantalized, by the lives of excess they watch on the screen in their living rooms.
Evil by Design: Interaction Design to Lead Us Into Temptation by Chris Nodder
4chan, affirmative action, Amazon Mechanical Turk, cognitive dissonance, crowdsourcing, Daniel Kahneman / Amos Tversky, Donald Trump, en.wikipedia.org, endowment effect, game design, haute couture, jimmy wales, Jony Ive, Kickstarter, late fees, loss aversion, Mark Zuckerberg, meta analysis, meta-analysis, Milgram experiment, Netflix Prize, Nick Leeson, Occupy movement, pets.com, price anchoring, recommendation engine, Rory Sutherland, Silicon Valley, Stanford prison experiment, stealth mode startup, Steve Jobs, telemarketer, Tim Cook: Apple, trickle-down economics, upwardly mobile
Creating desirability through association with a famous person (desirability through identity) is the basis of celebrity endorsements and the reason why movie stars don’t pay for the dresses they wear on the red carpet at the Oscars award ceremony. Fashion from Paris catwalks and the red carpet at the Oscars makes its way into high street stores and big box retailers quickly because wearing something visibly similar to the haute couture clothes is aspirational. Given that people will emulate their idols, there is obviously a place for idols to endorse products online in more creative ways than just appearing in advertisements. Leveraging aspiration online has even extended to Twitter. Now, companies can pay celebrities to tweet 140 characters about their brand or latest campaign. Sponsoredtweets.com has a sliding payment scale based on the popularity of the celebrity.
The Bend of the World: A Novel by Jacob Bacharach
I’m a little hard up in re: the matter of purchasing a ticket, and I figure your grandmother is one of the big Jews at the museum and can get us tickets. Lauren Sara and I are going. I can totally get you a ticket, though. Why is she going? She’s my girlfriend. And she’s an artist. And cetera. An artist. Misplaced affection has misplaced your critical faculties, brother. She is to an artist as Goodwill is to haute couture. You are gay, I said. Fuck off, Johnny said. I don’t want to go anyway. Museums are just massive institutions designed to provide scholar-backed social capital to the notion of art-as-commodity and to reify the artist as a separate caste rather than art as a fundamental human activity. I’d rather not. But seriously, the Pringle thing. Think about it. What’s the thing again? I asked, but he was already gone. 4 Did you hear?
Primates of Park Avenue: A Memoir by Wednesday Martin Ph.d.
I thought her a crass bully, and even worse, an empress with no clothes, the Chanel notwithstanding. Because she was so rich and powerful, the people who rolled their eyes behind her back were too petrified to actually confront her about her nasty antics. School administrators looked the other way because she made big contributions. Everyone else took her put-downs meekly and sat at her table at events, hoping for a scrap of I didn’t know what. Business? Money? A ruffle or ribbon of her haute couture? “Hi,” she said, sort of looking through me. My mind hopped and skipped. My head bobbled. “Oh, sorry, my son is—” I began, rattled, looking wildly from side to side for an escape route. She couldn’t have cared less that I was talking and broke in as if I had no right to respond to her salutation. “I heard about your story or book or . . . whatever. What’s it called?” She scanned the lawn for better prospects.
Bobos in Paradise: The New Upper Class and How They Got There by David Brooks
1960s counterculture, affirmative action, Community Supported Agriculture, David Brooks, Donald Trump, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, George Gilder, haute couture, haute cuisine, income inequality, Jane Jacobs, Jeff Bezos, means of production, Mikhail Gorbachev, New Urbanism, Norman Mailer, place-making, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Robert Bork, Silicon Valley, The Bell Curve by Richard Herrnstein and Charles Murray, The Death and Life of Great American Cities, Thorstein Veblen, Upton Sinclair, upwardly mobile, urban planning, War on Poverty, Yogi Berra
The Birkenstock sandal store around the corner will have a sign in the window pointing out that its wares make nice corporate gifts. As you stroll up the street, you see young parents pushing those all-terrain baby carriages that are popular with the outdoors set. The high-end fashion chain Ann Taylor has its Burlington outlet cheek by jowl with the Peace and Justice Store, nicely showing how haute couture now cohabits effortlessly with hippie thrift-shop eclecticism. The pedestrian mall is lined with upscale candy, muffin, and ice cream stores. There are any number of stores with playful names like Madhatter and Muddy Waters. Ironic allusions and oppressive wordplay are key ingredients to the Latte Town sensibility, where people are not shy about showing off the cultural literacy (the University of Vermont sits up on the hill in Burlington, looking down on the commercial center and Lake Champlain beyond.)
A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush by Eric Newby
Mr Eric Newby, I have since learned, is the author of an exciting sea-log, The Last Grain Race, an account of how at the age of eighteen he signed on as an apprentice of the Finnish barque Moshulu, lived in the fo’c’sle as the only Englishman, worked the ship, rounded both capes under sail in all the vicissitudes of the historic and now extinct passage from Australia to the United Kingdom of the grain-carrying windjammers. His career in the army was heroic and romantic. The bravado and endurance which had briefly made him a sailor were turned to the King’s service. After the war he went into the most improbable of trades, haute couture. It would strain the imagination to picture this stalwart young adventurer selling women’s clothes. We are relieved of the difficulty by his own deliciously funny description, which immediately captivates the reader of the opening chapters of A Short Walk. One can only use the absurdly trite phrase ‘the call of the wild’ to describe the peculiar impetus which carried Mr Newby from Mayfair to the wild mountains of Afghanistan.
Tomorrowland: Our Journey From Science Fiction to Science Fact by Steven Kotler
Albert Einstein, Alexander Shulgin, autonomous vehicles, barriers to entry, Burning Man, carbon footprint, Colonization of Mars, crowdsourcing, Dean Kamen, epigenetics, gravity well, haute couture, interchangeable parts, Kevin Kelly, life extension, Louis Pasteur, low earth orbit, North Sea oil, Oculus Rift, oil shale / tar sands, peak oil, personalized medicine, Peter H. Diamandis: Planetary Resources, private space industry, RAND corporation, Ray Kurzweil, Richard Feynman, Ronald Reagan, self-driving car, stem cell, Stephen Hawking, Stewart Brand, theory of mind, Watson beat the top human players on Jeopardy!, Whole Earth Catalog, WikiLeaks
It’s technically the tale of skydiver Felix Baumgartner’s attempt to break a world record, except that the record he’s set his sights on is actually an off-world record — it is a demonstration that our urge to play, interwoven with our need to push limits, has actually left the planet. In short, we have just added an entirely new level of meaning to the phrase “We got next.” 1. The balloon is a marvel, ghostly silver, as thin as a dry-cleaning bag. Partially inflated at the Roswell, New Mexico, launch site, it looks like an amoeba dressed in haute couture. In the lower atmosphere, at full height, it rises a majestic fifty-five stories. In the stratosphere, pancaked by pressure, it stretches wider than a football field. And it’s the stratosphere where skydiver Felix Baumgartner is heading. The date is October 14, 2012. The plan is for Baumgartner to ride that balloon higher than anyone has ridden before — some twenty-four miles above the Earth.
The Great Fragmentation: And Why the Future of All Business Is Small by Steve Sammartino
3D printing, additive manufacturing, Airbnb, augmented reality, barriers to entry, Bill Gates: Altair 8800, bitcoin, BRICs, Buckminster Fuller, citizen journalism, collaborative consumption, cryptocurrency, David Heinemeier Hansson, disruptive innovation, Elon Musk, fiat currency, Frederick Winslow Taylor, game design, Google X / Alphabet X, haute couture, helicopter parent, illegal immigration, index fund, Jeff Bezos, jimmy wales, Kickstarter, knowledge economy, Law of Accelerating Returns, lifelogging, market design, Metcalfe's law, Minecraft, minimum viable product, Network effects, new economy, peer-to-peer, post scarcity, prediction markets, pre–internet, profit motive, race to the bottom, random walk, Ray Kurzweil, recommendation engine, remote working, RFID, Rubik’s Cube, self-driving car, sharing economy, side project, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, skunkworks, Skype, social graph, social web, software is eating the world, Steve Jobs, survivorship bias, too big to fail, US Airways Flight 1549, web application, zero-sum game
The collaborative consumption movement means that buying is a choice rather than a necessity. We can rent cars by increments of hours now and have all the benefits of a private car on demand without the excessive cost of hiring or owning one. This is pretty significant given that the average motor vehicle spends more than 90 per cent of its available life idle in a car space. We can now gain temporary access to goods, from haute-couture handbags, to chainsaws, to private jets, to gardens, to office spaces, to bicycles. Anything that can be bought can now be accessed. The story of music All goods, even those that started as physical goods, are moving towards access, sharing and temporary interaction. Music is a classic example. If we think back to how music has evolved through history, it’s been on a constant path towards more seamlessly distributing itself by consistently removing the physical requirements for hearing it, making it more available and accessible.
The Sellout: A Novel by Paul Beatty
affirmative action, cognitive dissonance, conceptual framework, desegregation, El Camino Real, haute couture, illegal immigration, Lao Tzu, late fees, mass incarceration, p-value, publish or perish, rolodex, Ronald Reagan, Rosa Parks, telemarketer, theory of mind, War on Poverty, white flight, yellow journalism
I swear to God, sometimes I wake up in the middle of the night dreaming about your fucking plums and the juicy-ass pomegranates. I almost didn’t break up with you because I kept thinking, Where am I going to get fucking cantaloupes that taste like a multiple orgasm?” We’d rekindled our childhood friendship on the bus. I was seventeen, carless and clueless. She was twenty-one and fine enough to make that ill-fitting seaweed-brown RTD uniform look like haute-couture fashion. Except for the badge. No one, not even John Wayne, can pull off a badge. Back then she drove the #434—downtown to Zuma Beach. A route that once you got past the Santa Monica pier was mostly riderless, except for the burnouts, bums, and maids who serviced the Malibu estates and oceanfront bungalows. I surfed Venice and Santa Monica. Mostly Station 24. Sometimes 20. No real reason. The waves were shit.
The Great Tax Robbery: How Britain Became a Tax Haven for Fat Cats and Big Business by Richard Brooks
accounting loophole / creative accounting, bank run, Big bang: deregulation of the City of London, bonus culture, Bretton Woods, carried interest, Celtic Tiger, collateralized debt obligation, commoditize, Corn Laws, corporate social responsibility, crony capitalism, Double Irish / Dutch Sandwich, financial deregulation, haute couture, intangible asset, interest rate swap, Jarndyce and Jarndyce, mega-rich, Northern Rock, offshore financial centre, race to the bottom, shareholder value, short selling, supply-chain management, The Chicago School, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, transfer pricing
to tax avoidance Star-struck onlookers gasped as she emerged from a chauffeur-driven midnight blue Jaguar, her floor-length rose pink and organza-sequinned Jenny Packham evening gown glittering in the paparazzi’s flashlights. He stylishly complemented his stunning new wife in a classic black dinner jacket. The date was 9 June 2011, the occasion the annual ARK gala dinner at Kensington Palace, the guests of honour Prince William, Duke of Cambridge, and his Duchess, Kate. (I include the haute couture detail, courtesy of the ever-reliable Daily Telegraph, not just as a desperate corrective to the previous blokeish passage, but to show where real glamour is to be found in twenty-first-century London.)16 ARK stands for Absolute Returns for Kids, a charity established by Swiss/French hedge fund manager Arpad ‘Arki’ Busson, whose leonine looks and list of exes (Farah Fawcett, Elle Macpherson, Uma Thurman), make him no Compo in the glamour stakes.
Gray Lady Down: What the Decline and Fall of the New York Times Means for America by William McGowan
affirmative action, Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, corporate governance, David Brooks, different worldview, East Village, friendly fire, haute couture, illegal immigration, immigration reform, liberation theology, medical residency, New Journalism, obamacare, payday loans, postnationalism / post nation state, pre–internet, uranium enrichment, yellow journalism, young professional
After the first set of weddings, which involved twenty-five couples, Mayor West told Crampton, “I am willing to go to jail to hold these marriages,” and added, “This is a stand any decent American should take.” Some of the weddings received cloying coverage. “Rushing Out of the Closet and Down the Aisle” described a retired U.S. Army major who was marrying a Dutch-born “sometime designer of haute couture accessories for pets.” The two had wanted more time to plan but decided that seizing the opportunity was wise. The Dutchman called his wedding day “the greatest day of his life.” He was grateful “to Mayor Jason West for permitting me to make a public declaration of my love for Jeff. Jeff and I sat down in the front of the bus for the first time and began a new phase of our lives together.” A Times editorial of March 7 cheered local officials such as Mayor Newsom and Mayor West for pushing the next step in civil rights:To the Virginia judge who ruled that Mildred Jeter, a black woman, and Richard Loving, a white man, could not marry, the reason was self-evident.
Stuff: Compulsive Hoarding and the Meaning of Things by Gail Steketee, Randy Frost
It was important, he noted, to wear the right clothes for each social occasion, day and night, and since he still had free dry cleaning from his arts producer days, there was no need to worry about cost. "But now I can't find what I'm looking for," he said, adding that it sometimes took him two hours to dress as he struggled to locate the right item in his mass of clothes and accessories. "I live as if it's a dressing room." Colin acquired nearly all his clothes for free. His designer friends and former colleagues regularly sent him haute couture for his personal use. These gifts were intended to gain his approval and pay him back for favors in the past. If Colin merely mentioned to a friend that he might need something for his travels, it arrived on his doorstep from London, Moscow, or Paris. Because his income was now fixed, Colin relied on these former colleagues and friends to support his "habit." "When I travel, I go to boutiques and look at their stuff.
The Rise of Superman: Decoding the Science of Ultimate Human Performance by Steven Kotler
Albert Einstein, Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic, Clayton Christensen, data acquisition, delayed gratification, deliberate practice, fear of failure, Google Earth, haute couture, impulse control, Isaac Newton, Jeff Bezos, jimmy wales, Kevin Kelly, Lao Tzu, lateral thinking, life extension, lifelogging, low earth orbit, Maui Hawaii, pattern recognition, Ray Kurzweil, risk tolerance, rolodex, selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor (SSRI), Silicon Valley, Stanford marshmallow experiment, Steve Jobs, Walter Mischel, X Prize
Again, it’s hard to say for certain, but it’s worth pointing out that in 2012 Honnold repeated his Half Dome solo. This time twice as fast: finishing the route in one hour twenty-two minutes. 12 Flow to Abundance STRATOS The balloon was a marvel, ghostly silver, as thin as a dry-cleaning bag. Partially inflated, at the Roswell, New Mexico, launch site, it looked not unlike an amoeba dressed in haute couture. In the lower atmosphere, at full height, it rose a majestic fifty-five stories. In the stratosphere, pancaked by pressure, it stretched wider than a football field. And the stratosphere was where skydiver Felix Baumgartner was heading. The date was October 14, 2012. The plan was for Baumgartner to ride that balloon some twenty-four miles above the Earth, higher than anyone has ever ridden a balloon before.
Hothouse Kids: The Dilemma of the Gifted Child by Alissa Quart
affirmative action, Albert Einstein, cognitive dissonance, deliberate practice, Flynn Effect, haute couture, helicopter parent, knowledge worker, longitudinal study, meta analysis, meta-analysis, new economy, Norbert Wiener, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Ronald Reagan, Stephen Hawking, The Bell Curve by Richard Herrnstein and Charles Murray, the scientific method, Thomas L Friedman, War on Poverty
Today’s overstructured, hardworking children are in a sense a strange echo of the idea of childhood in earlier centuries, except now it is the upper and upper-middle classes who labor so young, rather than the other way around. They are like Baruch Shemtov, a teen tie designer, who in 2004 had his first trunk show at a high-end department store, calling his ties, which he works on in addition to his hours of schoolwork, “haute couture.” (Baruch’s “career” started when he collected Gucci catalogs as a child. His first clothing line, designed at age eight, was named BYSH, after himself.) “Because I have school, I can’t expand as much as I’d like,” he told me. Parents of child professionals—and also some of the millions of American children with shrunken recess and play hours—don’t all think the reduction of play is such a terrible thing.
Squeezed: Why Our Families Can't Afford America by Alissa Quart
Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, Airbnb, Automated Insights, autonomous vehicles, barriers to entry, basic income, Bernie Sanders, business intelligence, Donald Trump, Downton Abbey, East Village, Elon Musk, full employment, future of work, gig economy, glass ceiling, haute couture, income inequality, Jaron Lanier, job automation, late capitalism, Lyft, minimum wage unemployment, moral panic, new economy, nuclear winter, obamacare, Ponzi scheme, post-work, precariat, price mechanism, rent control, ride hailing / ride sharing, school choice, sharing economy, Silicon Valley, Skype, Snapchat, surplus humans, TaskRabbit, Travis Kalanick, Uber and Lyft, Uber for X, uber lyft, union organizing, universal basic income, upwardly mobile, wages for housework, women in the workforce, working poor
It all got me wondering whether the more staccato and dreary our real work lives are, the more we might depend on shows featuring a colorfully and darkly immoral overclass. One percent reality shows feature outrageously lavish weddings, maternity concierges, and planners for children’s birthday parties, ridiculously roomy mansions and glorious Los Angeles modernist homes, private concerts, elaborate wardrobes, and haute couture hairstylists. In one section of 1 percent TV sit the Kardashians and the Real Housewives, but also the 2011 show Pregnant in Heels, where an insanely wealthy “maternity concierge” came out about her infertility on air. “I discovered I had a heart-shaped uterus and after surgery didn’t ovulate again,” said the show’s star, Rosie Pope, in an interview. The staggering cost of the IVF she underwent to conceive is glided over.
The Year That Changed the World: The Untold Story Behind the Fall of the Berlin Wall by Michael Meyer
Ayatollah Khomeini, bank run, Berlin Wall, Bonfire of the Vanities, Bretton Woods, BRICs, call centre, Fall of the Berlin Wall, falling living standards, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, haute couture, mass immigration, Mikhail Gorbachev, mutually assured destruction, Ronald Reagan, Ronald Reagan: Tear down this wall, union organizing
Everything was gilt, mirrors and brocaded wallpaper—glitter without style, coherence or taste. There were no books. The paintings were of reclining nudes and cherubs, milkmaids frisking with lambs and little children. Upstairs, empty boxes of perfume and cosmetics littered the floor of Elena’s boudoir: Arpège, Nina Ricci, Mystère de Rochas. A can of Woolite rolled in a corner. Boxes of Palmolive hemorrhoidal balm crunched underfoot. Despite the closets full of haute-couture gowns, Elena Ceausescu seems to have preferred heavy woolen suits and metallic, stub-nosed shoes with square, no-nonsense heels. There were hundreds of pairs. Gauntly thin, she appears to have obsessed about her weight. Her pink-and-gold bath had four scales. A man in white athletic shoes and a leather jacket rummaged in the drawers of her nightstand. Finding a photo of the Ceausescus with their children, he balled it up and threw it into her rose-tinted bidet.
Undoing the Demos: Neoliberalism's Stealth Revolution by Wendy Brown
Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, bitcoin, Branko Milanovic, Capital in the Twenty-First Century by Thomas Piketty, collective bargaining, corporate governance, credit crunch, crowdsourcing, David Brooks, Food sovereignty, haute couture, immigration reform, income inequality, invisible hand, labor-force participation, late capitalism, means of production, new economy, obamacare, occupational segregation, Philip Mirowski, Ronald Reagan, sexual politics, shareholder value, sharing economy, The Chicago School, the market place, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, Thomas Malthus, too big to fail, trickle-down economics, Washington Consensus, Wolfgang Streeck, young professional, zero-sum game
Prominent modern and contemporary economists rarely gender this creature, and when they occasion- re v isin g f o u c au lt 99 ally glance in the direction of sexual difference, it is generally to argue or imply that physiology is irrelevant to the form, though not to the content of rationally choosing market animals. Adam Smith’s market creature, Gary Becker’s human capital, quotidian rational choosers — none of these are specified as male or presumed gendered, even as neoliberals recognize the possibility of gender-specific attributes on which certain kinds of human capital may be built, for example, football players or haute couture models. Indeed, the putatively generic character of rational choice and the putative advantages for all of a gendered division of labor between family and marketplace are the skillfully twinned arguments animating Becker’s remarkable book, A Treatise on the Family. However, feminists know well that when scholars presume their subject has no gender, this is far from the last word on the matter.
The Quantum Thief by Hannu Rajaniemi
That can only mean one thing, and even through his clouded brain Isidore realises he has made a mistake. ‘You are a journalist,’ he says. The momentum is gone, and the water swallows the skipping stone. His head feels heavy. In a world of perfect privacy, there are still analog holes, and publishing newspapers is one of the most lucrative tolerated crimes in the Oubliette. They have been after him ever since his first case with the haute couture thieves. But they have never managed to breach his gevulot. Until now. ‘Yes, I am. Adrian Wu, from Ares Herald.’ He takes out an old-fashioned camera from his bag – another trick to get around gevulot. The flash blinds Isidore for a moment. Isidore hits him. Or tries to: he leaps to his feet and swings wildly, failing to connect. His legs buckle. He grabs the nearest object – the computer monitor on the table – and falls to the floor with it with a crash.
Blink: The Power of Thinking Without Thinking by Malcolm Gladwell
affirmative action, airport security, Albert Einstein, complexity theory, David Brooks, East Village, haute couture, Kevin Kelly, lateral thinking, medical malpractice, medical residency, Menlo Park, Nelson Mandela, new economy, pattern recognition, phenotype, Ronald Reagan, Silicon Valley, Stephen Hawking, theory of mind, young professional
In 1996, Hush Puppies won the prize for best accessory at the Council of Fashion Designers awards dinner at Lincoln Center, and the president of the firm stood up on the stage with Calvin Klein and Donna Karan and accepted an award for an achievement that—as he would be the first to admit—his company had almost nothing to do with. Hush Puppies had suddenly exploded, and it all started with a handful of kids in the East Village and Soho. How did that happen? Those first few kids, whoever they were, weren’t deliberately trying to promote Hush Puppies. They were wearing them precisely because no one else would wear them. Then the fad spread to two fashion designers who used the shoes to peddle something else—haute couture. The shoes were an incidental touch. No one was trying to make Hush Puppies a trend. Yet, somehow, that’s exactly what happened. The shoes passed a certain point in popularity and they tipped. How does a thirty-dollar pair of shoes go from a handful of downtown Manhattan hipsters and designers to every mall in America in the space of two years? 1. There was a time, not very long ago, in the desperately poor New York City neighborhoods of Brownsville and East New York, when the streets would turn into ghost towns at dusk.
Places of the Heart: The Psychogeography of Everyday Life by Colin Ellard
augmented reality, Benoit Mandelbrot, Berlin Wall, Broken windows theory, Buckminster Fuller, carbon footprint, commoditize, crowdsourcing, Frank Gehry, Google Glasses, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, Howard Rheingold, Internet of things, Jaron Lanier, mandelbrot fractal, Marshall McLuhan, Masdar, mass immigration, megastructure, more computing power than Apollo, Oculus Rift, Peter Eisenman, RFID, Richard Florida, risk tolerance, sentiment analysis, smart cities, starchitect, the built environment, theory of mind, urban decay, urban planning, urban sprawl, Victor Gruen
To the alarm of the students who controlled the machines and managed the wires connecting the pieces of gear together, Beesley was soon running from place to place, crawling along the floor to get underneath things, lying on his back on the floor looking up at ceilings, consuming my simulation with happy, childlike curiosity while those around him scurried about trying to keep wires and computers in check. Beesley’s artistic works are both moving and thought-provoking, but they seem far-flung from the bread-and-butter design of buildings like schools, banks, offices, or homes. Like the haute couture world of fashion, in which we see models walking runways in outfits that most of us would not be caught dead wearing in the street, Beesley’s responsive sculptures can be thought of as a set of signposts to the future: the bleeding edge of what design in a wired world has in store for us, and one of the main subjects of this book. Hylozoic Soil provides a high-impact object lesson in the extent to which a thing can develop a two-way emotional relationship with a human being.
My Life as a Quant: Reflections on Physics and Finance by Emanuel Derman
Berlin Wall, bioinformatics, Black-Scholes formula, Brownian motion, buy and hold, capital asset pricing model, Claude Shannon: information theory, Donald Knuth, Emanuel Derman, fixed income, Gödel, Escher, Bach, haute couture, hiring and firing, implied volatility, interest rate derivative, Jeff Bezos, John Meriwether, John von Neumann, law of one price, linked data, Long Term Capital Management, moral hazard, Murray Gell-Mann, Myron Scholes, Paul Samuelson, pre–internet, publish or perish, quantitative trading / quantitative ﬁnance, Sharpe ratio, statistical arbitrage, statistical model, Stephen Hawking, Steve Jobs, stochastic volatility, technology bubble, the new new thing, transaction costs, volatility smile, Y2K, yield curve, zero-coupon bond, zero-sum game
(Since the Black-Scholes model is only a model, and since no model in finance is 100 percent correct, it is impossible for them to entirely cancel their risk.) Dealers charge a fee (the option premium) for this construction and deconstruction, just as chefs at fancy restaurants charge you not only for the raw ingredients but also for the recipes and skills they use, or as couturiers bill you for the materials and talents they employ in creating haute couture dresses. LIFE AS A QUANT The history of quants on Wall Street is the history of the ways in which practitioners and academics have refined and extended the BlackScholes model. The last thirty years have seen it applied not just to stock options but to options on just about anything you can think of, from Treasury bonds and foreign exchange to the weather. Behind all these extensions is the same original insight: It is possible to tailor securities with the precise risk desired out of a mix of simpler ingredients using a recipe that specifies how to continually readjust their proportions.The readjustment depends on the exact way in which the ingredients' prices move.
Family Trade by Stross, Charles
Tell me all about it. Everything. Don’t leave anything out. My gods—I am so glad you’re here and safe now.” He hugged her. “Tell me everything. In your own time.” ‘Time is the one thing I don’t think we’ve got.” She leaned against him. “Someone sent Olga an unwelcome gift—a rape-o-gram. Luckily for me, but unluckily for the thug concerned, Olga’s childlike enthusiasms include embroidery, violins, haute couture, and semiautomatic weapons. She found a commission in his back pocket, with my seal on it and a purse of coin sufficient to pay the kind of maidenprice Oliver might ask for someone he really didn’t like much. Roland, I didn’t even know I had a seal.” ” ‘A seal.’” He looked away just as someone knocked on the door. Miriam jumped. “I’ll get it—” “No! Wait!” Miriam scrabbled for her jacket, fumbled in its pockets.
The Rapture of the Nerds by Cory Doctorow, Charles Stross
3D printing, Ayatollah Khomeini, butterfly effect, cognitive dissonance, combinatorial explosion, complexity theory, Credit Default Swap, dematerialisation, Drosophila, epigenetics, Extropian, gravity well, greed is good, haute couture, hive mind, margin call, negative equity, phenotype, plutocrats, Plutocrats, rent-seeking, Richard Feynman, telepresence, Turing machine, Turing test, union organizing
Where a terrestrial establishment would have a central bar area and booths around the periphery, this establishment has a kilometers-wide expanse of glassy floor and a central bar that features such nifty magnification features that stools spring up like self-similar leather mushrooms as you approach any given spot: in the distance, near the walls, gales howl among the hyperspace gates leading to the private areas (which feature planetary themes, so that the subsurface oceanic caverns of Enceladus adjoin the fiery sands of long-dismantled Venus). The dress code is similarly over the top, as Huw realizes when she notices the djinni is wearing an antique Armani suit. She’s no expert on haute couture: she realizes she probably ought to recognize the designer of the cocktail dress the scanner selected for her, but she’s too busy fighting with the insane footwear to care about such minor details. Mid-1980s: Greed is good. It seems a fitting context in which to discuss the identity of a person or persons who might be trying to steal a planet’s worth of computronium. The whole thing is so massively, monstrously over the top—like a nuclear aircraft carrier tricked out as a private yacht—that it takes Huw a moment to realize that she and the djinni are alone.
Split-Second Persuasion: The Ancient Art and New Science of Changing Minds by Kevin Dutton
availability heuristic, Bernie Madoff, call centre, Cass Sunstein, cognitive bias, cognitive dissonance, credit crunch, different worldview, double helix, Douglas Hofstadter, equity premium, fundamental attribution error, haute couture, job satisfaction, loss aversion, Milgram experiment, placebo effect, Stephen Hawking, Steven Pinker, theory of mind, ultimatum game, upwardly mobile
A gift from God – who knows? It’s just that in the past I’ve used that gift for my own ends. So why not do some good with it for once?’ He smiles. ‘Or that’s what I told the minister anyway. That pompous prick would have swallowed anything if it made him look good in front of his flock!’ Barrett’s technique was unorthodox to say the least. It was also downright illegal. Jettisoning the sumptuous haute couture of the old days – the silk ties, the Gucci shoes, the Armani shirts, and the £2000 Savile Row suits – he began by dressing down. In jeans, sneakers and sport’s shirt: the epitome of shabby chic. Such a retrograde costume change as this (made, he points out impishly, against all his natural sartorial instincts) flags up the extraordinary attention to detail, the predatory, arctic acumen of the ultimate persuasion virtuoso.
Celebration of Fools: An Inside Look at the Rise and Fall of JCPenney by Bill Hare
But Dunn took care to stress "something like" blazers, clearly granting leeway for any lightweight sport coat from brass-button navy to khaki to seersucker. Nevertheless, in another part of the JCPenney world a menswear buyer soon noticed an odd spike in blue blazer sales, a curiosity for this time of the year. What could possibly be the cause? He would never have guessed that the reason was what would become known as "The Blue Blazer Convention." Blue Blazers and Haute Couture On the first morning of the convention, Seibert entered the green room before his keynote address. Always distracted before a speech, he sat at a table and leafed through his text making a few margin notes. The speech was titled "Highwire Act" in the printed convention agenda, and the chairman would be playing on the metaphor regarding the skill and courage required of every Penney DM. Before Seibert knew it, a small entourage of upper-middle managers had spontaneously gathered around him—something he always hated but was too Penney-polite to quash.
You Are What You Speak: Grammar Grouches, Language Laws, and the Politics of Identity by Robert Lane Greene
anti-communist, British Empire, centre right, discovery of DNA, European colonialism, facts on the ground, haute couture, illegal immigration, Mahatma Gandhi, Mikhail Gorbachev, Nelson Mandela, Parag Khanna, Ronald Reagan, Sapir-Whorf hypothesis, Steven Pinker, Yogi Berra, zero-sum game
We would not be able to visit a café or brasserie. There would be no aperitifs or hors d’oeuvres—in fact there would be no restaurants. We should forget the table d’hôte; there is no question of the à la carte instead. There would be no left- or right-hand side of the menu and no nouvelle cuisine. Bon viveurs would be banned. One would not be able to shower one’s fiancée with bouquets, meet at a secret rendezvous, or buy her haute couture clothes. There would be great difficulties in having a ménage-à-trois. Crime passionel would be out of the question and negligée would make a liaison dangereuse a little risqué. After another member cried out “guillotine him!” Steen’s fines-for-French measure was duly put to a vote and rejected, 149–45. By whatever measure—countries where they are official, number of first-language speakers, number of second-language speakers, volume of written publications, or the slipperier quantity we might call simply prestige—English is the most successful language on Earth, and French is the only other with a global reach in the same league, despite the fact that other languages have more native speakers.
The Winner-Take-All Society: Why the Few at the Top Get So Much More Than the Rest of Us by Robert H. Frank, Philip J. Cook
accounting loophole / creative accounting, air freight, Alvin Roth, Apple's 1984 Super Bowl advert, business cycle, Daniel Kahneman / Amos Tversky, delayed gratification, global village, haute couture, income inequality, invisible hand, labor-force participation, longitudinal study, Marshall McLuhan, medical malpractice, Network effects, positional goods, prisoner's dilemma, rent-seeking, rising living standards, Ronald Reagan, school choice, Shoshana Zuboff, Stephen Hawking, transaction costs, trickle-down economics, winner-take-all economy
With nuclear reactors, light water-, gas-, heavy-water-, and sodium-cooled designs were the main competitors. Unix, Macintosh, MS-DOS, Windows, and OS-2 have been the most important rival operating systems for personal comput ers. And digital technology battled analog technology in the race to bring high-definition television to market. Fashions, too, often compete in winner-take-all markets. In the world of haute couture, designers often stake their survival on con flicting hunches about hem lengths and lapel widths. And executives at General Motors likewise took a financial leap of faith when they brought out their 1 958 Chevrolet, the first American car in several years that lacked conspicuous tail fins. But probably no group is more vulnerable to the whims of fashion than the entrepreneurs who com pete in the market for trendy nightclubs in cities like New York.
Lonely Planet France by Lonely Planet Publications
banking crisis, bike sharing scheme, British Empire, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, Charles Lindbergh, Columbine, double helix, Frank Gehry, G4S, glass ceiling, haute couture, haute cuisine, Henri Poincaré, Honoré de Balzac, illegal immigration, Jacquard loom, Joseph-Marie Jacquard, Kickstarter, Louis Blériot, Louis Pasteur, low cost airline, low cost carrier, Mahatma Gandhi, mass immigration, Murano, Venice glass, ride hailing / ride sharing, sensible shoes, Silicon Valley, supervolcano, trade route, urban renewal, urban sprawl, V2 rocket
Exchange Rates Australia A$1 €0.79 Canada C$1 €0.79 Japan ¥100 €0.98 New Zealand NZ$1 €0.63 UK UK£1 €1.24 US US$1 €0.77 For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com Important Numbers France country code 33 International access code 00 Europe-wide emergency 112 Ambulance (SAMU) 15 Police 17 Arriving in France » Paris – Aéroport Roissy Charles de Gaulle Trains, Buses & RER – to Paris centre every 15 to 30 minutes, 5am to 11pm Night Bus – hourly, 12.30am to 5.30am. Taxis – €50–€60; 30 minutes to Paris centre » Paris – Aéroport d’Orly Orlyval Rail, RER & Buses – at least every 15 minutes, 5am to 11pm Taxis – €45–€60; 25 minutes to Paris centre In France to Shop! OK, so Paris is the bee’s knees for luxury goods like haute couture, high-quality fashion accessories (Hermès silk scarf, Madame?), lingerie, perfume and cosmetics. Lovely as they are, they most probably aren’t any cheaper to buy in France than at home. Time your trip right and pick up designer and street fashion for a snip of the usual price at France’s soldes (sales), by law held twice a year for three weeks in January and again in July. Other times look for the words degriffés (name-brand products with the labels cut out), bonnes affaires (cut-price deals) and dépôt-vente (secondhand).
To ensure you get what you want, use these phrases when booking by telephone or email. » Hello. Bonjour. » I’d like to book a room. Je voudrais réserver une chambre. » a single room une chambre à un lit » a double room une chambre avec un grand lit » My name is ... Je m’appelle... » from ... to... (date) du... au... » How much is it? C’est combien? » per night/person par nuit/personne » Thank you (very much). Merci (beaucoup). What to Wear Paris, cradle of haute couture, is chic, so don your smarter threads (think Parisian, think accessories!). The further south you go, the more relaxed fashion becomes, although it’s still sassy, especially on the French Riviera. Avoid shorts and flip-flops unless you’re at the beach, and dress up rather than down at restaurants, clubs and bars – no jeans and trainers, unless you’re at the local village bar. Bring a sweater (jumper) and rain jacket, and something to protect your skin from peckish mosquitoes.
The tower is also an ideal spot to board a river cruise (or the hop-on, hop-off Batobus) along the Seine, and float past Parisian landmarks like the Louvre and Notre Dame. Other vantage points perfect for acquainting yourself with the city include the rooftops of the Centre Pompidou cultural centre and the art nouveau department store Galeries Lafayette, as well as the steps of Sacré-Cœur basilica. Top Five Signature Splurges » Flit between flagship haute couture (high fashion) houses in the Triangle d’Or (Golden Triangle; bordered by avs Georges V, Champs-Élysées and Montaigne), St-Germain’s storied shops, and emerging designers in the Haut Marais (Click here ). » Feast on baiser Ladurée (layered almond cake with strawberries and cream) at Champs-Élysées patisserie Ladurée (Click here ). » Concoct your own personal fragrance at Le Studio des Parfums ( Click here ). » Sip a decadent hot chocolate at salon de thé (tea room) Angelina (Click here ). » Spend an evening at Paris’ oldest and most palatial opera house, the Palais Garnier ( Click here ).
Discover Kaua'i Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
Shopping COCONUT MARKETPLACE Souvenirs Offline map (www.coconutmarketplace.com; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) This touristy place feels like a throwback, a once-popular venue which now has too many vacant spaces. The surviving stores offer a mix of midrange island attire, jewelry, T-shirts and gifts. BAMBULEI Clothing Offline map (www.bambulei.com; 4-369-D Kuhio Hwy; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) This irresistible women’s boutique is chock-full of feminine gear made for women who’ve outgrown the teenage surfer-chick look. The drapey sweaters, platform sandals and kimono-fabric accessories aren’t haute couture, but they’re affordable and unique. Also find vintage clothing and retro home decor. Getting There & Away Don’t look for a town center. Most attractions are scattered along Kuhio Hwy (Hwy 56) or along Kuamo'o Rd (Hwy 580), which leads mauka (inland). To get to Kapa'a or beyond, take the Kapa'a Bypass Rd, which runs from Coconut Plantation to north Kapa'a. Waipouli Waipouli (‘Brown Water’) and its gentle lagoons used to serve as a departure point for Hawaiians setting sail for Tahiti and other reaches of Polynesia.
The Deep Learning Revolution (The MIT Press) by Terrence J. Sejnowski
AI winter, Albert Einstein, algorithmic trading, Amazon Web Services, Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic, augmented reality, autonomous vehicles, Baxter: Rethink Robotics, bioinformatics, cellular automata, Claude Shannon: information theory, cloud computing, complexity theory, computer vision, conceptual framework, constrained optimization, Conway's Game of Life, correlation does not imply causation, crowdsourcing, Danny Hillis, delayed gratification, discovery of DNA, Donald Trump, Douglas Engelbart, Drosophila, Elon Musk, en.wikipedia.org, epigenetics, Flynn Effect, Frank Gehry, future of work, Google Glasses, Google X / Alphabet X, Guggenheim Bilbao, Gödel, Escher, Bach, haute couture, Henri Poincaré, I think there is a world market for maybe five computers, industrial robot, informal economy, Internet of things, Isaac Newton, John Conway, John Markoff, John von Neumann, Mark Zuckerberg, Minecraft, natural language processing, Netflix Prize, Norbert Wiener, orbital mechanics / astrodynamics, PageRank, pattern recognition, prediction markets, randomized controlled trial, recommendation engine, Renaissance Technologies, Rodney Brooks, self-driving car, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, Socratic dialogue, speech recognition, statistical model, Stephen Hawking, theory of mind, Thomas Bayes, Thomas Kuhn: the structure of scientific revolutions, traveling salesman, Turing machine, Von Neumann architecture, Watson beat the top human players on Jeopardy!, X Prize, Yogi Berra
It is fashion week in Milan and models with otherworldly expressions are on the runways with striking struts (figure 9.7). Something is stirring in the fashion world: “‘Many jobs are vanishing,’ Silvia Venturini Fendi said before her show: ‘Androids will take the old jobs, but the only thing that they can’t replace is our creativity and our minds.’”26 Now imagine generative adversarial networks that have been trained to generate new styles and haute couture with almost endless variety. The world of fashion may be on the brink of a new era, along with many other businesses that depend on creativity. It’s All about Scaling Most of the current learning algorithms were discovered more than twenty-five years ago, so why did it take so long for them to have an impact on the real world? With the computers and labeled data that were available to researchers in the 1980s, it was only possible to demonstrate proof of principle on toy problems.
Structures: Or Why Things Don't Fall Down by J. E. Gordon
Problems of this kind keep cropping up in biology, and it was most interesting to find that Professor Steve Wainwright of Duke University, who is concerned with worms, has derived, quite independently, just the same mathematics as we had worked out twenty years or so before for use in rocketry.* On inquiry, I find that in this case too the inspiration arose, via Professor Biggs, from the bias cut. The invention of the bias cut brought fame to Mile Vionnet in the world of haute couture. She lived to a great age and died, not long ago, at ninety-eight, quite unaware of her very significant contributions to space travel, to military technology and to the biomechanics of worms. Shear stress is only tension and compression acting at ±45° – and vice versa A very little further thought about plate webs in beams and lattice webs in trusses and about bias-cut nighties makes it obvious that a shear stress is merely tension or compression (or both) acting at 45°, and that, furthermore, there is a shear stress acting at 45° to every tension and compression stress.
Discover Greece Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
Vathia (Click here) IMAGE BROKER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Athens Athens ( Click here ) is a magnificent mash-up of the ancient and the contemporary. Beneath the facades of venerable landmarks, the city teems with life and creativity. Galleries and clubs hold exhibitions, performances and installations. Trendy restaurants and humble tavernas rustle up fine fare. Ubiquitous cafes fill with cool locals whose styles run from punk rock to haute couture. Discos and bars abound and swing deep into the night. GEORGE TSAFOS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Ancient Architecture ACROPOLIS Visually arresting monument of the ancient world. ( Click here ) METEORA Mystical monasteries perched atop towering rock pinnacles. ( Click here ) ANCIENT DELPHI The atmospheric centre of the Ancient Greek world. (Click here) MONEMVASIA A magical medieval village resting like a giant sandcastle in the sea. ( Click here ) ANCIENT DELOS Magnificent, sacred ruins set on a tiny island at the centre of the Cyclades. ( Click here ) Santorini There’s more to Santorini (Click here) than sunsets, but this remarkable island, shaped by the nuclear fire of prehistoric eruptions, has made the celebratory sunset its own.
Western USA by Lonely Planet
airport security, Albert Einstein, Apple II, Asilomar, back-to-the-land, Bay Area Rapid Transit, Burning Man, California gold rush, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, Charles Lindbergh, Chuck Templeton: OpenTable:, Donner party, East Village, edge city, Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, Frank Gehry, global village, Golden Gate Park, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, haute cuisine, illegal immigration, intermodal, Joan Didion, Kickstarter, Loma Prieta earthquake, Mahatma Gandhi, Mars Rover, Maui Hawaii, off grid, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, South of Market, San Francisco, starchitect, stealth mode startup, stem cell, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, supervolcano, trade route, transcontinental railway, Upton Sinclair, urban planning, women in the workforce, Works Progress Administration, young professional, Zipcar
Momentum HANDICRAFTS (www.ourmomentum.com; 1625 Pearl St; 10am-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) The kitchen sink of unique global gifts – Zulu wire baskets, fabulous scarves from India, Nepal and Ecuador – all handcrafted and purchased at fair value from disadvantaged artisans. Every item purchased provides a direct economic lifeline to the artists. Common Threads CLOTHING (www.commonthreadsboulder.com; 2707 Spruce St; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Vintage shopping at its most haute couture, this fun place is where to go for secondhand Choos and Prada purses. The shop is a pleasure to browse, with clothing organized by color and type on visually aesthetic racks, just like a big-city boutique. Boulder Bookstore BOOKS (www.boulderbookstore.indiebound.com; 1107 Pearl St) Boulder’s favorite indie bookstore has a huge travel section downstairs and hosts readings and workshops. Information Boulder Visitor Center ( 303-442-2911; www.bouldercoloradousa.com; 2440 Pearl St; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-4pm Fri) Offers information and internet access.
Next door, the Palazzo (www.palazzo.com; 3325 Las Vegas Blvd S) exploits a variation on the Italian theme to a less interesting effect: despite the caliber of the Shoppes at the Palazzo and the star-studded dining – including exhilarating ventures by culinary heavyweights Charlie Trotter, Emeril Legasse and Wolfgang Puck – the luxurious casino floor and common areas somehow exude a lackluster brand of excitement. Caesars Palace CASINO (www.caesarspalace.com; 3570 Las Vegas Blvd S) Quintessentially Las Vegas, Caesars Palace is a Greco-Roman fantasyland featuring marble reproductions of classical statuary, including a not-to-be-missed 4-ton Brahma shrine near the front entrance. Towering fountains, goddess-costumed cocktail waitresses and the swanky haute-couture Forum Shops all ante up the glitz. Paris Las Vegas CASINO (www.parislasvegas.com; 3655 Las Vegas Blvd S) Evoking the gaiety of the City of Light, Paris Las Vegas strives to capture the essence of the grand dame by re-creating her landmarks. Fine likenesses of the Opéra, the Arc de Triomphe, the Champs-Élysées, the soaring Eiffel Tower and even the Seine frame the property. Mirage CASINO (www.mirage.com; 3400 Las Vegas Blvd S) With a tropical setting replete with a huge atrium filled with jungle foliage and soothing cascades, the Mirage captures the imagination.
Unnatural Causes by Richard Shepherd
Or we just stared across the fields to the ocean as it conjured up dramatic storms from its depths. I did not carry out a single post-mortem. And, here we had a social life. We had always been too busy for this before but now we had friends. It mattered little that we were much younger than most of them. We simply slotted into the society that had been ready-made for us by Maggie. So what if she was ageing a little now? She was still at every party, a woman with haute couture dresses bulging from every wardrobe in almost every bedroom in the house. Something delicious bubbling on the stove, a gin and tonic always at the ready and she was never without an admiring circle of friends. It felt good to be among them, good to be part of a community. The children visited often. For me there may have been no more post-mortems, but there was lots of interesting work. I was writing my textbook on forensic pathology.
Cities Are Good for You: The Genius of the Metropolis by Leo Hollis
Airbnb, banking crisis, Berlin Wall, Boris Johnson, Broken windows theory, Buckminster Fuller, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, cellular automata, clean water, cloud computing, complexity theory, congestion charging, creative destruction, credit crunch, Credit Default Swap, crowdsourcing, Deng Xiaoping, digital map, East Village, Edward Glaeser, Enrique Peñalosa, Firefox, Frank Gehry, Geoffrey West, Santa Fe Institute, Gini coefficient, Google Earth, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, Hernando de Soto, housing crisis, illegal immigration, income inequality, informal economy, Internet of things, invisible hand, Jane Jacobs, Kickstarter, knowledge economy, knowledge worker, Long Term Capital Management, M-Pesa, Mahatma Gandhi, Mark Zuckerberg, Masdar, mass immigration, megacity, negative equity, new economy, New Urbanism, Occupy movement, openstreetmap, packet switching, Panopticon Jeremy Bentham, place-making, Ray Oldenburg, Richard Florida, sharing economy, Silicon Valley, Skype, smart cities, smart grid, spice trade, Steve Jobs, technoutopianism, the built environment, The Chicago School, The Death and Life of Great American Cities, The Great Good Place, the High Line, The Spirit Level, The Wisdom of Crowds, Thomas Malthus, trade route, traveling salesman, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl, walkable city, white flight, Y2K, Yom Kippur War
He introduced me to a Swedish couple, who were in the city, like me, for the weekend. There was also Pat, who wrote the subtitles for French films and was trying to get a novel published; Suzi, a South African architecture student who had spent the day in Montparnasse Cemetery; two sisters, Stef and Pam, who had been coming to Jim’s for over fifteen years and conducted tours for rich Americans around the ateliers of the leading haute couture designers and fabric shops. Throughout it all, Jim himself sat on his stool and surveyed the scene he had created. When I asked him why he still did this, despite one heart attack and another health scare, he admitted that he was still interested in people, still wanted to share with strangers and make friends, that this making of a community, for however brief amount of time, was a reason for living.
End of the World Blues by Jon Courtenay Grimwood
he said, stepping back to let Kit clamber over a tiny generator on his way to the window. It was beginning to look as if British intelligence provided one of the biggest markets for crappy accommodation in the city. “This is Alan,” said the Brigadier, but Kit’s attention was on the neon girl. She was retro kitsch, the kind of icon that had begun to spring up all over East Shinjuku and the bits of Roppongi not yet colonised by haute couture and impossibly expensive estate agents. “What’s the latest?” asked Amy, sounding brightly professional. The one advantage of the SUV over the Volvo was that Kit and Amy had been able to sit with the suitcase flat between them. In the last hour Amy hadn’t spoken one word to Kit; hadn’t even looked at him, come to that. “That CTV camera above the door is live,” said Alan. “We’ve jacked a feed.
Remix by John Courtenay Grimwood
Now the rain made it hard even to see this edge of the river and, even if it hadn’t, the Institut was gone, eaten down to a brittle rim like a badly rusted tin can. The higher the iron content the more virulent the viral attack. And the Institut Bonaparte had been walled with pure steel. Habit made her fold the black Dior skirt and drape it over the back of a Louis XVII chair. Just as habit made her slip her cloak onto an old-fashioned hanger. Too late, of course. There were clothes and then there was haute couture. Smart fabric or not, Dior had never intended that skirt to be worn in the needle’s eye of a thunder storm. All the same, Clare tried to smooth out the skirt’s creases before stepping out of her shot-silk slip. That got treated to a hanger, too. And then, stripped naked, Lady Clare stepped into a sonic cubicle, punching the setting up to maximum. It took two seconds to get clean, but she stayed inside the Matsui cubicle for a full half-minute, which was what the cubicle had left in its powerpack.
Moscow, December 25th, 1991 by Conor O'Clery
Anton Chekhov, Berlin Wall, central bank independence, Dissolution of the Soviet Union, Donald Trump, Doomsday Clock, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, haute couture, land reform, Mikhail Gorbachev, Ronald Reagan, Sinatra Doctrine, The Chicago School
She made a stunning impression in London in 1984, when she appeared at an evening function in a stylish white satin dress and gold lame sandals with chain straps, and held forth on English literature with British ministers. In Washington she discussed world affairs with prominent American women at the Washington home of socialite Pamela Harrison. Woman’s Own magazine in the United Kingdom made her “Woman of the Year” in 1987. The masses inevitably resented her celebrity. The Russian women who endured harsh living conditions and had no access to haute couture disliked her as much as the Russian men reared in the domestic tradition of domostroi, the practice dating back to Ivan the Terrible under which husbands dominated and wives obeyed. Her elegance was a reminder of the existence of special shops with luxury clothes that were inaccessible to ordinary citizens. She became the subject of frequent gossip. Gorbachev complained in his memoirs that she supposedly went shopping with an American Express card when they didn’t know what an American Express card was, and that she allegedly spent large sums on fashion to compete with Nancy Reagan when all her clothes were made by seamstress Tamara Makeeva in Moscow.
Machines of Loving Grace: The Quest for Common Ground Between Humans and Robots by John Markoff
"Robert Solow", A Declaration of the Independence of Cyberspace, AI winter, airport security, Apple II, artificial general intelligence, Asilomar, augmented reality, autonomous vehicles, basic income, Baxter: Rethink Robotics, Bill Duvall, bioinformatics, Brewster Kahle, Burning Man, call centre, cellular automata, Chris Urmson, Claude Shannon: information theory, Clayton Christensen, clean water, cloud computing, collective bargaining, computer age, computer vision, crowdsourcing, Danny Hillis, DARPA: Urban Challenge, data acquisition, Dean Kamen, deskilling, don't be evil, Douglas Engelbart, Douglas Engelbart, Douglas Hofstadter, Dynabook, Edward Snowden, Elon Musk, Erik Brynjolfsson, factory automation, From Mathematics to the Technologies of Life and Death, future of work, Galaxy Zoo, Google Glasses, Google X / Alphabet X, Grace Hopper, Gunnar Myrdal, Gödel, Escher, Bach, Hacker Ethic, haute couture, hive mind, hypertext link, indoor plumbing, industrial robot, information retrieval, Internet Archive, Internet of things, invention of the wheel, Jacques de Vaucanson, Jaron Lanier, Jeff Bezos, job automation, John Conway, John Markoff, John Maynard Keynes: Economic Possibilities for our Grandchildren, John Maynard Keynes: technological unemployment, John von Neumann, Kevin Kelly, knowledge worker, Kodak vs Instagram, labor-force participation, loose coupling, Marc Andreessen, Mark Zuckerberg, Marshall McLuhan, medical residency, Menlo Park, Mitch Kapor, Mother of all demos, natural language processing, new economy, Norbert Wiener, PageRank, pattern recognition, pre–internet, RAND corporation, Ray Kurzweil, Richard Stallman, Robert Gordon, Rodney Brooks, Sand Hill Road, Second Machine Age, self-driving car, semantic web, shareholder value, side project, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, Singularitarianism, skunkworks, Skype, social software, speech recognition, stealth mode startup, Stephen Hawking, Steve Ballmer, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, Steven Levy, Stewart Brand, strong AI, superintelligent machines, technological singularity, Ted Nelson, telemarketer, telepresence, telepresence robot, Tenerife airport disaster, The Coming Technological Singularity, the medium is the message, Thorstein Veblen, Turing test, Vannevar Bush, Vernor Vinge, Watson beat the top human players on Jeopardy!, Whole Earth Catalog, William Shockley: the traitorous eight, zero-sum game
The arrival of machine intelligence had been forecast for decades in the writings of science-fiction writers, so much so that when the technology actually began to appear, it seemed anticlimactic. In the late 1980s, anyone wandering through the cavernous Grand Central Station in Manhattan would have noticed that almost a third of the morning commuters were wearing Sony Walkman headsets. Today, of course, the Walkmans have been replaced by Apple’s iconic bright white iPhone headphones, and there are some who believe that technology haute couture will inevitably lead to a future version of Google Glass—the search engine maker’s first effort to augment reality—or perhaps more ambitious and immersive systems. Like the frog in the pot, we have been desensitized to the changes wrought by the rapid increase and proliferation of information technology. The Walkman, the iPhone, and Google Glass all prefigure a world where the line between what is human and who is machine begins to blur.
What's Left?: How Liberals Lost Their Way by Nick Cohen
anti-communist, Ayatollah Khomeini, Berlin Wall, Boycotts of Israel, British Empire, centre right, Etonian, failed state, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Farzad Bazoft, feminist movement, haute couture, kremlinology, liberal world order, light touch regulation, mass immigration, moral hazard, Naomi Klein, plutocrats, Plutocrats, post-industrial society, profit motive, Ralph Nader, road to serfdom, Ronald Reagan, Scientific racism, sensible shoes, the scientific method, union organizing, upwardly mobile, Yom Kippur War
‘Faced with the choice between serfdom and economic insecurity the masses everywhere would probably choose outright serfdom, at least if it were called by some other name,’ he wrote in 1944. Looking back to the America of the early Sixties, two sharp English writers noted that George W. Bush’s grandfather was a Republican who would never have described himself a conservative. Meanwhile: the Kennedy administration wore its civilised European values on its sleeve (literally so in the case of the haute-coutured first lady). The president liked to point out that he had spent a year at the London School of Economics as a student of a prominent Marxist, Harold Laski. ‘These without doubt are the years of the liberal,’ John Kenneth Galbraith wrote, somewhat smugly, in 1964. ‘Almost everyone now so describes himself.’ Right the way through to the Seventies, the greatest prestige attached to ‘experts’ in public service.
The Joy of Clojure by Michael Fogus, Chris Houser
The authors assume you’re fearless and, importantly, equipped with a search engine. You’ll want to have Google handy as you go through the examples. The authors blaze through many of the classics of both functional programming and industry programming in a whirlwind tour of Clojure that feels at times more like a class-five tropical storm. You’ll learn fast! Our industry, the global programming community, is fashion-driven to a degree that would embarrass haute couture designers from New York to Paris. We’re slaves to fashion. Fashion dictates the programming languages people study in school, the languages employers hire for, the languages that get to be in books on shelves. A naive outsider might wonder if the quality of a language matters a little, just a teeny bit at least, but in the real world fashion trumps all. So nobody could be more surprised than I that a Lisp dialect has suddenly become fashionable again.
Targeted: The Cambridge Analytica Whistleblower's Inside Story of How Big Data, Trump, and Facebook Broke Democracy and How It Can Happen Again by Brittany Kaiser
Albert Einstein, Amazon Mechanical Turk, Asian financial crisis, Bernie Sanders, bitcoin, blockchain, Boris Johnson, Burning Man, call centre, centre right, Chelsea Manning, clean water, cognitive dissonance, crony capitalism, Dominic Cummings, Donald Trump, Edward Snowden, Etonian, haute couture, illegal immigration, Julian Assange, Mark Zuckerberg, Menlo Park, Nelson Mandela, off grid, open borders, Renaissance Technologies, Robert Mercer, rolodex, sentiment analysis, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, Skype, Snapchat, statistical model, the High Line, the scientific method, WikiLeaks, young professional
In the center of the room, however, was a cake. It was about two feet tall, shaped in the likeness of Trump, with a big head of bright yellow hair and a face more sour than celebratory. It was said to have been made out of hundreds of pounds of marzipan, and the woman from New Jersey who had whipped it up from scratch stood next to it with pride. Throughout the room was a varied display of haute couture, cheap cocktail dresses, and a sea of MAGA hats. People carried signs that read, “Women for Trump” or “Hispanics for Trump” or “Bikers for Trump.” Soon, the highboy tables became littered with empty beer bottles. VIPS such as Alexander were still at Trump Tower with Donald, the Mercers, Kellyanne, and anyone with a Trump last name, plus Jared Kushner, but in the ballroom and at the cash bar was a motley crew of high and low Trump staffers, political demi-luminaries, and big-ticket donors.
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test by Tom Wolfe
Asilomar, Bonfire of the Vanities, Buckminster Fuller, edge city, Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, Golden Gate Park, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, Menlo Park, Ronald Reagan, stakhanovite, Stewart Brand, strikebreaker, the scientific method, Thorstein Veblen
The guy brings charges against Kesey for ruining his engine and Kesey ends up in juvenile court before a judge and tries to tell him how it is at Gregg's Drive-In on a Saturday night: The Life—that feeling—The Life—the late 1940s early 1950s American Teenage Drive-in Life was precisely what it was all about—but how could you tell anyone about it? But of course!—the feeling—out here at night, free, with the motor running and the adrenaline flowing, cruising in the neon glories of the new American night—it was very Heaven to be the first wave of the most extraordinary kids in the history of the world—only 15, 16, 17 years old, dressed in the haute couture of pink Oxford shirts, sharp pants, snaky half-inch belts, fast shoes—with all this Straight-6 and V-8 power underneath and all this neon glamour overhead, which somehow tied in with the technological superheroics of the jet, TV, atomic subs, ultrasonics—Postwar American suburbs—glorious world! and the hell with the intellectual bad-mouthers of America's tailfin civilization... They couldn't know what it was like or else they had it cultivated out of them—the feeling—to be very Superkids !
The Edifice Complex: How the Rich and Powerful--And Their Architects--Shape the World by Deyan Sudjic
Ayatollah Khomeini, Berlin Wall, British Empire, call centre, colonial rule, Columbine, cuban missile crisis, dematerialisation, Deng Xiaoping, Dissolution of the Soviet Union, Donald Trump, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, haute cuisine, megastructure, Mikhail Gorbachev, new economy, New Urbanism, oil shock, Peter Eisenman, Ronald Reagan, Socratic dialogue, urban planning, urban renewal, V2 rocket, Victor Gruen
Miralles was an architect of what might be called an old-fashioned kind; his work was full of symbolic and representational qualities. He had a romantic vision that, had he lived, might have encouraged others in an exploration of these issues. When he died, his career cut cruelly short at just 45, he was on the edge of becoming a major figure, but without having yet completed the Edinburgh parliament that would demonstrate that he offered much more than promise. This is haute-couture architecture: every door, every handle, every window, every light fitting has been designed as if it were a one-off, and it was almost as difficult to build as a Gaudí cathedral. Miralles designed spaces that surprise you as you move from one to another, and where you can suddenly find yourself looking up at the sky, or across another part of the parliament complex to see the landscape beyond.
The Science of Fear: How the Culture of Fear Manipulates Your Brain by Daniel Gardner
Atul Gawande, availability heuristic, Black Swan, Cass Sunstein, citizen journalism, cognitive bias, cognitive dissonance, Columbine, correlation does not imply causation, Daniel Kahneman / Amos Tversky, David Brooks, Doomsday Clock, feminist movement, haute couture, hindsight bias, illegal immigration, Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), lateral thinking, mandatory minimum, medical residency, Mikhail Gorbachev, millennium bug, moral panic, mutually assured destruction, nuclear winter, placebo effect, Ralph Nader, RAND corporation, Ronald Reagan, social intelligence, Stephen Hawking, Steven Levy, Steven Pinker, the scientific method, Tunguska event, uranium enrichment, Y2K, young professional
And since our brains really make us what we are, the conclusion to be drawn from this is unavoidable and a little unsettling. We are cavemen. Or cavepersons, if you prefer. Whatever the nomenclature, we sophisticated moderns living in a world of glass, steel, and fiber optics are no different, in a fundamental sense, than the prehistoric humans for whom campfires were the latest in high tech and bison hides were haute couture. This is the central insight of evolutionary psychology—a field that came into prominence only in the last thirty years, although Darwin himself saw the implications of evolution for the study of human thoughts and actions. Our minds evolved to cope with what evolutionary psychologists call the “Environment of Evolutionary Adaptation.” If we wish to understand the workings of the mind today, we have to first examine the lives of ancient humans on the savannas of Africa.
Framing Class: Media Representations of Wealth and Poverty in America by Diana Elizabeth Kendall
Bernie Madoff, blue-collar work, Bonfire of the Vanities, call centre, David Brooks, declining real wages, Donald Trump, employer provided health coverage, ending welfare as we know it, fixed income, framing effect, Georg Cantor, Gordon Gekko, greed is good, haute couture, housing crisis, illegal immigration, income inequality, mortgage tax deduction, new economy, payday loans, Ponzi scheme, Ray Oldenburg, Richard Florida, Ronald Reagan, Saturday Night Live, telemarketer, The Great Good Place, Thorstein Veblen, trickle-down economics, union organizing, upwardly mobile, urban planning, working poor
Since the above description of Thrash’s parties was written, she has also planned major events to raise big bucks for UNICEF and the American Friends of the Louvre, as described here: When Houston’s Becca Cason Thrash sends out an invitation with a dress code of “High Black Tie,” you better follow directions, and the guests attending her 9781442202238.print.indb 36 2/10/11 10:46 AM Twenty-Four-Karat Gold Frames 37 gala benefiting American Friends of the Louvre did not disappoint. Fans and friends of Becca—a group ranging from Princess Napoleon to Charlie Rose— flew in from Miami, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Washington, D.C., New York, Toronto, Paris, and all over Texas to raise funds and glasses of Dom Pérignon in her spectacular 20,000-square-foot, glass-walled home. The highlight: a recreation of last month’s Christian Lacroix Haute Couture show that was presented on a mirrored runway built on top of an indoor swimming pool. Said Becca: “I had to take out a wall of my house to accommodate everyone!”58 The privileged women who frequently plan these social or charitable events for the wealthy and well connected also believe that this sort of media coverage is crucial for the success of the event.59 Evidence of this is found in columns like “Boldface Names” in the New York Times, in the lifestyle sections of local newspapers, and in neighborhood newspapers (such as Park Cities People in Dallas) and on numerous websites (such as Style.com).
Microtrends: The Small Forces Behind Tomorrow's Big Changes by Mark Penn, E. Kinney Zalesne
addicted to oil, affirmative action, Albert Einstein, Ayatollah Khomeini, Berlin Wall, big-box store, call centre, corporate governance, David Brooks, Donald Trump, extreme commuting, Exxon Valdez, feminist movement, glass ceiling, God and Mammon, Gordon Gekko, haute couture, hygiene hypothesis, illegal immigration, immigration reform, index card, Isaac Newton, job satisfaction, labor-force participation, late fees, life extension, low cost airline, low skilled workers, mobile money, new economy, RAND corporation, Renaissance Technologies, Ronald Reagan, Rosa Parks, Rubik’s Cube, stem cell, Stephen Hawking, Steve Jobs, Superbowl ad, the payments system, Thomas L Friedman, upwardly mobile, uranium enrichment, urban renewal, War on Poverty, white picket fence, women in the workforce, Y2K
In the crafts marketplace itself, there is likely to be a growing demand for richer colors, jazzier patterns, and “fashion yarns,” which are fuzzier, furrier, lacier, and more metallic than the ones that composed your old gray crew neck from L.L. Bean. According to the Craft Yarn Council, between 2004 and 2005 alone, fashion yarn purchases rose 56 percent. Within the world of fashion, we should expect more knits on the runway, and more handmade looks in haute couture. I, for one, didn’t know they could make hand-knit bikini tops—but then, until recently, I also didn’t know that ten new Knitting “Meet-Ups” were forming per week in cities all over America. However, the real significance of Teen Knitters is that techie clichés notwithstanding, many of today’s kids have longer attention spans than we give them credit for; and they are passionate about creating—not just cyberprofiles, but also tangible, useful products that mark their presence in the world.
Jennifer Morgue by Stross, Charles
call centre, correlation does not imply causation, disintermediation, dumpster diving, Etonian, haute couture, interchangeable parts, Maui Hawaii, MITM: man-in-the-middle, mutually assured destruction, planetary scale, RFID, Silicon Valley, Skype, slashdot, stem cell, telepresence, traveling salesman, Turing machine
He's got a high enough security clearance to be aware what it's capable of, and his people are trying to suborn various intelligence organizations, like in Darmstadt. He's playing some kind of endgame and you don't like the smell and neither does the Black Chamber, which explains me and Ramona. Am I right so far" Angleton nods minutely. "I should remind you that Billington is extraordinarily rich and has fingers in a surprising number of pies. For example, by way of his current wife — his third — he owns a cosmetics and haute couture empire; in addition to IT corporations he owns shipping, aviation, and banking interests. Your assignment — and Ramona's — is to get close to Billington. Ideally you should contrive to get yourself invited aboard his yacht, the Mabuse, while Ramona remains in touch with your backup team and the local head of station. Your technical backups are Pinky and Brains, your muscle backup is Boris, and you're to liaise with our Caribbean station chief, Jack Griffin.
Culture and Prosperity: The Truth About Markets - Why Some Nations Are Rich but Most Remain Poor by John Kay
"Robert Solow", Albert Einstein, Asian financial crisis, Barry Marshall: ulcers, Berlin Wall, Big bang: deregulation of the City of London, business cycle, California gold rush, complexity theory, computer age, constrained optimization, corporate governance, corporate social responsibility, correlation does not imply causation, Daniel Kahneman / Amos Tversky, David Ricardo: comparative advantage, Donald Trump, double entry bookkeeping, double helix, Edward Lloyd's coffeehouse, equity premium, Ernest Rutherford, European colonialism, experimental economics, Exxon Valdez, failed state, financial innovation, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, George Akerlof, George Gilder, greed is good, Gunnar Myrdal, haute couture, illegal immigration, income inequality, industrial cluster, information asymmetry, intangible asset, invention of the telephone, invention of the wheel, invisible hand, John Meriwether, John Nash: game theory, John von Neumann, Kenneth Arrow, Kevin Kelly, knowledge economy, light touch regulation, Long Term Capital Management, loss aversion, Mahatma Gandhi, market bubble, market clearing, market fundamentalism, means of production, Menlo Park, Mikhail Gorbachev, money: store of value / unit of account / medium of exchange, moral hazard, Myron Scholes, Naomi Klein, Nash equilibrium, new economy, oil shale / tar sands, oil shock, Pareto efficiency, Paul Samuelson, pets.com, popular electronics, price discrimination, price mechanism, prisoner's dilemma, profit maximization, purchasing power parity, QWERTY keyboard, Ralph Nader, RAND corporation, random walk, rent-seeking, Right to Buy, risk tolerance, road to serfdom, Ronald Coase, Ronald Reagan, second-price auction, shareholder value, Silicon Valley, Simon Kuznets, South Sea Bubble, Steve Jobs, telemarketer, The Chicago School, The Market for Lemons, The Nature of the Firm, the new new thing, The Predators' Ball, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, Thorstein Veblen, total factor productivity, transaction costs, tulip mania, urban decay, Vilfredo Pareto, Washington Consensus, women in the workforce, yield curve, yield management
The end of Jean-Marie Messier came first, however, and a new management team was appointed to dismantle his empire and repay its crushing debts. A more successful model of international diversification is the oil services company Schlumberger, which probably also provides any smart card you have in your purse or pocket. Other global companies based in France-such as L'Oreal and LVMH distribute the productsfragrances, wines, haute couture-traditionally associated with France. Carrefour is, after Wal-Mart, the world's second-largest retailer; Aventis makes many of the pills in the bags with the green cross; St. Gobain makes glass and other construction materials for a global marketplace: look at the label etched on your car's windshield. But the French economy depends much more on small and medium-size enterprises than Britain or the United States, and although there are tiresome regulatory obstacles and fiscal burdens to establishing new businesses, there are many of them.
The Future Is Asian by Parag Khanna
3D printing, Admiral Zheng, affirmative action, Airbnb, Amazon Web Services, anti-communist, Asian financial crisis, asset-backed security, augmented reality, autonomous vehicles, Ayatollah Khomeini, barriers to entry, Basel III, blockchain, Boycotts of Israel, Branko Milanovic, British Empire, call centre, capital controls, carbon footprint, cashless society, clean water, cloud computing, colonial rule, computer vision, connected car, corporate governance, crony capitalism, currency peg, deindustrialization, Deng Xiaoping, Dissolution of the Soviet Union, Donald Trump, energy security, European colonialism, factory automation, failed state, falling living standards, family office, fixed income, flex fuel, gig economy, global reserve currency, global supply chain, haute couture, haute cuisine, illegal immigration, income inequality, industrial robot, informal economy, Internet of things, Kevin Kelly, Kickstarter, knowledge worker, light touch regulation, low cost airline, low cost carrier, low skilled workers, Lyft, Malacca Straits, Mark Zuckerberg, megacity, Mikhail Gorbachev, money market fund, Monroe Doctrine, mortgage debt, natural language processing, Netflix Prize, new economy, off grid, oil shale / tar sands, open economy, Parag Khanna, payday loans, Pearl River Delta, prediction markets, purchasing power parity, race to the bottom, RAND corporation, rent-seeking, reserve currency, ride hailing / ride sharing, Ronald Reagan, Scramble for Africa, self-driving car, Silicon Valley, smart cities, South China Sea, sovereign wealth fund, special economic zone, stem cell, Steve Jobs, Steven Pinker, supply-chain management, sustainable-tourism, trade liberalization, trade route, transaction costs, Travis Kalanick, uber lyft, upwardly mobile, urban planning, Washington Consensus, working-age population, Yom Kippur War
One of the latest trends spreading across American food trucks and malls is “Ko-Mex” (Korean-Mexican) fusion, which began with Korean Americans in Seoul longing for the Mexican flavors of their American childhood, another testament to how reverse migration and ethnic intermingling produces novelty. In the world of fashion, Asia is now holding its own and expanding—both alone and through smart partnerships with European incumbents. The Japanese icon Issey Miyake began his career with Givenchy in Paris before launching his own labels, which brought Eastern styles to global prominence. Today Asian fashion is prominent from streetwear to haute couture. Uniqlo is a widely known Japanese label that has earned a large and loyal global following, while Shanghai Tang, which revives Chinese styles from a century ago, was bought early on by the Swiss luxury group Richemont and carried worldwide. Superdry is a highly successful British brand that uses gibberish Japanese characters on its clothing to enhance its unique appeal. The more the phenomenon of “Fashion Week” spreads from Dubai, Mumbai, and Shanghai, the more aggressively local designers compete to gain attention and customers in Asia, Europe, and beyond.
Sardinia Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
Antica Enoteca CagliaritanaWINE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 66 93 86; Scalette Santa Chiara 21) Wine buffs will enjoy exploring the racks at this specialist wine shop off Piazza Yenne. You can have orders sent anywhere in the world except the US (customs difficulties, apparently). Sorelle PireddaFASHION ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %334 21 57 266, 349 55 00 528 ; www.sorellepiredda.com; Piazza San Giuseppe 4) For haute couture with history, visit this oh-so-stylish Castello boutique. It’s graced with the imaginative designs of the Piredda sisters, whose slinky evening dresses, capes and intricate shawls are inspired by ancient Sardinian motifs and traditional costume. Loredana MandasJEWELLERY ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sicilia 31; h9.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat) For something very special, seek out this jewellery workshop.
The Fire and the Darkness by Sinclair McKay
Meanwhile, matching this sophisticated feel in the old town – the Altstadt – near the railway station was the elegant and sumptuous Prager Strasse, a shopping street that, even in the vice-grip of the total-war economy, still exerted a strong pull on the imaginations and desires of many local people. In a curious way, the windows of Prager Strasse’s shops in earlier years had not only afforded glimpses of flashing beauty – richly coloured silks of indigo and emerald, chic haute couture, voluminous luxurious furs, the hard dazzle of jewellery – but also suggested a form of social stability: exquisite assets that unlike the cruelly inflationary German currency of the 1920s would keep their value, thus also buying their owners security and safety. There was no such security for many store owners, though; since the passing of the 1935 Nuremberg Laws forcing anti-Semitism deep into the constitutional heart of German life, business people had learned bitterly that such assets could be snatched – expropriated by the state.
Backstage Passes & Backstabbing Bastards: Memoirs of a Rock 'N' Roll Survivor by Al Kooper
I even tried again in 1997, but it was just as disastrous. Hey, you can’t do everything! As I mentioned previously, I was touring quite a bit at this time. One particular scenario comes to mind: We were in some town, early seventies, and I lost control and took some wild-looking-dreadlocked-ring-in-her-nose young woman back to my room that night. This was in the days when one in six hundred young women opted for this particular haute couture. We were scheduled to leave at eight the next morning and drive to the airport. I tried to sneak this young woman out without the other musicians seeing her, but it didn’t work. They were giggling like girlie-men! As we got into the station wagon for the half-hour-haul to the airport, the giggling continued and I turned around to them and said: “I don’t want to hear one word from you guys on this trip, okay?
Southwest USA Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
1919 Motor Transport Corps convoy, Albert Einstein, Berlin Wall, Burning Man, carbon footprint, Columbine, Donner party, El Camino Real, friendly fire, G4S, haute couture, haute cuisine, housing crisis, illegal immigration, immigration reform, indoor plumbing, Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), low earth orbit, off grid, place-making, supervolcano, trade route, transcontinental railway, walkable city, Works Progress Administration, X Prize
When it debuted in 1966, this Greco-Roman fantasyland captured the world’s attention with its full-size marble reproductions of classical statuary and its cocktail waitresses clothed as goddesses. Bar girls continue to roam the gaming areas in skimpy togas, and faux-ancient Muses guard the high-roller rooms. The Colosseum showroom hosts mega-concerts featuring international icons like chanteuse Celine Dion. Don’t skip a stroll through the curious mix of haute couture and cheesy Roman spectacle at the Forum Shops. Mirage CASINO (www.mirage.com; 3400 Las Vegas Blvd S) With a tropical setting replete with a huge atrium filled with jungle foliage and soothing cascades, the Mirage captures the imagination. Circling the atrium is a vast Polynesian-themed casino, which places gaming areas under separate roofs to evoke intimacy, including a popular high-limit poker room.
Fortunately, outside southern Arizona, other regions of the Southwest have retained the live-and-let-live philosophy. REGIONAL IDENTITY For the most part, residents of the Southwest are more easygoing than their counterparts on the East and West Coasts. They tend to be friendlier too. Even at glitzy restaurants in the biggest cities (with the exception of Las Vegas), you’ll see more jeans and cowboy boots than haute couture. Chat with a local at a low-key pub in Arizona or Colorado, and they’ll likely tell you they’re from somewhere else. They moved out here for the scenery, unpolluted air and slower pace of life. Folks in this region consider themselves environmentally friendly. Living a healthy lifestyle is important, and many residents like to hike, mountain bike, ski and ride the rapids. They might have money, but you won’t necessarily know it.
Civilization: The West and the Rest by Niall Ferguson
Admiral Zheng, agricultural Revolution, Albert Einstein, Andrei Shleifer, Atahualpa, Ayatollah Khomeini, Berlin Wall, BRICs, British Empire, business cycle, clean water, collective bargaining, colonial rule, conceptual framework, Copley Medal, corporate governance, creative destruction, credit crunch, David Ricardo: comparative advantage, Dean Kamen, delayed gratification, Deng Xiaoping, discovery of the americas, Dissolution of the Soviet Union, European colonialism, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Francisco Pizarro, full employment, Hans Lippershey, haute couture, Hernando de Soto, income inequality, invention of movable type, invisible hand, Isaac Newton, James Hargreaves, James Watt: steam engine, John Harrison: Longitude, joint-stock company, Joseph Schumpeter, Kickstarter, Kitchen Debate, land reform, land tenure, liberal capitalism, Louis Pasteur, Mahatma Gandhi, market bubble, Martin Wolf, mass immigration, means of production, megacity, Mikhail Gorbachev, new economy, Pearl River Delta, Pierre-Simon Laplace, probability theory / Blaise Pascal / Pierre de Fermat, profit maximization, purchasing power parity, quantitative easing, rent-seeking, reserve currency, road to serfdom, Ronald Reagan, savings glut, Scramble for Africa, Silicon Valley, South China Sea, sovereign wealth fund, special economic zone, spice trade, spinning jenny, Steve Jobs, Steven Pinker, The Great Moderation, the market place, the scientific method, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, Thomas Kuhn: the structure of scientific revolutions, Thomas Malthus, Thorstein Veblen, total factor productivity, trade route, transaction costs, transatlantic slave trade, undersea cable, upwardly mobile, uranium enrichment, wage slave, Washington Consensus, women in the workforce, World Values Survey
The results of were published in 1941 as USDA Miscellaneous Publication 454, Women’s Measurements for Garment and Pattern Construction. Standardized sizes allowed civilian clothes, as well as uniforms, to be mass-produced and sold ‘off the peg’ or ‘ready to wear’. Within a matter of a few decades, it was only the clothes of the wealthy elite that were tailor-made: men’s suits from Savile Row and women’s haute couture from Paris and Milan. In the post-war United States the consumer society became a phenomenon of the masses, significantly diminishing the sartorial differences between the social classes. This was part of a generalized levelling up that followed the war. In 1928 the top 1 per cent of the population had received nearly 20 per cent of income. From 1952 until 1982 it was consistently less than 9 per cent, below the equivalent share going to the top 1 per cent in France.85 Better educational opportunities for the returning soldiers coupled with a wave of house-building in the suburbs translated into a marked improvement in the quality of life.
Second World: Empires and Influence in the New Global Order by Parag Khanna
"Robert Solow", Admiral Zheng, affirmative action, anti-communist, Asian financial crisis, Bartolomé de las Casas, Branko Milanovic, British Empire, call centre, capital controls, central bank independence, cognitive dissonance, colonial rule, complexity theory, continuation of politics by other means, crony capitalism, Deng Xiaoping, different worldview, Dissolution of the Soviet Union, Donald Trump, Edward Glaeser, energy security, European colonialism, facts on the ground, failed state, flex fuel, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, friendly fire, Gini coefficient, global reserve currency, global supply chain, haute couture, Hernando de Soto, illegal immigration, income inequality, informal economy, invisible hand, Islamic Golden Age, Khyber Pass, Kickstarter, knowledge economy, land reform, low cost airline, low skilled workers, mass immigration, means of production, megacity, Monroe Doctrine, Nelson Mandela, oil shale / tar sands, oil shock, open borders, open economy, Parag Khanna, Pax Mongolica, Pearl River Delta, pirate software, Plutonomy: Buying Luxury, Explaining Global Imbalances, Potemkin village, price stability, race to the bottom, RAND corporation, reserve currency, rising living standards, Ronald Reagan, Silicon Valley, Skype, South China Sea, special economic zone, stem cell, Stephen Hawking, Thomas L Friedman, trade route, trickle-down economics, uranium enrichment, urban renewal, Washington Consensus, women in the workforce
And most fundamentally, both people and nations obey Abraham Maslow’s “hierarchy of needs,” prioritizing deficit needs (the physiological demands of satisfying hunger and thirst), then security needs (shelter and stability), and finally being needs (the sense of belonging, love, respect and recognition).34 Democratic governance falls into this latter category, for meeting basic survival and economic needs is what gives people the means to participate actively in democratic politics.35 Pure democracy is like haute couture: One can admire it, but it is not practical for everyday use. The world’s most compelling ideology is neither democracy nor capitalism nor any other ism, but success. All societies pursue the one goal Adam Smith identified in his 1759 Theory of Moral Sentiments: “bettering our condition.” Lacking absolute knowledge, people think relationally: What is the next best thing or status one can achieve?
Rewired: The Post-Cyberpunk Anthology by James Patrick Kelly, John Kessel
back-to-the-land, Columbine, dark matter, Extropian, Firefox, gravity well, haute couture, Internet Archive, pattern recognition, phenotype, post-industrial society, price stability, Silicon Valley, slashdot, Stephen Hawking, technological singularity, telepresence, the scientific method, Turing test, urban renewal, Vernor Vinge, wage slave, Y2K, zero day
But Japheth said, “Fair enough,” and pocketed the plastic tubes the monkey handed over. “You’re no trader,” said Soma, or started to, but heard the words slur out of him in an unintelligible mess of vowels. One spring semester, when he’d already been a TA for a year, he was tapped to work on the interface. No more need for scholarships. “Painter!” shouted Japheth. Soma looked up. There was a Crow dressed in Alley haute couture standing in front of him. He tried to open his head to call the Tennessee Highway Patrol. He couldn’t find his head. “Give him one of these yellow ones,” said a monkey. “They’re good for fugues.” “Painter!” shouted Japheth again. The grip on Soma’s shoulder was like a vise. Soma struggled to stand under his own power. “I’m forgetting something.” “Hah!” said Japheth. “You’re remembering. Too soon for my needs, though.
The Companion Guide to London by David Piper, Fionnuala Jervis
The establishments that deal in these commodities are, in comparison with the huge stores that fringe Mayfair along Regent Street and Oxford Street, relatively small-premised, select and specialist, though some, like the car shops in Berkeley Square or fashion shops like Fenwick, have long threatened to bloom into emporia. And now there are others jostling for more than a discreet door and window, forcing dealers away or at best upstairs; the flagships of haute couture, Versace, Prada and their like, in spacious sparse palaces. Yet an air of exclusivity persists. In Oxford Street you may at times feel that you are merely a permutation of a range of standard measurements; if your particular permutation cannot be matched – be fitted – this will not be due to any failure in the supply offered by the shops – it will be your fault; in fact, you may feel, you are a freak, abnormal.
The China Mission: George Marshall's Unfinished War, 1945-1947 by Daniel Kurtz-Phelan
Once there, he cultivated diplomats, officers, and journalists. Reporters in need of copy relished his potent and articulate analysis, which no matter how misleading still contrasted favorably with the also misleading banalities of officious government spokesmen. Even when you knew he was lying, it was said, you could not help liking him. Officers gave him the code name Mainbocher, after a French-American line of haute couture; Mao was Moby, after the white whale. Over dinner, Zhou talked about books, world events, Paris, dropping French phrases into his tentative English conversation. He was a good dancer and drinker. Liquor brought out a flirtatious streak, but he never seemed to get drunk. Americans slapped him on the back and called him Joe. When he wanted to flatter them, he told them they were beginning to truly understand China.
Countdown: Our Last, Best Hope for a Future on Earth? by Alan Weisman
air freight, Albert Einstein, anti-communist, Ayatollah Khomeini, Berlin Wall, Bretton Woods, British Empire, call centre, carbon footprint, clean water, colonial rule, David Attenborough, demographic transition, Deng Xiaoping, El Camino Real, epigenetics, Filipino sailors, Haber-Bosch Process, happiness index / gross national happiness, haute couture, housing crisis, ice-free Arctic, Ignaz Semmelweis: hand washing, illegal immigration, immigration reform, Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), land reform, liberation theology, load shedding, Louis Pasteur, Mahatma Gandhi, megacity, Menlo Park, new economy, oil shale / tar sands, out of africa, Pearl River Delta, planetary scale, Ponzi scheme, race to the bottom, Ronald Reagan, Satyajit Das, Silicon Valley, South China Sea, stem cell, Stephen Hawking, Stewart Brand, unemployed young men, upwardly mobile, urban sprawl, Whole Earth Catalog, WikiLeaks
By sheer numbers, women contriving to conceal the least amount of hair under gauzy hijabs overwhelm morality police trying to enforce shariah dress code. They are further undermined by hundreds of stores selling hair extensions, makeup, wigs, hair clasps, and lingerie—the latter is even sold in the gift shop at the Ayatollah Khomeini’s tomb. Smuggling networks widely assumed to be run by the Ayatollah’s Revolutionary Guards help keep stores stocked with European and New York haute couture—sluiced, like the BMWs and Lamborghinis of north Tehran, through portals like Dubai. Even during sanctions, Tehran, like Havana, thrums with energy. But it lives on time borrowed from mountain springs recharged by rain. In 1900, they easily supported the 150,000 Tehranis. Counting the 3 million workers who commute here daily, 15 million drain that water today, a hundred-fold increase in just over a century.
A Life in Secrets by Sarah Helm
The couple had travelled the length and breadth of central France posing as an agricultural salesman and his assistant but in reality recruiting followers, sabotaging railway lines, and receiving arms drops. Over the first five months of 1943, 240 containers of arms and explosives were dropped to Prosper's cells by aircraft flying from England. By late May 1943 Vera was preparing two further women to join subcircuits of the Prosper network. One, a Frenchwoman named Vera Leigh, who before the war worked in an haute couture hat shop in Paris, had proved an excellent trainee. “Dead keen” and “the best shot in the group,” said her instructors. However, the second woman due to join Suttill was causing Vera some anxiety; this was the young WAAF officer Nora Inayat Khan. So large was Suttill's network by now that he had urgently requested a further wireless operator (he already had two) to work with a suborga-niser and to act as backup to his own wireless man.
Lonely Planet Colombia (Travel Guide) by Lonely Planet, Alex Egerton, Tom Masters, Kevin Raub
airport security, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, colonial rule, Columbian Exchange, Downton Abbey, El Camino Real, Francisco Pizarro, friendly fire, glass ceiling, haute couture, land reform, low cost airline, low cost carrier, race to the bottom, sustainable-tourism, urban sprawl
Playa Taroa Slide down a towering sand dune onto Colombia’s most beautiful – and emptiest – beach in Punta Gallinas Capurganá & Sapzurro La Miel, on the Panamanian side, and Colombia’s Playa Soledad are palm-strewn patches of paradise straddling the border Playa Morromico Flanked by waterfalls crashing down from jungle-covered mountains, this secluded private beach is one of Chocó’s most romantic destinations PNN Tayrona Preserved and very popular, this national park has serene golden-sand bays and cerulean waters Playa Guachalito This is one of the Pacific coast’s most idyllic beaches, flush with orchids, heliconias and wild jungle encroaching its gray sands Playa Blanca A novel 3015m-high white-sand lakeside beach deep in the Andes Capurganá and Sapzurro JESS KRAFT/SHUTTERSTOCK © Month by Month Top Events Carnaval de Barranquilla, February Feria de las Flores, August Semana Santa in Popayán, March or April Festival de Música del Pacífico Petronio Álvarez, August Carnaval de Blancos y Negros, January January Colombia's equatorial position means temperatures fluctuate by altitude, not season, so almost anytime is a good time to visit. January could be considered ideal for its dissipating holiday crowds coupled with lingering festivals and parties. zCarnaval de Blancos y Negros Pasto's uproarious post-Christmas bash, originating during slavery times, sees drunken crowds throwing grease, talcum powder, flour and chalk on each other until everyone is coughing up powdery mucus and doused in gunk. Leave the haute couture at the hotel. February The Andean region remains pleasant and Cartagena almost drought-stricken, making February a great time to beach-hop along the Caribbean coast. With kids back in school and domestic merrymakers returned to the grind, Colombia is tranquilo. zFiesta de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria A solemn procession is held in Cartagena on 2 February to honor the town's patron saint at the Convento de la Popa, during which the faithful carry lit candles.
Space Odyssey: Stanley Kubrick, Arthur C. Clarke, and the Making of a Masterpiece by Michael Benson
Alistair Cooke, Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic, British Empire, en.wikipedia.org, haute couture, index card, Internet Archive, low earth orbit, Marshall McLuhan, mutually assured destruction, RAND corporation, Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence
The messages crystallized something of the ongoing transition from the old-school Hollywood way of doing things, in which hired-gun directors simply followed orders, and the emerging new paradigm of freelance directors and production companies making distribution deals with studios that granted them unprecedented levels of control. Other personnel were being signed on as well, and on September 30 Victor Lyndon—a man well known in British film circles for his snazzy attire—informed Caras that Savile Row haute couture designer Hardy Amies was going to create the film’s costumes. Famous as the dressmaker to the Queen, Amies was something of a queen himself but, as acting head of the Special Operations Branch for Belgium during much of World War II, had acquired a reputation as a cold-blooded plotter of assassinations, responsible for numerous successful schemes to kill Nazis and their sympathizers. Although not as celebrated as some other alliances between noted directors and clothiers—Yves Saint Laurent’s outfitting of Catherine Deneuve in Luis Buñuel’s Belle de Jour comes to mind—Amies and his design director, Ken Fleetwood, would play an important part in establishing 2001’s look.
Tribe of Mentors: Short Life Advice From the Best in the World by Timothy Ferriss
23andMe, A Pattern Language, agricultural Revolution, Airbnb, Albert Einstein, Bayesian statistics, bitcoin, Black Swan, blockchain, Brownian motion, Buckminster Fuller, Clayton Christensen, cloud computing, cognitive dissonance, Colonization of Mars, corporate social responsibility, cryptocurrency, David Heinemeier Hansson, dematerialisation, don't be evil, double helix, effective altruism, Elon Musk, Ethereum, ethereum blockchain, family office, fear of failure, Gary Taubes, Geoffrey West, Santa Fe Institute, Google Hangouts, Gödel, Escher, Bach, haute couture, helicopter parent, high net worth, In Cold Blood by Truman Capote, income inequality, index fund, Jeff Bezos, job satisfaction, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Kevin Kelly, Lao Tzu, Law of Accelerating Returns, Lyft, Mahatma Gandhi, Marc Andreessen, Marshall McLuhan, Mikhail Gorbachev, minimum viable product, move fast and break things, move fast and break things, Naomi Klein, non-fiction novel, Peter Thiel, profit motive, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Ray Kurzweil, Saturday Night Live, side project, Silicon Valley, Skype, smart cities, smart contracts, Snapchat, Steve Jobs, Steven Pinker, Stewart Brand, TaskRabbit, Tesla Model S, too big to fail, Turing machine, uber lyft, web application, Whole Earth Catalog, Y Combinator
Four books later, I know it’s just a ghost, and I can blow right through it without looking back. “You can be a juicy ripe peach and there’ll still be someone who doesn’t like peaches.” Dita Von Teese TW/IG/FB: @DitaVonTeese dita.net DITA VON TEESE is the biggest name in burlesque in the world since Gypsy Rose Lee (born 1911). Dita is credited with bringing the art form back into the spotlight. She is renowned for her iconic martini glass act and dazzling haute-couture striptease costumes adorned with hundreds of thousands of Swarovski crystals. This “Burlesque Superheroine” (Vanity Fair) is the performer of choice at high-profile events for designers such as Marc Jacobs, Christian Louboutin, Louis Vuitton, Chopard, and Cartier. She is the author of the New York Times bestseller Your Beauty Mark: The Ultimate Guide to Eccentric Glamour and has a namesake lingerie collection available internationally at prominent retailers.
Lonely Planet London by Lonely Planet
Boris Johnson, British Empire, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, congestion charging, discovery of the americas, East Village, Etonian, financial independence, haute couture, haute cuisine, Isaac Newton, John Snow's cholera map, low cost airline, Mahatma Gandhi, market design, place-making, post-work, Skype, trade route, transatlantic slave trade, urban renewal, Winter of Discontent
Super-stylish menswear, suits and tailored shirts are all laid out on open shelves in this walk-in closet of a shop. Smith also does womenswear with its sharp tailoring for an androgynous, almost masculine, look. Lucy in Disguise Vintage Offline map Google map (www.lucyindisguiselondon.com; 10-13 Kings Street WC2; Covent Garden) Opened in 2010 and owned by singer Lily Allen, Lucy in Disguise is a high-end vintage boutique. The collection is a mix of haute couture (Yves St Laurent and Chanel numbers are not unusual) and unbranded garments. The large number of 1980s outfits can sometimes make you feel like you’ve walked into the dressing room of a Dallas or Santa Barbara filmset. Space NK Beauty Offline map Google map (www.spacenk.co.uk; 32 Shelton St WC2; Covent Garden) Space NK specialises in skincare products and stocks such brands as Dr Hauschka, Eve Lom, Chantecaille, Kiehl’s and Phyto, as well as anti-ageing products from the likes of 24/7 and Dr Sebagh.
Switzerland by Damien Simonis, Sarah Johnstone, Nicola Williams
Albert Einstein, bank run, car-free, clean water, Frank Gehry, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, haute cuisine, indoor plumbing, Kickstarter, low cost airline, low cost carrier, Nelson Mandela, offshore financial centre, the market place, trade route, young professional
TEXTILMUSEUM St Gallen has long been an important hub of the Swiss textile industry, and the Textil- S T G A L L E N C A N T O N • • S t G a l l e n 253 museum (%071 222 17 44; www.textilmuseum.ch; adult/ student Sfr5/2; h10am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun, plus 10am-5pm 1st Wed of every month) is its most interesting. It traces the history of clothmaking in the town, but isn’t all linen and old lace. Every season, there’s also a selection of the latest fabrics waiting to be snapped up by haute-couture houses in Italy. Sleeping St Gallen is a business town, and frequent exhibitions and conferences can make beds scarce and prices high. Busy times are usually April and October. SYHA Hostel (%071 245 47 77; www.youthhostel.ch /st.gallen; Jüchstrasse 25; dm Sfr27, s/d/q per person Sfr46.50/36/31, r per person Sfr34; hreception closed 9.30am-5pm, hostel closed mid-Dec–Mar) Signposts mark the 15-minute walk from the Old Town to this modern, quality hostel.
Frommer's Cuba by Claire Boobbyer
You’ll find guayaberas for sale all over; some of the typically touristy gift shops even carry them. One good place to shop for a guayabera is El Quitirín, Calle Obispo and San Ignacio (& 7/862-0810). For a more upscale selection, head over to Miramar and shop at La Maison (see below); Le Select, Avenida 5 and Calle 28 ( & 7/207-9681); or Joyería Quinta y 16 (see “Jewelry,” below). La Maison This minicomplex in an old M iramar mansion is the home of C uban haute coutur e, but that ’s not saying much. S everal stor es spr ead ar ound the rambling 09_345429-ch05.indd 122 11/20/08 8:37:10 PM converted home featur e a limited range of men ’s and women ’s fashions, je welry, and 123 accessories. There’s a nightly runway fashion show (CUC$10/US$11/£5.40), as well as a modest cabar et sho w, combined with the fashion sho w on w eekends. Calle 16 no . 701 (corner of Av. 7), Miramar, Playa. & 7/204-1543.
Colorado by Lonely Planet
big-box store, California gold rush, carbon footprint, Columbine, East Village, haute couture, haute cuisine, Kickstarter, payday loans, Steve Wozniak, trade route, transcontinental railway, young professional
Chelsea WOMENS CLOTHING ( 303-447-3760; www.chelseabella.com; 2088 Broadway St; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; 208) A touch of New York style off the Pearl St Mall, this women’s high-fashion boutique has been bringing labels like James Perse to Boulder for 10 years, and it still has some of the sweetest, if priciest, threads in town. Common Threads VINTAGE CLOTHING ( 303-449-5431; www.commonthreadsboulder.com; 2707 Spruce St; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; 205, BOLT) Vintage shopping at its most haute couture, this fun place is where to go for secondhand Choos and Prada purses. Prices are higher than your run-of-the-mill vintage shop, but clothes, shoes and bags are always in good condition, and the designer clothing is guaranteed authentic. The shop is a pleasure to browse, with clothing organized by color and type on visually aesthetic racks, just like a big-city boutique. Momentum HANDICRAFTS ( 303-440-7744; www.ourmomentum.com; 1625 Pearl St; 10am-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; 204) Owned by Kevin and Jenny Napatow, an enthusiastic young couple committed to socially responsible and environmentally friendly business practices, Momentum is one of those shops that makes you feel good about spending money.
Pauline Frommer's London: Spend Less, See More by Jason Cochran
Bonfire of the Vanities, Boris Johnson, British Empire, congestion charging, David Attenborough, Etonian, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, Isaac Newton, John Snow's cholera map, Kickstarter, low cost airline, Nelson Mandela, Skype, urban planning
., E2; % 020/7613-3636; www. beyondretro.com; Tube: Bethnal Green) is a haunt of the poor and stylish, who can put together an off-margin look without overdrawing. It has also opened a second branch in Soho (58-59 Great Marlborough St.; Tube: Oxford Circus). Dover Street Market 5 (17-18 Dover St., W1; % 020/7518-0680; www.dover streetmarket.com; closed Sun; Tube: Green Park) is a trendy, fashion-first multidesigner concept, heavy on pretentious industrial architecture, that fuses haute couture (Comme des Garçons, Boudicca) with multimedia art installations, all in a six-story department store–like space with an organic cafe on the top floor. The third floor hosts an outpost of L.A.’s famous vintage store Decades. One of the first boutiques to move into Upper Street, Diverse (294 Upper St., N1; % 020/7359-8877; Tube: Angel) keeps stock changing even as it spotlights white-hot labels such as Marc Jacobs and Paper Denim and Cloth.
Jim Henson: The Biography by Brian Jay Jones
In the months leading up to the December release, Jim was determined to build a buzz about the film, making a presentation at the World Science Fiction Convention in Chicago, producing a behind-the-scenes documentary, and opening Dark Crystal–related exhibits at the Craft Gallery in Los Angeles and at New York’s Lincoln Center Library. Most ambitious, perhaps, he had also asked the costumers in the London workshop to create a Dark Crystal Clothing Collection—described by its designers as “dramatic haute couture”—to be sold exclusively through four high-end boutiques, including Jim’s favorite, Liberty’s of London. The fashion line ended up being more notable for its flashy window displays, which used puppets and props from the film, than for its sales—but for Jim, who appreciated craftsmanship and design, the fun had been more in the doing than in the selling. In early December, Jim, Oz, and producer Gary Kurtz began a worldwide press tour to promote The Dark Crystal, set to premiere in New York in mid-December.
I Want My MTV: The Uncensored Story of the Music Video Revolution by Craig Marks, Rob Tannenbaum
Bernie Sanders, Bob Geldof, Chuck Templeton: OpenTable:, crack epidemic, crowdsourcing, haute couture, Live Aid, pre–internet, Ronald Reagan, Saturday Night Live, sensible shoes, Skype, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, Steven Levy, upwardly mobile
MICK KLEBER: Capitol had just signed Donny Osmond, and we put out his first “adult” album, Soldier of Love. Although Donny was one of the most unlikely MTV artists imaginable, they agreed to support a “Sacred Emotion” video if it worked for their audience. My objective was to erase the perception of Donny as a cheesy pretty boy. A talented young woman named Paula Walker started to make a great video featuring a troupe of exotic models in haute couture lingerie. Donny’s manager came in from Utah with a colleague who was introduced as a production adviser. The adviser said, “I know sexy, and this isn’t it.” I said, “You’re an expert on sexy?” He said, “I’m a Mormon with six kids. We have more sex with beautiful women than anybody.” Things got tense enough that I had to cancel the shoot. Now I had half the original budget to work with. I thought that it was going to take a miracle to bring back Donny Osmond.
Merchants of Truth: The Business of News and the Fight for Facts by Jill Abramson
23andMe, 4chan, Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, Alexander Shulgin, Apple's 1984 Super Bowl advert, barriers to entry, Bernie Madoff, Bernie Sanders, Charles Lindbergh, Chelsea Manning, citizen journalism, cloud computing, commoditize, corporate governance, creative destruction, crowdsourcing, death of newspapers, digital twin, diversified portfolio, Donald Trump, East Village, Edward Snowden, Ferguson, Missouri, Filter Bubble, future of journalism, glass ceiling, Google Glasses, haute couture, hive mind, income inequality, information asymmetry, invisible hand, Jeff Bezos, Joseph Schumpeter, Khyber Pass, late capitalism, Marc Andreessen, Mark Zuckerberg, move fast and break things, move fast and break things, Nate Silver, new economy, obamacare, Occupy movement, performance metric, Peter Thiel, phenotype, pre–internet, race to the bottom, recommendation engine, Robert Mercer, Ronald Reagan, Saturday Night Live, self-driving car, sentiment analysis, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley ideology, Silicon Valley startup, skunkworks, Snapchat, social intelligence, social web, Steve Jobs, Steven Levy, technoutopianism, telemarketer, the scientific method, The Wisdom of Crowds, Tim Cook: Apple, too big to fail, WikiLeaks
I went to Paris to see Suzy Menkes, our international fashion critic, who thought her feature stories were not getting enough attention. Suzy was an old-school newspaper star whose upturned forelock was her trademark. I had a cartoon of her drawn to add visibility to her articles. She was extremely knowledgeable about many things, an eccentric treasure, the kind of older savant being tossed out by other news organizations. I accompanied her to a Chanel haute couture show at the Palais Royale in Paris, a display of gilded excess worthy of Marie Antoinette. Golden told me that Suzy was responsible for 25 percent of the revenue of the International New York Times, but no editor had paid homage. I called this aspect of the job “diva management,” and I quickly learned that it would require tending to divas and gods of both genders. But before I fully got the hang of it, Politico published an in-depth and strident criticism of my personality and my leadership style, asserting I was losing support among the troops.
The Bin Ladens: An Arabian Family in the American Century by Steve Coll
American ideology, anti-communist, Berlin Wall, borderless world, Boycotts of Israel, British Empire, business climate, colonial rule, Donald Trump, European colonialism, Fall of the Berlin Wall, financial independence, forensic accounting, global village, haute couture, intangible asset, Iridium satellite, Khyber Pass, low earth orbit, margin call, new economy, offshore financial centre, oil shock, RAND corporation, Ronald Reagan, Saturday Night Live, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, urban planning, Yogi Berra
“I have a baby sister,” Salem Bin Laden explained, “and she would like to learn to fly.”1 Without boasting, exactly, Salem made it clear over dinner that he had a great deal of money and that he was looking for partners in America who could provide a wide variety of services—not only piloting lessons but also business services, particularly the acquisition of cars and consumer goods for the royal family in Saudi Arabia. Afterward, Don Sowell told Jim Bath, “It’s either an Alice-in-Wonderland thing, or it may be the biggest opportunity of a lifetime.”2 The oil embargo transformed America into a shopping mall and vacation resort for many wealthy Saudis. Europe might be fine for skiing, yachting, jewelry shopping, and haute couture, but if you wanted to play in open spaces and find the latest in electronics and toys, there was no substitute for America. Salem, of course, did not initially know—and as the years passed he would never seem to care—that Panama City was not a particularly fashionable destination. If anything, he seemed drawn to its lack of pretension. After his dinner with Sowell, he flew into town regularly.
Italy by Damien Simonis
active transport: walking or cycling, airport security, bike sharing scheme, Bonfire of the Vanities, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, clean water, congestion charging, discovery of the americas, Frank Gehry, haute couture, illegal immigration, Kickstarter, large denomination, low cost airline, low cost carrier, Murano, Venice glass, pension reform, period drama, Peter Eisenman, Skype, spice trade, starchitect, sustainable-tourism, trade route, urban planning, urban sprawl, women in the workforce
Return to beginning of chapter GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Most European and other international flights use Malpensa airport (www.sea-aeroportimilano.it), 50km northwest of the city. The majority of domestic and a handful of European flights use the more convenient Linate airport (www.sea-aeroportimilano.it), 7km east of the city centre. For flight information, call 02 7485 2200 (both airports). * * * FASHION CAPITAL Milan outflanked Florence (and Rome) to become the country’s haute-couture capital in the late 1960s. Nowadays, the world’s top designers unveil their women’s collections in February/March and September/October, while men’s fashion hits the runways in January and June/July. Where there are fashion shows, there is shopping. Gucci moved to town from Florence in the 1960s, and its flagship store ushered in what is now known as the Quadrilatero d’Oro (Golden Quad; Map), a quadrangle of pedestrian streets bordered by Via della Spiga, Via Sant’Andrea, Via Monte Napoleone and Via Alessandro Manzoni.
Its charming Belvedere Caffé (coffee €3, tea with biscotti €5, panino €3), which is set in a loggia overlooking the Florentine skyline, is a wonderful spot for a light lunch or afternoon tea. Inside the villa is the Museo Bardini ( 055 263 85 99; www.bardinipeyron.it, in Italian; adult/concession €6/4; 10am-6pm Wed-Sun Apr-Sep, to 4pm Wed-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar), home to a collection of Roberto Capucci—designed haute couture and host to other temporary exhibitions. From here, you can return to the Boboli Gardens on the same ticket or exit at Via de’ Bardi. PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO Turn your back on the bevy of ticky-tacky souvenir stalls and take in the soaring city panorama from Piazzale Michelangelo (Map), pierced by one of Florence’s two David copies. The square is a 10-minute uphill walk along the winding route that scales the hillside from the river and Piazza Giuseppe Poggi.
France (Lonely Planet, 8th Edition) by Nicola Williams
active transport: walking or cycling, back-to-the-land, bike sharing scheme, British Empire, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, Charles Lindbergh, Columbine, double helix, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, haute cuisine, Henri Poincaré, Honoré de Balzac, illegal immigration, industrial robot, information trail, Jacquard loom, Joseph-Marie Jacquard, Kickstarter, Louis Blériot, Louis Pasteur, low cost airline, low cost carrier, Mahatma Gandhi, means of production, Murano, Venice glass, pension reform, post-work, QWERTY keyboard, ride hailing / ride sharing, Saturday Night Live, Silicon Valley, Skype, Sloane Ranger, supervolcano, trade route, urban renewal, urban sprawl, V2 rocket
Smaller shops often shut all day Monday; other days, their proprietors may simply close from noon to around 2pm for a long lunch. Many larger stores hold nocturnes (late nights) on Thursdays, remaining open until around 10pm. For Sunday shopping, the Champs-Élysées, Montmartre, the Marais and Bastille areas are the liveliest. Winter soldes (sales) – during which many shops extend their hours – start mid-January; summer ones, in the second week of June. Clothing & Fashion HAUTE COUTURE & DESIGNER WEAR Most of the major French couturiers and ready-to-wear designers have their own boutiques in the capital, but it’s also possible to see labelled, ready-to-wear collections at major department stores such as Le Printemps, Galeries Lafayette and Le Bon Marché. The Right Bank, especially the so-called Triangle d’Or (Map; Franklin D Roosevelt or Alma Marceau, 1er & 8e) formed by av Montaigne and av Georges V, rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (Map; Madeleine or Concorde, 8e) and its eastern extension, rue St-Honoré ( Tuileries), place des Victoires (Map; Bourse or Sentier, 1er & 2e) and the Marais’ rue des Rosiers (Map; St-Paul, 4e), is traditionally the epicentre of Parisian fashion, though St-Germain (Map; St-Sulpice or St-Germain des Prés) on the Left Bank can also claim a share of boutiques.
All mail to France must include the five-digit code postal (postcode/ZIP code), which begins with the two-digit number of the département. For French postcodes, see www.france-codepostal.fr/en or www.codeposte.com (in French). The notation ‘CEDEX’ after a town name simply means that mail sent to that address is collected at the post office, rather than delivered to the door. Return to beginning of chapter SHOPPING France is renowned for its luxury goods, particularly haute couture, high-quality clothing accessories (eg Hermès scarves), lingerie, perfume and cosmetics. However, such goods may not be any cheaper in France than at home. Soldes (sales) – held, by law, for three weeks in January and July – offer significant discounts and can be a gold mine for fashionistas. The budget-conscious should also look out for the words degriffés (name-brand products with the labels cut out) or dépôt-vente (ex-showroom garments sold at steep mark-downs).
Spain by Lonely Planet Publications, Damien Simonis
Atahualpa, business process, call centre, centre right, Colonization of Mars, discovery of the americas, Francisco Pizarro, Frank Gehry, G4S, glass ceiling, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, haute cuisine, illegal immigration, intermodal, Islamic Golden Age, land reform, large denomination, low cost airline, place-making, Skype, trade route, upwardly mobile, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl, Winter of Discontent, young professional
Fashion & Shoes Mercado de Fuencarral (Map; 91 521 41 52; Calle de Fuencarral 45; 11am-9pm Mon-Sat; Tribunal) Madrid’s home of alternative club-cool revels in reverse snobbery. It’s funky, grungy and filled with more torn T-shirts, black leather and silver studs than you’ll ever need. Sadly, it looks likely to be shut down and moved to Valencia in 2009. Check the web for more details. Camper (Map; 91 578 25 60; www.camper.es; Calle de Serrano 24; 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; Serrano) Spanish fashion is not all haute couture, and this world-famous cool and quirky shoe brand from Mallorca has shops all over Madrid. The designs are bowling-shoe chic, with colourful, fun styles that are all about comfort. There are other outlets throughout the city. Sara Navarro (Map; 91 576 23 24; www.saranavarro.com; Calle de Jorge Juan 22; 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; Velázquez) Spanish women love their shoes and, perhaps above all, they love Sara Navarro.
You’ll find small galleries and designer stores around the Macba art museum (Click here) on Carrer del Doctor Dou, Carrer d’Elisabets and Carrer dels Àngels (Map). The classiest concentration of galleries is on and around the short stretch of Carrer del Consell de Cent between Rambla de Catalunya and Carrer de Balmes (Map). Fashion Antonio Miró (Map; 93 487 06 70; www.antoniomiro.es; Carrer del Consell de Cent 349) Mr Miró is one of Barcelona’s haute-couture kings. He concentrates on light, natural fibres to produce smart, unpretentious men’s and women’s fashion. Custo Barcelona (Map; 93 268 78 93; www.custo-barcelona.com; Plaça de les Olles 7) Custo bewitches people the world over with a youthful, psychedelic panoply of women’s and men’s fashion. It has several branches around town. Red Market (Map; 93 218 63 33; Carrer de Verdi 20) Several funky fashion boutiques dot themselves along this street.
Lonely Planet China (Travel Guide) by Lonely Planet, Shawn Low
Albert Einstein, anti-communist, bike sharing scheme, carbon footprint, clean water, colonial rule, credit crunch, Deng Xiaoping, G4S, haute couture, haute cuisine, income inequality, indoor plumbing, Kickstarter, land reform, mass immigration, Pearl River Delta, place-making, Rubik’s Cube, Skype, South China Sea, special economic zone, sustainable-tourism, trade route, upwardly mobile, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl, women in the workforce, Xiaogang Anhui farmers, young professional
Dragonfly (Youting Baojian Huisuo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5403 9982; www.dragonfly.net.cn; 206 Xinle Road; massage per 60 mins ¥188; h10am-2am; mSouth Shaanxi Rd) Green Massage (Qinglai Yangshen GOOGLE MAP ; %5386 0222; www.greenmassage.com.cn; 58 Taicang Rd; massages & spa treatments ¥198-318; h10.30am-2am; mSouth Huangpi Rd) Cinemas Cathay TheatreCINEMA (Guotai Dianyingyuan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 870 Middle Huaihai Rd; tickets from ¥40; mSouth Shaanxi Rd) This 1932 art deco theatre is one of the cheaper and more centrally located French Concession cinemas. If you want to know if the film is in the original, ask if it's the yuanban version. 7Shopping From mega-malls to independent boutiques and haute couture, Shanghai is once again at the forefront of Chinese fashion and design. The Bund & People’s Square oShanghai Museum Art StoreGIFTS (Shanghai Bowuguan Yishupin Shangdian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 201 Renmin Ave; h9.30am-5pm; mPeople’s Sq) Attached to the Shanghai Museum and entered from East Yan’an Rd, this store offers refreshing variety from the usual tourist tat. Apart from the excellent range of books on Chinese art and architecture, there's a good selection of quality cards, prints and slides.
Admission charges for children and seniors at many sights are roughly half the regular price. HONG KONG MUSEUMS The Hong Kong Museum Pass (www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/attractions/museum-major.html), which allows multiple entries to all museums mentioned in this chapter, is available from participating museums. Museums are free on Wednesday. Hong Kong Island Central is where high finance meets haute couture, and mega deals are closed in towering skyscrapers. To the west is historically rich – and increasingly hip – Sheung Wan, while Admiralty with its few but excellent offerings lies to the east. The 800m-long Central–Mid-Levels Escalator ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdown 6-10am, up 10.30am-midnight), which begins on Queen’s Rd Central and finishes at Conduit Rd, is useful for negotiating the slopes of Sheung Wan.
USA's Best Trips by Sara Benson
Albert Einstein, California gold rush, car-free, carbon footprint, desegregation, diversified portfolio, Donald Trump, Donner party, East Village, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, Golden Gate Park, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, haute cuisine, if you build it, they will come, indoor plumbing, Kickstarter, lateral thinking, McMansion, mega-rich, New Urbanism, Ralph Waldo Emerson, rolodex, Ronald Reagan, side project, Silicon Valley, the High Line, transcontinental railway, trickle-down economics, urban renewal, urban sprawl, white flight, white picket fence, Works Progress Administration
* * * Aspen’s handsome, historic red-brick downtown is full of unique boutiques, classy saloons and gourmet eating establishments – no other Colorado town (not even Denver) can boast stand-alone Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada and Chanel stores. In early 2010 Aspen’s attitude was considered glamorous enough to merit its own reality show, the locally controversial Secrets of Aspen. Most of the haute-couture shopping is found on Galena St, Aspen’s version of Rodeo Dr. Visit Hopkins Ave, dubbed Restaurant Row, for posh eateries like Jimmy’s, the perfect place to bid your Colorado ski trip goodbye with top-shelf tequila. Aspen’s top spot for dinner and dancing, Jimmy’s is a steak and crab shack with an attitude, attracting a very A-list crowd. Settle into a well-loved booth, order your favorite cut of meat and check out the writing on the wall.
Jerusalem: The Biography by Simon Sebag-Montefiore
anti-communist, Ayatollah Khomeini, British Empire, California gold rush, Etonian, facts on the ground, haute couture, Khartoum Gordon, place-making, plutocrats, Plutocrats, sexual politics, spice trade, trade route, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl, white flight, Yom Kippur War
Not to be outdone, the mufti built his own hotel, the Palace, using Jewish contractors, on the site of the ancient Mamilla cemetery. When an American Jewess, a former nurse, opened the first beauty parlour, peasants stood and stared, expecting the mannequins in the window to speak. The best bookshop in town was run by Boulos Said, father of the intellectual Edward, and his brother near the Jaffa Gate, while the finest haute couture emporium belonged to Kurt May and his wife, typical German Jews fleeing Hitler. When he created the shop - the name 'May' was emblazoned above the door in Hebrew, English and Arab - he imported all the fixtures from Germany and soon it attracted the rich wives of Jewish businessmen and British proconsuls - and of Abdullah of Jordan. Emperor Haile Selassie and his entourage once took over the entire shop.
Coastal California Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
1960s counterculture, Airbnb, airport security, Albert Einstein, anti-communist, Apple II, Asilomar, back-to-the-land, Bay Area Rapid Transit, Burning Man, buy and hold, California gold rush, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, Donner party, East Village, El Camino Real, Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, flex fuel, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, Golden Gate Park, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, haute cuisine, income inequality, intermodal, Joan Didion, Kickstarter, Loma Prieta earthquake, low cost airline, Lyft, Mason jar, New Journalism, ride hailing / ride sharing, Ronald Reagan, Rosa Parks, Saturday Night Live, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, South of Market, San Francisco, starchitect, stealth mode startup, stem cell, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, Stewart Brand, trade route, transcontinental railway, uber lyft, Upton Sinclair, upwardly mobile, urban sprawl, Wall-E, white picket fence, Whole Earth Catalog, women in the workforce, working poor, Works Progress Administration, young professional, Zipcar
oSan Francisco OperaOPERA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %415-864-3330; www.sfopera.com; War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave; tickets $10-350; g21, 45, 47, 49, ZCivic Center, mVan Ness) Opera was SF's gold-rush soundtrack – and SF Opera rivals the Met, with world premieres of original works ranging from Stephen King's Dolores Claiborne to Girls of the Golden West, filmmaker Peter Sellars' collaboration with composer John Adams. Expect haute couture costumes and radical sets by painter David Hockney. Score $10 same-day standing-room tickets at 10am; check website for Opera Lab pop-ups. San Francisco BalletDANCE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 415-865-2000; www.sfballet.org; War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave; tickets $22-141; hticket sales 10am-4pm Mon-Fri; g5, 21, 47, 49, mVan Ness, ZCivic Center) The USA's oldest ballet company is looking sharp in more than 100 shows annually, from The Nutcracker (the US premiere was here) to modern originals.
Lonely Planet Greek Islands by Lonely Planet, Alexis Averbuck, Michael S Clark, Des Hannigan, Victoria Kyriakopoulos, Korina Miller
car-free, carbon footprint, credit crunch, eurozone crisis, G4S, haute couture, haute cuisine, low cost airline, low cost carrier, Norman Mailer, pension reform, period drama, sensible shoes, sustainable-tourism, trade route, transfer pricing, urban sprawl
CHRIS CHRISTO / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Chic Capital 2 Life in Athens (Click here) is a magnificent mash-up of the ancient and the contemporary. Beneath the majestic facades of venerable landmarks, the city teems with life and creativity – and Athenians love to get out and enjoy it all. Galleries and clubs hold the exhibitions, performances and installations of the city’s booming arts scene. Trendy restaurants and humble tavernas rustle up fine, fine fare. Ubiquitous cafes fill with stylin’ locals and moods run from punk rock to haute couture. Discos and bars abound…and swing deep into the night. GEORGE TSAFOS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Santorini Sunsets 3 There’s more to Santorini (Click here) than sunsets, but this remarkable island, shaped by the nuclear fire of prehistoric eruptions, has made the celebratory sunset its own. On summer evenings the cliff-top towns of Fira (Click here) and Oia (Click here) are packed with visitors awed by the vast blood-red canvas of the western sky as the sun struts its stuff.
Northern California Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
Airbnb, Apple II, Asilomar, back-to-the-land, Bay Area Rapid Transit, big-box store, Burning Man, buy and hold, California gold rush, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, clean water, dark matter, Donald Trump, Donner party, East Village, El Camino Real, Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, Frank Gehry, friendly fire, glass ceiling, Golden Gate Park, Google bus, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, haute cuisine, housing crisis, Joan Didion, Kickstarter, Loma Prieta earthquake, Lyft, Mahatma Gandhi, Mark Zuckerberg, Mason jar, McMansion, means of production, Port of Oakland, ride hailing / ride sharing, Ronald Reagan, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, South of Market, San Francisco, stealth mode startup, stem cell, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, Stewart Brand, the built environment, trade route, transcontinental railway, uber lyft, Upton Sinclair, urban sprawl, white picket fence, Whole Earth Catalog, women in the workforce, working poor, Works Progress Administration, young professional
oSan Francisco OperaOPERA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %415-864-3330; www.sfopera.com; War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave; tickets $10-350; g21, 45, 47, 49, ZCivic Center, mVan Ness) Opera was SF's gold-rush soundtrack – and SF Opera rivals the Met, with world premieres of original works ranging from Stephen King's Dolores Claiborne to Girls of the Golden West, filmmaker Peter Sellars' collaboration with composer John Adams. Expect haute couture costumes and radical sets by painter David Hockney. Score $10 same-day standing-room tickets at 10am; check website for Opera Lab pop-ups. San Francisco BalletDANCE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 415-865-2000; www.sfballet.org; War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave; tickets $22-141; hticket sales 10am-4pm Mon-Fri; g5, 21, 47, 49, mVan Ness, ZCivic Center) The USA's oldest ballet company is looking sharp in more than 100 shows annually, from The Nutcracker (the US premiere was here) to modern originals.
Gorbachev by William Taubman
active measures, affirmative action, Albert Einstein, anti-communist, Berlin Wall, British Empire, card file, conceptual framework, Deng Xiaoping, Donald Trump, Fall of the Berlin Wall, fear of failure, haute couture, indoor plumbing, means of production, Mikhail Gorbachev, Neil Kinnock, Potemkin village, RAND corporation, Ronald Reagan, Ronald Reagan: Tear down this wall, Saturday Night Live, Stanislav Petrov, trade liberalization, young professional
Musical interludes featured Valery Gergiev conducting the London Symphony Orchestra, baritone Dmitry Hvorostovsky, Shirley Bassey (singing “Diamonds Are Forever”), Paul Anka (singing “My Way,” whose lyrics he wrote, which became a signature number for Frank Sinatra), at least one crooning Spice Girl, plus assorted Russian performers and a German rock band, the Scorpions.92 Gorbachev with President Barack Obama and Vice President Joseph Biden at the White House, March 20, 2009. Actually, Gorbachev insists, he would have preferred to celebrate his eightieth quietly “in the company of family and close friends.” But his family persuaded him to go public, and his older granddaughter, Ksenia, who had studied public relations, entered European high society at the prestigious Crillon Haute Couture Ball in Paris in 1992, and married in style in Moscow in 2003, coproduced the London extravaganza. She and Gorbachev’s other granddaughter, Nastya, who studied journalism, appeared at a 2007 party in Moscow with Donatella Versace in gowns chosen by the designer. Ksenia and Nastya, like their mother, Irina, inherited Raisa Gorbachev’s elegant taste in clothes—but also her attachment to a close-knit family.
USA Travel Guide by Lonely, Planet
1960s counterculture, active transport: walking or cycling, Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, Albert Einstein, Asilomar, Bay Area Rapid Transit, Berlin Wall, Big bang: deregulation of the City of London, big-box store, bike sharing scheme, Bretton Woods, British Empire, Burning Man, California gold rush, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, Charles Lindbergh, Chuck Templeton: OpenTable:, cuban missile crisis, desegregation, Donald Trump, Donner party, East Village, edge city, El Camino Real, Fall of the Berlin Wall, feminist movement, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, global village, Golden Gate Park, Guggenheim Bilbao, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, haute cuisine, Hernando de Soto, Howard Zinn, illegal immigration, immigration reform, information trail, interchangeable parts, intermodal, jitney, Kickstarter, license plate recognition, Mars Rover, Mason jar, mass immigration, Maui Hawaii, McMansion, Menlo Park, Monroe Doctrine, new economy, New Urbanism, obamacare, off grid, Ralph Nader, Ralph Waldo Emerson, RFID, ride hailing / ride sharing, Ronald Reagan, Rosa Parks, Saturday Night Live, Silicon Valley, South of Market, San Francisco, starchitect, stealth mode startup, stem cell, supervolcano, the built environment, The Chicago School, the High Line, the payments system, trade route, transcontinental railway, union organizing, Upton Sinclair, upwardly mobile, urban decay, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl, walkable city, white flight, working poor, Works Progress Administration, young professional, Zipcar
Momentum HANDICRAFTS (www.ourmomentum.com; 1625 Pearl St; 10am-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) The kitchen sink of unique global gifts – Zulu wire baskets, fabulous scarves from India, Nepal and Ecuador – all handcrafted and purchased at fair value from disadvantaged artisans. Every item purchased provides a direct economic lifeline to the artists. Common Threads CLOTHING (www.commonthreadsboulder.com; 2707 Spruce St; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Vintage shopping at its most haute couture, this fun place is where to go for secondhand Choos and Prada purses. The shop is a pleasure to browse, with clothing organized by color and type on visually aesthetic racks, just like a big-city boutique. Boulder Bookstore BOOKS (www.boulderbookstore.indiebound.com; 1107 Pearl St) Boulder’s favorite indie bookstore has a huge travel section downstairs and hosts readings and workshops. Information Boulder Visitor Center ( 303-442-2911; www.bouldercoloradousa.com; 2440 Pearl St; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-4pm Fri) Offers information and internet access.
Next door, the Palazzo Offline map Google map (www.palazzo.com; 3325 Las Vegas Blvd S) exploits a variation on the Italian theme to a less interesting effect: despite the caliber of the Shoppes at the Palazzo and the star-studded dining – including exhilarating ventures by culinary heavyweights Charlie Trotter, Emeril Legasse and Wolfgang Puck – the luxurious casino floor and common areas somehow exude a lackluster brand of excitement. Caesars Palace CASINO Offline map Google map (www.caesarspalace.com; 3570 Las Vegas Blvd S) Quintessentially Las Vegas, Caesars Palace is a Greco-Roman fantasyland featuring marble reproductions of classical statuary, including a not-to-be-missed 4-ton Brahma shrine near the front entrance. Towering fountains, goddess-costumed cocktail waitresses and the swanky haute-couture Forum Shops Offline map Google map all ante up the glitz. Paris Las Vegas CASINO Offline map Google map (www.parislasvegas.com; 3655 Las Vegas Blvd S) Evoking the gaiety of the City of Light, Paris Las Vegas strives to capture the essence of the grand dame by re-creating her landmarks. Fine likenesses of the Opéra, the Arc de Triomphe, the Champs-Élysées, the soaring Eiffel Tower and even the Seine frame the property.
Hawaii by Jeff Campbell
airport security, big-box store, California gold rush, carbon footprint, centre right, Charles Lindbergh, commoditize, creative destruction, Drosophila, G4S, haute couture, land reform, lateral thinking, low-wage service sector, Maui Hawaii, polynesian navigation, risk/return, sustainable-tourism, upwardly mobile, urban sprawl, wage slave, white picket fence
Shopping Coconut Marketplace (www.coconutmarketplace.com; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) This touristy place feels like a throwback, a once-popular venue with too many vacant spaces. Amid midrange island attire, jewelry, T-shirts and gifts is one worthy stop: Ship Store Galleries. Bambulei (823-8641; www.bambulei.com; 4-369D Kuhio Hwy; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat) This irresistible women’s boutique is chock-full of feminine gear made for women who’ve outgrown the teenage surfer-chick look. The drapey sweaters, platform sandals and kimono-fabric accessories aren’t haute couture, but they’re affordable and unique. Also find vintage clothing and retro home decor. Tin Can Mailman (822-3009; www.tincanmailman.net; Kinipopo Shopping Village, 4-356 Kuhio Hwy; 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat) Brimming with rare books and antiques, this jam-packed shop will delight Hawaiiana collectors, with vintage LPs, aloha shirts, maps, photos, postcards, jewelry and other fascinating artifacts.
Surfaces and Essences by Douglas Hofstadter, Emmanuel Sander
affirmative action, Albert Einstein, Arthur Eddington, Benoit Mandelbrot, Brownian motion, cognitive dissonance, computer age, computer vision, dematerialisation, Donald Trump, Douglas Hofstadter, Ernest Rutherford, experimental subject, Flynn Effect, Georg Cantor, Gerolamo Cardano, Golden Gate Park, haute couture, haute cuisine, Henri Poincaré, Isaac Newton, l'esprit de l'escalier, Louis Pasteur, Mahatma Gandhi, mandelbrot fractal, Menlo Park, Norbert Wiener, place-making, Sapir-Whorf hypothesis, Silicon Valley, statistical model, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, theory of mind, upwardly mobile, urban sprawl, yellow journalism, zero-sum game
Thus we English speakers occasionally have déjà vu experiences that give us a frisson, we try to avoid faux pas (they make us feel so gauche), we indulge in hors d’œuvres, soupe du jour, apple pie à la mode, and even sorbet, and once in a while we wear décolletés (as long as they’re not too risqué), we sometimes take in avant-garde films, read an article about coups d’état caused by fin-de-siècle decadence while en route to a secret rendezvous whose raison d’être is to engage in a tête-à-tête, enjoy ogling a femme fatale who’s petite but very chic and all decked out in haute couture duds, we always seek the mot juste par excellence, have an idée fixe of one day having carte blanche to hobnob with the crème de la crème, and of course if we are nouveaux riches, we seek out objets d’art (not likely to be made of papier mâché) to decorate our pied-à-terre while indulging ourselves in dernier cri technology. Ooh la la! The French, meanwhile, leave their break (station wagon) in the parking (the parking lot), in order to go play foot and flipper (soccer and pinball), listen to jazz and rock on their hi-fi, place their rosbif and pop-corn in their caddie (shopping cart), and later that day they go to their dressing (clothes closet) in order to find a smoking, a pull, and a pair of baskets (a tuxedo, a sweater, and tennis shoes) to wear to a rallye (a high-society surprise-party), and last but not least, they read magazines about le marketing in order to be smart and they use shampooing in order to have a look that is very sexy in order to get a job very cool.
The Rough Guide to Ireland by Clements, Paul
Berlin Wall, bike sharing scheme, British Empire, Celtic Tiger, Columbine, digital map, East Village, haute couture, Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), Kickstarter, Murano, Venice glass, plutocrats, Plutocrats, Ronald Reagan, sustainable-tourism, the market place, trade route, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl
Retaining its original eighty-year-old shell, the museum now incorporates a bold modernist design and sheds light both literally and figuratively on subjects ranging from the North’s troubled history to Ireland’s geological past. The grand, open-plan ground floor, which also features a much-improved café, includes everything from an impressive dinosaur skeleton to contemporary haute couture. From here, the curators recommend heading up to the third floor to explore the art exhibits. The undoubted highlights here are the modern art collection (featuring Francis Bacon’s macabre Head II, Bridget Riley’s unnerving Cataract IV and Stanley Spencer’s thought-provoking The Betrayal), and the stunning landscapes and rural scenes by painters such as Belfast’s Sir John Lavery, plus Turner’s highly symbolic Dawn of Christianity.
Frommer's Hawaii 2009 by Jeanette Foster
airport security, California gold rush, Charles Lindbergh, glass ceiling, gravity well, haute couture, haute cuisine, indoor plumbing, Maui Hawaii, place-making, polynesian navigation, South China Sea, sustainable-tourism, urban renewal, urban sprawl, white picket fence, Yogi Berra
It’s a good sign that 95% of the beauty and bath products sold are made on Maui, and that includes Hawaiian Botanical Pikake shower gel, kukui and macadamia-nut oils, Hawaiian potpourris, mud masks with Hawaiian seaweed, and a spate of rejuvenating potions for hair and skin. Aromatherapy body oils and perfumes are popular, as are the handmade soaps and fragrances of torch ginger, plumeria, coconut, tuberose, and sandalwood. Scented candles in coconut shells, inexpensive and fragrant, make great gifts. 505 Front St. & 808/661-1178. Maggie Coulombe Finds A haute couture store with the unique designs of Maggie Coulombe in the midst of Lahaina. You’ll find Maggie’s latest couture, jersey, linen, pareu, and shoes, plus accessories, jewelry, purses, and a few surprises. 505 Front St. David Lee Galleries & 808/662-0696. www.maggiecoulombe.com. Old Lahaina Book Emporium What a bookstore! Chockablock with used books in stacks, on shelves, on counters, and in the aisles, this place is a browser’s dream.
Pity the Nation: Lebanon at War by Robert Fisk
Even the placidity of Tyre – or, as it was momentarily called by its tinpot rulers that autumn, the ‘People’s Republic of Tyre’ – had its deceptions. The lighthouse keeper had been without work for more than a year. True, the Lebanese government was still paying his salary. During the summer, he had been stitching dresses for his one-room shop round the corner where a faded sign proclaimed in white letters: ‘Haute Couture de Paris’. But there were no supplies of acetylene gas coming down from Beirut for his lighthouse, and besides, there were few ships. He was an approachable man who happily showed us the squat little red-painted lighthouse outside his front door. When we had climbed to the top, he made a point of telling us that it was possible to see the columns of the ancient Roman city just beneath the sea.
Greece Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
active transport: walking or cycling, Airbnb, capital controls, car-free, carbon footprint, credit crunch, haute couture, haute cuisine, illegal immigration, indoor plumbing, Kickstarter, low cost airline, low cost carrier, pension reform, period drama, sensible shoes, trade route, urban sprawl
Michele Falzone / Getty Images © Top Experiences Cutting-Edge Capital Life in Athens is a magnificent mash-up of the ancient and the contemporary. Beneath the majestic facades of venerable landmarks, the city teems with life and creativity. And Athenians love to get out and enjoy it all. Galleries and clubs hold the exhibitions, performances and installations of the city’s booming arts scene. Trendy restaurants and humble tavernas rustle up fine, fine fare. Ubiquitous cafes fill with stylin’ locals and moods run from punk rock to haute couture. Discos and bars abound…and swing deep into the night. Peter Adams / Getty Images © Top Experiences Santorini Sunsets There’s more to Santorini than sunsets, but this remarkable island, shaped by the fire of prehistoric eruptions, has made the celebratory sunset its own. On summer evenings the cliff-top towns of Fira and Oia are packed with visitors awed by the vast blood red canvas of the cliff face as the sun struts its stuff.
Frommer's England 2011: With Wales by Darwin Porter, Danforth Prince
airport security, British Empire, carbon footprint, centre right, Columbine, congestion charging, double helix, Edmond Halley, George Santayana, haute couture, Isaac Newton, James Watt: steam engine, Murano, Venice glass, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Ronald Reagan, Skype, Sloane Ranger, spinning jenny, Stephen Hawking, sustainable-tourism, the market place, University of East Anglia, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl, young professional
More than 200 24-hour telephone lines handle orders for tickets. Althorp is open to the public only from July 1, Diana’s birthday, to August 30. Diana was buried on an island in an artificial lake on the property. Visitors do not have access to the island but have a clear view of it across the lake. A museum celebrates Diana’s life, complete with schoolgirl letters, her stunning silk wedding dress, and some of her haute couture clothes. The museum also shows poignant films of her as a carefree child dancing in the gardens and later as a mother riding with her sons, William and Harry, plus videos that include the moving footage of her funeral. The museum makes no mention of Althorp 560 19_615386-ch16.indd 56019_615386-ch16.indd 560 8/24/10 2:14 PM8/24/10 2:14 PM A1(M) Sheffield 0 SCOTLAND Buxton Gainsborough Worksop M1 A61 Peak District Chesterfield National Park Bakewell A515 North Sea Irish ENGLAND Sea Area of WALES A516 Sherwood Forest Matlock Detail A57 Mansfield A52 London Lincoln A1 D ERBYS HIRE DERBYSHIRE E n g li A60 Ashbourne A38 A50 M1 A46 Ashbyde-la-Zouch Sleaford A606 Loughborough A46 A50 A17 Grantham A60 A38 LINCOLNSHIRE LINCO LNSHIRE A1 A52 East Midlands A515 A17 Nottingham A52 nel A15 Hucknall Derby han sh C Newarkon-Trent NOT T INGHA M S HIRE NOTTINGHA A52 100 mi 0 100 km Boston A52 Melton Mowbray A16 A607 Tamworth A1 Leicester M42 A15 Oakham A5 Spalding LEICESTERS LEICEST ERS HIRE Nuneaton Market Harborough M6 Coventry Rugby Warwick A423 Stamford A6 M1 A5 A47 A43 Peterborough A427 M45 A6 A1(M) NORTHAMPTONSHIRE NORTHA M PTONSHIRE Wellingborough A5 A43 Althorp WARWICKSHIRE WA RW ICKS HIRE A605 Corby Kettering A6 A508 CAMBRIDGESHIRE A141 A14 Huntingdon Northampton M40 B645 A14 A428 Sulgrave A5 M1 Cambridge BEDFORDSHIRE A6 A11 A10 A1 Milton Keynes A41 A428 Bedford A43 Banbury A44 A10 St.
Germany Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
Airbnb, Albert Einstein, bank run, Berlin Wall, bike sharing scheme, British Empire, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, double helix, eurozone crisis, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, haute couture, haute cuisine, Honoré de Balzac, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Johannes Kepler, Kickstarter, low cost airline, low cost carrier, Mikhail Gorbachev, New Urbanism, oil shale / tar sands, Peace of Westphalia, Peter Eisenman, post-work, ride hailing / ride sharing, Ronald Reagan, Ronald Reagan: Tear down this wall, sensible shoes, Skype, starchitect, trade route, upwardly mobile, urban planning, urban renewal, V2 rocket, white picket fence
The 1972 Olympic Games began as a cele bration of a new democratic Germany, but ended in tragedy when 17 people were killed in a terrorist hostage-taking incident. In 2006 the city won a brighter place in sporting history when it hosted the opening game of the FIFA World Cup. Today, Munich’s claim to being the ‘secret capital’ of Germany is alive and well. The city is recognised for its high living standards, with the most millionaires per capita in Germany after Hamburg, and for haute couture that rivals that of Paris and Milan. In 2008 the whole city took the summer off to celebrate the 850th birthday of this great metropolis. Sights Munich’s major sights cluster around the Altstadt, with the main museum district just north of the Residenz. However, it will take another day or two to explore bohemian Schwabing, the sprawling Englischer Garten and trendy Haidhausen to the east.
Germany by Andrea Schulte-Peevers
Albert Einstein, bank run, Berlin Wall, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, computer age, credit crunch, Donald Trump, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, Google Earth, haute couture, haute cuisine, Honoré de Balzac, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Johannes Kepler, Kickstarter, low cost airline, low cost carrier, Mikhail Gorbachev, New Urbanism, Peace of Westphalia, Peter Eisenman, place-making, post-work, ride hailing / ride sharing, sensible shoes, Skype, trade route, urban planning, urban renewal, V2 rocket, white picket fence
The 1972 Olympic Games began as a celebration of a new democratic Germany, but ended in tragedy when 17 people were killed in a terrorist hostage-taking incident. In 2006 the city won a brighter place in sporting history, when it hosted the opening game of the FIFA World Cup. Today, Munich’s claim to being the ‘secret capital’ of Germany is alive and well. The city is recognised for its high living standards, with the most millionaires per capita after Hamburg, and for a haute couture that rivals Paris and Milan. In 2008 the whole city took the summer off to celebrate the 850th birthday of this great metropolis. Return to beginning of chapter ORIENTATION The Hauptbahnhof (central train station) is less than 1km west of Marienplatz, the heart of the historic Altstadt (old town). North of Marienplatz is the Residenz (the former royal palace), crammed with museums and theatres, and Odeonsplatz with the landmark Theatinerkirche St Kajetan.